My wife shocked me last night...

roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
edited February 25, 2011 in Cameras
My wife told me last night that she wanted a camera to take pictures of the family around the house (primarily). So I responded that I'd look into a P&S for her, but nope, she wants good pictures and is interested in learning how to use a "real" camera.

/boggle

"Great" I say... I can teach you how to use my camera. "No good" she says - my camera intimidates her and is too heavy (1D4). Hmm... I can take the grip off of my old camera (40D) and that can be her camera. Except, of course, she's looking to take good shots indoors primarily and isn't going to want to deal with an external flash. I enjoyed my 40D a lot, but high-ISO is not its strong suit. Back into research mode I go!

So, I'm looking for a lightweight kit that's primarily for taking pictures of family indoors, generally w/o using flash.

The body is pretty easy once I focus on her requirements and not mine - Rebel T2i. Good high-ISO performance and lightweight (530g).

Where I'm having problems is the lens. Lightweight and fast glass don't play nice together. With the 1.6 crop body, it'll also need to be a fairly short focal length for shooting indoors.

Some of the options I've looked at so far:

1) Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM (645g) - Probably my default answer. Fantastic IQ, IS and fast (on the zoom scale). I'm worried about handling since the lens weighs more than the body. I've got a friend with this lens and an older Rebel, so I'll borrow that to see how they are together but feedback from those (particularly women) that use the combination together would be great.

2) Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM (650g) - Nice focal length on a 1.6 crop, fast but about the same weight issue as (1). I'll work with my wife to figure out what FoV she likes and whether she'd prefer a zoom. I started looking at this one on the theory that it would be lighter than (1), but it's clearly not.

This one does have the bonus of "sharing" for me and my 1D4 :D

3) Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM (430g) - Good focal length, fast and the lens is actually lighter than the body. This one is tempting, but reviews are a bit mixed - although probably not anymore mixed than similar Canon lenses...

4) Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 (270g) - Seems to be the best of the fast, non-L primes in the 20 - 35mm range. I'm really not a fan of non-USM lenses though...

5) Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II USM (640g) - Wasn't really considering this one, but given the weight of (1) and (2) plus the fact that I already own this one, it's worth considering. Definitely a more limited zoom range than (1) and won't be as sharp and no IS. Probably not the right answer for my wife.

6) Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM (475g) - Not normally considered an indoor lens, but given the high ISO performance of the T2i, it's worth tossing on the list. If (1) handles ok on the T2i, then it should be a better fit.

Appreciate any experiences or recommendations.

Jay
«1

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,078 moderator
    edited December 13, 2010
    The Canon T2i and EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM would make a great combination, but available light photography is generally not conducive to the best results.

    Please tell your wife that she really "needs" to consider:
    • A proper flash and flash modifier.
    • A great lens, like the 17-55mm, f2.8 above.
    • A suitable body. The T2i is a very nice body and could probably do nicely for her, but the 40D does have better AF.

    The flash is an important consideration because available light is usually either the wrong white balance, insufficiently bright enough to offer proper exposure without highest ISOs, insufficiently strong enough to allow rapid and precise AF, or some combination of the above.

    A flash with an AF assist light can help to solve all of the above problems and issues. The flash can be mounted atop the camera, so it doesn't have to be unnecessarily big and bulky. (My Canon 1D series with a flash bracket and tall modifier and big glass is very big and bulky, but it yields great results. clap.gif)

    With both the T2i and the 40D the center AF point is sensitive to lenses of f2.8 aperture and larger and it is both higher accuracy and faster with that type of lens. The 17-55mm is also very contrasty making AF especially quick compared to some other lenses.

    Please show your wife these images and tell her that in order to get these types of quality an external flash and flash modifier plus a good lens are the key ingredients for success. (I believe that all of the following are using either a Canon XT/350D or 40D and a single flash with either of 2 flash modifiers.):

    962263171_H4w8q-O.jpg

    1004339042_F2ZPN-O.jpg

    912822732_rdkDH-O.jpg

    884620797_DGEcP-O.jpg

    577453135_oFxDv-O.jpg

    488158135_nKqPt-O.jpg

    143666541_gRvQT-O.jpg
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited December 13, 2010
    without an external flash, you need bare minimum of noise free 1600 ISO...more like 3200 though. Is the T2i really capable of that? I am not sure..hahah..I don't wnat you to get in trouble with your wife.
    D700, D600
    14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
    85 and 50 1.4
    45 PC and sb910 x2
    http://www.danielkimphotography.com
  • paddler4paddler4 Registered Users Posts: 976 Major grins
    edited December 13, 2010
    Ziggy wrote:

    The flash is an important consideration because available light is usually either the wrong white balance, insufficiently bright enough to offer proper exposure without highest ISOs, insufficiently strong enough to allow rapid and precise AF, or some combination of the above.

    I have nowhere nearly Ziggy's expertise, but I would add another reason: without flash, the light indoors is often at the wrong angle, which can cause problems like having faces shadowed, or just lacking highlights.

    I find that I can get pretty good indoor shots (not on a par with Ziggy's, but hey) with a very simple rig: a small flash (I use a 430 EXII) mounted on the camera, with a stofen omnibounce and a Demb Flip-It for a bounce card. With that, you don't need expensive, fast glass. I do most of mine (on a crop sensor camera) with a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8, which works fine, since for candid shots I generally use f/4.5 or so. I do have a bracket, but I often don't use it.
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    rolette wrote: »
    My wife told me last night that she wanted a camera to take pictures of the family around the house (primarily). So I responded that I'd look into a P&S for her, but nope, she wants good pictures and is interested in learning how to use a "real" camera.

    /boggle

    "Great" I say... I can teach you how to use my camera. "No good" she says - my camera intimidates her and is too heavy (1D4). Hmm... I can take the grip off of my old camera (40D) and that can be her camera. Except, of course, she's looking to take good shots indoors primarily and isn't going to want to deal with an external flash. I enjoyed my 40D a lot, but high-ISO is not its strong suit. Back into research mode I go!

    So, I'm looking for a lightweight kit that's primarily for taking pictures of family indoors, generally w/o using flash.

    The body is pretty easy once I focus on her requirements and not mine - Rebel T2i. Good high-ISO performance and lightweight (530g).

    Where I'm having problems is the lens. Lightweight and fast glass don't play nice together. With the 1.6 crop body, it'll also need to be a fairly short focal length for shooting indoors.

    Some of the options I've looked at so far:

    1) Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM (645g) - Probably my default answer. Fantastic IQ, IS and fast (on the zoom scale). I'm worried about handling since the lens weighs more than the body. I've got a friend with this lens and an older Rebel, so I'll borrow that to see how they are together but feedback from those (particularly women) that use the combination together would be great.

    2) Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM (650g) - Nice focal length on a 1.6 crop, fast but about the same weight issue as (1). I'll work with my wife to figure out what FoV she likes and whether she'd prefer a zoom. I started looking at this one on the theory that it would be lighter than (1), but it's clearly not.

    This one does have the bonus of "sharing" for me and my 1D4 :D

    3) Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM (430g) - Good focal length, fast and the lens is actually lighter than the body. This one is tempting, but reviews are a bit mixed - although probably not anymore mixed than similar Canon lenses...

    4) Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 (270g) - Seems to be the best of the fast, non-L primes in the 20 - 35mm range. I'm really not a fan of non-USM lenses though...

    5) Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II USM (640g) - Wasn't really considering this one, but given the weight of (1) and (2) plus the fact that I already own this one, it's worth considering. Definitely a more limited zoom range than (1) and won't be as sharp and no IS. Probably not the right answer for my wife.

    6) Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM (475g) - Not normally considered an indoor lens, but given the high ISO performance of the T2i, it's worth tossing on the list. If (1) handles ok on the T2i, then it should be a better fit.

    Appreciate any experiences or recommendations.

    Jay

    So no: External flash. I take it she's considering on-board flash? That can be achieved and you can show her how, right? dialing the flash back. She's going to HAVE to use flash if she'd like some control, plus that might keep her off the roof of the ISO issue/s.

    Do the same thing you would do when deciding lenses. Look at the photos she's been taking and figure out what focal range she seems to prefer!
    tom wise
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,078 moderator
    edited December 14, 2010
    I should add that a correct camera strap can make all the difference between comfort and chore. I use wide neoprene camera straps because they absorb shock so much better than the stock and standard manufacturer straps. Make sure she tries the camera only after fitting it with a neoprene strap and she will be more likely to accept both camera and external flash.

    The Sigma EF 530 DG Super flashes are lighter than the Canon flashes of the same power class and less expensive too. I find them perfectly competent, even for professional use. Just make sure to use an appropriate flash modifier.

    If the Canon EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM is too heavy try a Tamron 17-50mm, f2.8 XR Di-II LD SP ZL Aspherical (IF). It is considerably lighter, still very good image quality, and considerably less expensive too.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    ziggy53 wrote: »
    The Canon T2i and EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM would make a great combination, but available light photography is generally not conducive to the best results.

    Please tell your wife that she really "needs" to consider:
    • A proper flash and flash modifier.
    • A great lens, like the 17-55mm, f2.8 above.
    • A suitable body. The T2i is a very nice body and could probably do nicely for her, but the 40D does have better AF.
    The flash is an important consideration because available light is usually either the wrong white balance, insufficiently bright enough to offer proper exposure without highest ISOs, insufficiently strong enough to allow rapid and precise AF, or some combination of the above.

    A flash with an AF assist light can help to solve all of the above problems and issues. The flash can be mounted atop the camera, so it doesn't have to be unnecessarily big and bulky. (My Canon 1D series with a flash bracket and tall modifier and big glass is very big and bulky, but it yields great results. clap.gif)

    With both the T2i and the 40D the center AF point is sensitive to lenses of f2.8 aperture and larger and it is both higher accuracy and faster with that type of lens. The 17-55mm is also very contrasty making AF especially quick compared to some other lenses.

    Hi Ziggy,

    Good point about the flash. I'll have to noodle on this one some... There is a lot for her to learn and I don't want to kill her new found interest in photography by overwhelming her. Initially I'll probably park her in Av mode until she gets the basics down. No green boxes allowed :D

    She already understands at least some of the ideas behind bounce flash because she's seen me do it and had to listen to my explanations when she asked why the flash wasn't pointed at the subject.

    I'll take a look back through my shots from Thanksgiving. While I pretty much always used an external flash on my 40D when indoors, I've been leaning heavily on high-ISO performance of my 1D4 since I got it. Easy enough to review my settings and see what it is like in my house.

    Jay
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    Have you considered the Tamron 17-50? It's a great lens for the money, lightweight and responsive (not as responsive as the Canon 17-55is, but the Mk I is about half the price, too!). ETA: Whoops -just realised ZIggy had already mentioned it! Therefore, consider this a +1 on the suggestion.... :D

    I happily used that and a 420ex (ETTL only) and 430ex (ETTL or manual) flash on an XSi, the body of which is roughly the same as the T series. If she's really bothered by the weight and is willing to live with bouncy only, there's always the little 270 flash. They're kinda cute, actually and, while not a "full-featured" flash that can bounce and swivel, it is a lightweight way of boosting the popup and avoiding the "on-camera flash" look since it will bounce.....
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    angevin1 wrote: »
    So no: External flash. I take it she's considering on-board flash? That can be achieved and you can show her how, right? dialing the flash back. She's going to HAVE to use flash if she'd like some control, plus that might keep her off the roof of the ISO issue/s.

    Oh, she's not thinking about flash at all - and I don't mean that she's against it. I mean she's given it no thought.

    She does understand that direct flash generally results in P&S quality photos. She's heard me discuss why I use bounce flash, but I haven't ever discussed the concept of FEC with her.

    This is one of those things I'm going to work her up to as she learns. No doubt she'll get there, but don't want to bury her in the details (yet).
    Do the same thing you would do when deciding lenses. Look at the photos she's been taking and figure out what focal range she seems to prefer!

    She's mostly been leaving that up to me the last few years, so I'm going to put a camera in her hands and walk her through some experiments to see what she thinks she likes. With indoor photography, we aren't likely to get too far off the mark. The focal ranges are definitely more bounded.

    Thanks,
    Jay
  • roakeyroakey Registered Users Posts: 81 Big grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    rolette wrote: »
    ...and I don't want to kill her new found interest in photography by overwhelming her.
    Of everything in this note, this is the most key point. I've been here and done this, and let me take on the human side of your question. Don't push your mindset on her. Green box is OK until she doesn't like her pictures and THEN show her stuff one thing at a time. You've got a lot of experience and take a lot of stuff you know for granted. Allow her to make mistakes and then teach her how to correct them.

    And my take on her requirements (small, not intimidating, etc.) as well as the distinct possibility of her becoming frustrated and dropping the whole thing:a Canon SX30 or some other bridge camera. Even swapping lenses is going to seem like a PITA to her starting out.

    If you want her to get hooked, KISS initially. A bridge camera will allow her to learn most everything a SLR can do but in a less intimidating package. And there's always the green box.

    Roak

    Ps. And for full disclosure, no, I wasn't successful.
    [email]roakeyatunderctekdotcom[/email]
    <== Mighty Murphy, the wonder Bouv!
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    ziggy53 wrote: »
    I should add that a correct camera strap can make all the difference between comfort and chore. I use wide neoprene camera straps because they absorb shock so much better than the stock and standard manufacturer straps. Make sure she tries the camera only after fitting it with a neoprene strap and she will be more likely to accept both camera and external flash.

    Good idea! I'll put my SmugMug strap on it. Very comfy, but I've moved on to a Luma Loop instead of a traditional around-the-neck strap.
    The Sigma EF 530 DG Super flashes are lighter than the Canon flashes of the same power class and less expensive too. I find them perfectly competent, even for professional use. Just make sure to use an appropriate flash modifier.

    Will definitely check those out, thanks.
    If the Canon EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM is too heavy try a Tamron 17-50mm, f2.8 XR Di-II LD SP ZL Aspherical (IF). It is considerably lighter, still very good image quality, and considerably less expensive too.

    Thanks. Not overly familiar with 3rd party lenses. I'll take a look.

    Jay
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    richy wrote: »
    Does it have to be canon? mft and that f0.95 noktor would be an interesting combo, apparently its sharp when 'stopped down' to 1.4 (i know lol), or a nikon d700 (or a d7000?). Otherwise a t2i or perhaps a 5d original?

    The lens or the body? I'm sticking to Canon for the body so she can use my lenses when/if she wants to. For the lens, I'm more flexible assuming good quality product.
    Available light shooting is a demanding technique, both financially and in skill. It can produce awesome results and there are pluses but its a world where f1.4 is entry level and 2k lenses are the norm. It is dark, insanely dark, inside. You don't realise it until you start paying attention to shutter speeds. A rough rule of thumb is that 1/60 stops enough subject motion in most cases for an immobile portrait setup. You can get away with lower but thats a safe starting point. I was shooting some dancers in a ballroom with huge windows and sun streaming in and I think I was somewhere around 1/10 @ f4 @ 2000 iso before I switched lenses. I really needed to be about 4.5 ish stops higher shutter speed, 1/200 ish would have been nice but that would have required something like f1.2@3200 iso (give or take).
    The low light also affects focussing so an external flash can assist in the focussing but otherwise I would be looking at 2.0 and faster lenses, ideally the L glass which is a mix of 1.4 and 1.2 in the most useful ranges for your wife but again thats serious money. Otherwise she will be spending a lot of time around 3200 iso and higher.
    Apologies if this comes across as discouraging, its just meant to be a friendly word to the wise, I've played this game and its both expensive and difficult, theres very few photons in a room and if you want critically sharp pictures you often have to stop down a fast prime which means starting even faster.

    No worries, I appreciate the feedback. For what she wants to do, she's not as concerned (yet) about "critically sharp" - at least in the sense that it normally gets used in photography forums. Right now she wants memories and a path for her to improve over time.

    I don't even hesitate to use ISO 3200 on my 1D4. Of course, that's not a T2i and I mostly shoot sports so it is a different ballgame
    The 17-55 is 2.8 might do the job, its probably the best zoom you could get other than perhaps the 16-35 2.8. Both of those are still 2 stops slower than a 1.4 which means a quarter of the light gets in and the AF has a quarter of the light to work with which sucks at times.
    From what I remember Ziggy (and improbably wrong) is a product photographer by day amongst all the other types of photography (and interweb superhero by night)? I am sure he knows more about lighting than most of us will ever know and it shows in the subtle use in his shots. Flash can be tamed. Perhaps your wife could try using one of your flashes and compare and contrast against not using one in a semi controlled shoot and see what she likes best?
    Good luck!

    She's seen the difference between my flash and non-flash shots, so she's familiar with the different looks. I'm not scared of flash personally, though I'm far from an expert with it. It's all going to come down to what she's comfortable picking up and using regularly.

    As much as possible, I'm trying to set her up to enjoy using the camera and continuing her interest. I'd love to be able to share my love of photography with her beyond the final output and "humoring me" when I prattle on about it.

    Jay
  • paddler4paddler4 Registered Users Posts: 976 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    She's heard me discuss why I use bounce flash, but I haven't ever discussed the concept of FEC with her.

    you don't need to, to start. An E-TTL flash will get it right with bounce flash a lot of the time with no FEC.
  • studio1972studio1972 Registered Users Posts: 249 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    Before buying a new camera, try the sigma 30mm 1.4 on the 40D, there isn't much between the 40D and T2i in low light terms anyway, and the 40D is a much better camera all round (except for video of course).
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    divamum wrote: »
    Have you considered the Tamron 17-50? It's a great lens for the money, lightweight and responsive (not as responsive as the Canon 17-55is, but the Mk I is about half the price, too!). ETA: Whoops -just realised ZIggy had already mentioned it! Therefore, consider this a +1 on the suggestion.... :D

    So noted thumb.gif
    I happily used that and a 420ex (ETTL only) and 430ex (ETTL or manual) flash on an XSi, the body of which is roughly the same as the T series. If she's really bothered by the weight and is willing to live with bouncy only, there's always the little 270 flash. They're kinda cute, actually and, while not a "full-featured" flash that can bounce and swivel, it is a lightweight way of boosting the popup and avoiding the "on-camera flash" look since it will bounce.....

    I didn't realize the 270 would bounce. That's small and light enough that it might work for her. My 580 weighs almost as much as the body, so won't fit her current theory about how she wants to use the camera.

    Good suggestion, thanks!

    Jay
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    roakey wrote: »
    Of everything in this note, this is the most key point. I've been here and done this, and let me take on the human side of your question. Don't push your mindset on her. Green box is OK until she doesn't like her pictures and THEN show her stuff one thing at a time. You've got a lot of experience and take a lot of stuff you know for granted. Allow her to make mistakes and then teach her how to correct them.

    Yep, that's absolutely my main focus.
    And my take on her requirements (small, not intimidating, etc.) as well as the distinct possibility of her becoming frustrated and dropping the whole thing:a Canon SX30 or some other bridge camera. Even swapping lenses is going to seem like a PITA to her starting out.

    If you want her to get hooked, KISS initially. A bridge camera will allow her to learn most everything a SLR can do but in a less intimidating package. And there's always the green box.

    I'll ask her about that. She says she wants to learn and didn't want a P&S, but I didn't think about a bridge camera.

    Jay
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2010
    studio1972 wrote: »
    Before buying a new camera, try the sigma 30mm 1.4 on the 40D, there isn't much between the 40D and T2i in low light terms anyway, and the 40D is a much better camera all round (except for video of course).

    Are you sure about the T2i low-light performance vs. the 40D? 40D only goes up to ISO 1600 (3200 in expansion mode) vs. 6400 native for the T2i...
  • PhotoskipperPhotoskipper Registered Users Posts: 453 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    WTD1123.gif











    Just joking
    Photoskipper
    flickr.com/photos/photoskipper/
  • studio1972studio1972 Registered Users Posts: 249 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    rolette wrote: »
    Are you sure about the T2i low-light performance vs. the 40D? 40D only goes up to ISO 1600 (3200 in expansion mode) vs. 6400 native for the T2i...

    If you are only interested in how high ISO you can set the camera to, then the T2i wins of course, but if the actual image quality matters to you, then it is much closer. I have owned a 40d and still own a 450d, 550d, 5d and 5d MkII.

    From my experience there isn't much difference between all the crop sensor cameras, it seems like most of the advances are in higher megapixels rather than low light performance. As a rule of thumb I am happy to use all of them up to ISO800 and occasionally 1600. The 5D and 5D MkII are better in low light and I use the MkII at ISO3200 quite often.

    Had a quick google regarding the 40d vs 7d (same sensor as T2i/550d) and tests seem to show the 7d maybe 1 stop better, but that this is achieved with stronger in-camera noise reduction, which obviously limits the application of noise reduction in post.
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    haha!
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    studio1972 wrote: »
    If you are only interested in how high ISO you can set the camera to, then the T2i wins of course, but if the actual image quality matters to you, then it is much closer. I have owned a 40d and still own a 450d, 550d, 5d and 5d MkII.

    From my experience there isn't much difference between all the crop sensor cameras, it seems like most of the advances are in higher megapixels rather than low light performance. As a rule of thumb I am happy to use all of them up to ISO800 and occasionally 1600. The 5D and 5D MkII are better in low light and I use the MkII at ISO3200 quite often.

    Had a quick google regarding the 40d vs 7d (same sensor as T2i/550d) and tests seem to show the 7d maybe 1 stop better, but that this is achieved with stronger in-camera noise reduction, which obviously limits the application of noise reduction in post.

    I'm not looking for just higher numbers, but more what it implies. The usual review sources didn't have any direct comparisons between the T2i and the 40D (or even the 50D). They compare noise handling against other cameras in the same class. Different generation, different class of camera == limited head-to-head IQ data.

    I forgot that the more amazing thing about the sensor was that they were able to improve noise handling while simultaneously increasing the resolution.

    I really appreciate the comparison since you have both bodies. 40D I know well. Rebels I only have indirect experience with (friends, mom, etc.) and none of them have the current generation.
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    Things took an interesting turn last night.

    I took the grip off of my 40D and put a my 16-35 f/2.8 on it since it weighs pretty much the same as the 17-55 f/2.8. Handed it to my wife to hold and she was much happier about the size and weight of the whole thing.

    I also borrowed my friends Rebel + 17-55 f/2.8 so she could try that out.

    She really didn't like the handling of the Rebel. The 40D fit her hands much better. She also really liked the 17-55 lens. Showed her the effect of IS and then she really liked that.

    We started talking through the issues of shooting indoors in low-light, flashes, etc. She asked me what I meant by "P&S look", so I popped the on-board flash up and took a picture of her. She mostly just shrugged.

    Then I put my external flash on and took a bounce flash shot and that sealed the deal other than the size. She's looking at the 580 on top of the camera and it looks huge. I showed her a picture of the 270 (thanks divamum!) and that was it.

    It looks like we'll end up with her using my 40D + a new lens (17-55 f/2.8) and a new flash (270ex).

    Oh, I put my SM strap back on the 40D but even though it is comfortable, she doesn't like neck straps. She wants one like I use (Luma Loop).

    Thanks much for all the feedback folks. It's been very helpful.

    Jay
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,078 moderator
    edited December 15, 2010
    Excellent. clap.gif
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • studio1972studio1972 Registered Users Posts: 249 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    Does the 270 rotate upwards for bouncing? Thought you needed the 430 for that?
  • studio1972studio1972 Registered Users Posts: 249 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    richy wrote: »
    Very true, I think whats changed over the past few generations of canon crops is not the amount of noise so much but the impact of the noise, the smaller pixels meaning the noise is less visible for the same size print. I do find the 7d to be great for how 'natural' the noise looks, theres no pattern to it like there can be with the 5d2, however I recall with the 7d some maze pattern issues with certain raw convertors (i personally had the issue with lr2) not sure if the rebel or 60d also suffers from the same thing. Basically areas of solid colour would have a maze patttern at pixel level.

    Hopefully the next generation of crop sensors should be a big improvement. After all the 1D4 has a fairly high pixel density and is apparently better than the 5D2 in low light.
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    studio1972 wrote: »
    Does the 270 rotate upwards for bouncing? Thought you needed the 430 for that?

    Yes, you can bounce with the 270. It won't swivel, but it does rotate up for bounce.
  • studio1972studio1972 Registered Users Posts: 249 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2010
    rolette wrote: »
    Yes, you can bounce with the 270. It won't swivel, but it does rotate up for bounce.

    Cool, that's handy to know thumb.gif
  • Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
    edited December 17, 2010
    Nobody mentions the Canon 28mm f/1.8 USM?
    “To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
    ― Edward Weston
  • jdorseydesignjdorseydesign Registered Users Posts: 161 Major grins
    edited December 17, 2010
    rolette wrote: »
    Yes, you can bounce with the 270. It won't swivel, but it does rotate up for bounce.

    Without the swivel you won't be able to take a portrait oriented shot with bounce flash... unless you bounce it off a white wall instead of a ceiling.
    J Dorsey Design Photography • jdorseydesign.com • Facebook Fan/Friend • Twitter @bartdorsey
  • rpcrowerpcrowe Registered Users Posts: 733 Major grins
    edited December 18, 2010
    I would stay away from the 270EX flash...
    I am a firm believer in using flash but, not the built-in flash; rather a good hotshoe flash with a good diffuser/reflector. My favorite diffuser/reflector is the Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro ( www.dembflashproducts.com )

    A good hotshoe flash with a diffuser/reflector, properly used, will normally produce better imagery than available light alone.

    When talking about available light, most photographers simply talk about the quantity of that light and assume that if you have a fast enough lens and a camera which will function well at a high ISO; everything will be great.

    This is not usually the case. IMO, many times the quality of available lighting provides terrible imagery. The photographer has control of his flash and, when properly used, flash illuminated images usually look better than those shot with available light.
  • roletterolette Registered Users Posts: 223 Major grins
    edited December 20, 2010
    Without the swivel you won't be able to take a portrait oriented shot with bounce flash... unless you bounce it off a white wall instead of a ceiling.

    Yep. Already explained that one to my wife after the flash came in (gotta love Amazon Prime!) and she started playing with it.

    It's a reasonable trade off vs. the weight of a bounce + swivel flash. I have a 580ex II, so this way she can have the lightweight flash most of the time and can put my bigger flash on when she needs the swivel.
Sign In or Register to comment.