New Gear suggestions
So I'm trying to find my plan of action for my gear upgrades for the next year or so.
Right now I rock the Rebel XS, 17-85 usm lens, 100 mm usm macro, 100-300 usm tele, and just purchased the 50mm prime.
I mostly shoot landscapes/nature and snowboarding, but starting to try to venture into other areas. all done for fun. but I would like to be able to get my shots to where I could actually sell some on the side. So I do want a lens that I can shoot sports in - aka faster lens. While I do a lot of hiking, I don't mind bringing a few lenses with me so an all encompassing lens isn't a deal maker or breaker, albeit it would be nice.
The body I want to upgrade to in 2011 is the 50D (that can handle any lens that the Rebel does, right...its when i get into like the 7d where I run into some issues with the lower/mid lenses right?)
I am planning on probably selling
That said I don't know what lens to get so I'm looking for some advice. what I'm looking at:
1. Canon 17-40L (this is the one I've been planning on getting)
2. Canon 25-105L (just worried it might not be wide enough for me. so used to shooting at 17 most of the time)
3. Canon 10-22 (worried about image quality and speed not up to par with an L; but i'm limited in knowledge).
also have thought about the Sigma 10-20mm & Tokina 12-24MM, but again don't really know anything about how good those lenses are.
I will most likely sell the 17-85. good lens, but not a great lens. but if one of the ultra wide's like the canon 10-22 is really really good, i might just keep it.
What do you guys suggest? Thanks for answering all of my dumb questions
Right now I rock the Rebel XS, 17-85 usm lens, 100 mm usm macro, 100-300 usm tele, and just purchased the 50mm prime.
I mostly shoot landscapes/nature and snowboarding, but starting to try to venture into other areas. all done for fun. but I would like to be able to get my shots to where I could actually sell some on the side. So I do want a lens that I can shoot sports in - aka faster lens. While I do a lot of hiking, I don't mind bringing a few lenses with me so an all encompassing lens isn't a deal maker or breaker, albeit it would be nice.
The body I want to upgrade to in 2011 is the 50D (that can handle any lens that the Rebel does, right...its when i get into like the 7d where I run into some issues with the lower/mid lenses right?)
I am planning on probably selling
That said I don't know what lens to get so I'm looking for some advice. what I'm looking at:
1. Canon 17-40L (this is the one I've been planning on getting)
2. Canon 25-105L (just worried it might not be wide enough for me. so used to shooting at 17 most of the time)
3. Canon 10-22 (worried about image quality and speed not up to par with an L; but i'm limited in knowledge).
also have thought about the Sigma 10-20mm & Tokina 12-24MM, but again don't really know anything about how good those lenses are.
I will most likely sell the 17-85. good lens, but not a great lens. but if one of the ultra wide's like the canon 10-22 is really really good, i might just keep it.
What do you guys suggest? Thanks for answering all of my dumb questions
"An eye for an eye will make the whole world blind" - Gandhi
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
0
Comments
For snowboarding you might consider a fisheye lens. If you can position yourself just beyond a jump and lay down, looking upwards, a fisheye lens can yield some spectacular images from the unusual vantage and from the angular distortion of the fisheye lens.
A Canon 60D camera might also be a consideration since it has many of the features of the 50D but it includes a video acquisition capability.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
And Ziggy's suggestion about a fish eye is important, while I don't see them as much as the late 90's when I was reading snowboarding magazines all the time alternative sports like that and fish eye lenses seem to go hand and hand.
I'm not sure on these specifics so I'll leave it to someone who follows Canon closer but I know the 60D lost the metal frame, is it still weather resistant? Snow isn't as bad as rain since you can brush it off mostly but I would still worry about moisture getting into the camera.
Also for snowboarding action shots the 7D would be nice with its high FPS and better AF system.
I don't really care for video. I'm figuring 50D should (I hope) drop in price some time soon due to the 60D. haven't seen it yet so maybe not. but I recall seeing specs showing the 50D shot faster than the 60D which is more important to me than video.
7D would be killer to go with, but alas I am a college student so I can't aim that high...yet hah
and sorry for being ignorant - full frame? not sure what you mean.
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
The Canon 60D still has a cast and machined chassis, very much like the 50D. The 60D is cast aluminum alloy while the 50D is cast magnesium alloy. The 50D does have a more extensive cast chassis and I think that the 60D chassis does not extend as much into the hand grip.
The 50D and 60D are supposed to have similar weather sealing.
It is the dRebel series that has a stamped and welded stainless-steel chassis and limited seals.
The Canon 1D/1Ds series cameras have the most extensive weather seals and gaskets and a much better water-shed rating.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
The 50D has a higher frame-rate than the 60D, but the 50D frame rate seems to slow for many people at higher ISOs, while early reports of the 60D seem to indicate that the frame-rate is less affected by high-ISOs. In other respects the 50D and 60D have very similar responsiveness (shutter lag, image blackout, etc.)
The XS that you have and the 50D, 60D and 7D, all share a smaller image format than a film camera that uses 35mm film. Film cameras that use 35mm film are considered "full frame" 135 format. Likewise the Canon 1Ds and 5D series digital SLR cameras are all full frame format.
The dRebel, xxD and 7D are all considered crop 1.6x format cameras. As such they can support lenses which project a smaller image circle, such as the Canon EF-S lenses.
A side effect of the smaller imagers is that they offer a smaller angle-of-view per lens focal length.
(Just to really confuse you Canon also offers the 1D series cameras which have a crop 1.3x imager, but still require EF series lenses.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I think you mean the 1D MKIIN? I have 2 - Canon 1D MKII cameras and yes, they are still great cameras for many applications, including outdoor sports photography.
The 1D MKII/MKIIN have excellent AF systems, excellent weather seals and gaskets, very fast frame rates (8 fps) and and general responsiveness that still beats the 7D in many/most regards.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
I really like that suggestion on the samyang fisheye lens. I can get a reband of it for less than 300 bucks. not bad at all. I'm not really used to doing much manual focusing though. that kind of worries me a bit. is it pretty easy to focus?
I really like the 17-40, mainly because of price point (can't lie) and getting the fisheye while probably keeping my 17-85 so i have something for mid range stuff still. I should be able to afford that next month. does any one here use the 17-40L lens? is it good for sports? I know it can do some killer landscapes.
the 1dmk2n seems like it might be a bit too much for me at this point haha. I do want something that I can stick into my clik elite pack and hit up the trail. that thing seems to be pretty big.
new question: filters. I've heard that sighn-ray polarizers are the best. period. but the're like 210 bucks. if I go with like a hoya or tiffen polarizer that's like $50-100 for my gear, am I really compromising that much?
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
I'm pretty old, and I know stuff. (Not much I can use at parties however.
Yes, I think that the 60D images, straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) are demonstrably better in low-light and with high-ISOs. They are not night and day different and I suggest that careful attention in post-processing could make resulting images from either camera very similar. AF acquisition should be very similar and I submit that both the 50D and 60D have better imaging capabilities than they have consistent AF in low light. The 1D and 1Ds series cameras have demonstrably better AF in low light.
A competent flash with an AF assist light is extremely important with either the 50D or 60D camera in low light, when applicable.
Most fisheye lenses have extreme DOF and focus is either difficult or easy, depending upon your usage. On a camera with Live View and magnification I suggest setting a pre-focus when you can and then stay at that focus setting if possible. For AF applications it's common for at least the subject to be properly focussed.
I would not consider the Canon EF 17-40mm, f4L USM as a sports optic, but for snowboarding it might work fine in good light and if you are positioned properly. Check the EXIF of your existing images to see what focal length and f-setting you currently use. If you see that the 17-40mm "L" would work then it should deliver a bit better image quality. It is not very fast for low light work, for example.
The 1D MKII/MKIIN are a chunk and good glass is also fairly heavy. You have to decide if the qualities they offer are worthwhile. One negative of the 1D early series is that they use NiMH batteries which lose power in low temperatures. A common solution is to use a cable that allows tethered power of the camera from the battery which you would keep in your jacket near your body (to keep the battery warm).
Starting with the 1D MKIII (continuing with the 1D MKIV) Canon switched to a Lithium battery which is much less prone to low temperature power effects. The 1D MKIII is probably less desirable for your use just because the AF system is prone to some AF issues in strong back-lighting situations.
Stay away from the cheap filters like Tiffen, Canon, Sunpak, etc. Hoya HMC and above (Hoya Pro i.e.) are a pretty good value and very high quality. Marumi are pretty new and generally get good reviews but I have no experience and they are too new to recommend.
A very good place to shop for filters:
http://2filter.com/
You might also consider Nikon cameras like the D90, D7000 and D300/D300S. The D300 cameras in particular are very decent performers for your applications. While that would mean a change in lenses/accessories too, it is worth considering before you get any more vested in Canon.
Make no mistake, I am fully vested in the Canon system (and I love it and seem to get good results for my purposes) but you need to consider all options and what is best for "you" and for your applications.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
is an AF assist light something you'd purchase separate? I honestly don't shoot low light to often, and when I do its often on a tripod so a long exposure isn't an issue.
I usually shoot snowboarding with settings from ISO 100-400. usually at 200. aperture is 5-7ish usually and shutter speed as low as 500 and up to 1000. so not really anything to extreme. Why would you not consider it? Also note that at least 60% of my pics are still landscapes (my flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gloosle/) What would you consider to be the best wide angle lens for boarding/sports shots (as well as landscapes)?
checked out the website. not the easiest site to maneuver haha. Goot to know on tiffen - i had been placing them on the same tier as hoya (is b+w good?). I've known to avoid the other brands though. Marumi looks nice, bit cheaper than the hoya pros.
Yeah i know what you mean. I have heard killer things on the 300s; but I am pretty invested in canon already; I mean I do have 5 lenses and such (albeit some are more basic, but still); it will be a big move to switch to Nikon and I know canon better
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
Most folks also use their camera for social situations. A flash and appropriate flash modifier are always a good idea.
For tripod use, you're right, a flash is often not necessary for focus. I'll use Live View with magnification as a primary focus tool, augmented with a flashlight for critical focus if the ambient light isn't enough.
I can recommend the Sigma 530 DG Super flashes as a very competent alternative to the Canon flashes. They have more power than the Canon 430EX and similar features to the Canon 580EX, but the price is more like the 430EX. I have 4 - Sigma 5xx DG Super flashes and 1 - Canon 580EX, which I use primarily with an external high-voltage power supply for faster recycling when I need it. Otherwise I really do like the Sigma flashes. (The "DG Super" designation is significant.)
The Canon EF 16-35mm, f2.8L USM is probably a bit faster to focus than the EF 17-40mm, f4L USM. The larger aperture activates the extra sensitivity and accuracy of the center focus point.
The EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM is surprisingly fast to focus, but it's not weather sealed.
For landscapes you might consider a super-wide like the Canon EF-S 10-22mm, f3.5-f4.5 USM is surprisingly good, but again, I wouldn't consider it a sports lens because of the slower apertures and slower AF speeds. Some people do use that lens for sports so I'm not saying it won't work at all; it does work but it would not be a first choice for sports. It is also not weather sealed.
B+W make very good/excellent filters. I think you will find them more expensive than equivalent Hoya filters and I don't think you will find much optical difference. There is some build quality difference however.
I have pretty much standardized on the Hoya HMC filters and they work very well. Some lenses do not do well with "any" filters, but it is generally a situational problem. Always test lens/filter combinations so that you know how the lens performs with and without the filter.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
OH okay. so AF assist = flash then? the sigma's look pretty good. down the road I would love to get one, but its not very high on my wish list.
Canon Rebel XS
17-85 USM
100mm 2.8 macro lens
100-300mm usm
You can get a small wireless transmitter that has the AF assist that does not flash itself, but it controls other remote flashes, but it costs about as much as Canon 430EX or Sigma 530 DG Super. Either of those flashes include an AF assist light which helps to AF in dim light and they also project a pattern which is by design easier for the AF to latch onto than ambient light alone.
Try to AF on a bare, plain, painted wall, for instance. A camera alone has almost no detail on which to autofocus. Use a device with an AF assist light and the same camera will AF quickly because of the AF assist pattern. Human faces can be similar with a gently rolling off shape that's difficult for the AF to latch onto. Use a device with an AF assist and focus is fast and sure.
An external flash and appropriate modifier should be high on the list for any social events (birthdays, weddings, holidays, after snowboarding, etc.) but it can also help in sports shooting with faster AF acquisition speeds and a low FEC for fill lighting.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums