L bracket question
mrcoons
Registered Users Posts: 653 Major grins
I'd like to add an L bracket for my 7D and cannot figure out how the L bracket attaches to the head. My head is a Manfrotto 486RC2 and I'd like to mount a Kirk or RRS L bracket to it. What else to I need to do this or will it mount onto the quick release plate? Thanks.
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The one caution I've heard about, but have no direct experience with, is that all your brackets and lens rails should be from one manufacturer if you wish to use a QR clamp since the Arca-Swiss "standard" is sloppy enough that each manufacturer is slightly different so that on one bracket the quick clamp may be too tight and on another too loose.
...but I've just heard this. I have a screw-type clamp, so I it doesn't affect me.
Roak
Ps I have RRS' B7D-L L bracket for my 7D and it's very nice. I have the 2010 model, which is gold filled. I think the 2011 model is diamond-studded. At least I think that's the case to justify the price! In all seriousness, there's an awful lot of machining that the plates require, especially on the 7D to keep the side connections accessible.
<== Mighty Murphy, the wonder Bouv!
However, the note above is good that Manfrotto typically uses a different type of clamp than the arca-swiss style you get with Kirk or RSS.
As an aside, I've an Acratech head and both RSS and Kirk brackets (depending on the camera) and those work just fine. Never heard about sticking to one manufacturer before.
Usually, there is a arca standard quick release plate is attached as part of the L bracket. So if your ball head is compatible with arca standard, then you can use the L-bracket directly just as another quick release plate. However, if your ball head is not arca-standard compatible, say, the Gitzo ball heads are not arca compatible, then you might need to purchase a arca adapter from the manufacturer for the use of arca compatible release plates.
Moreover, acratech has a arca-standard compatible universal L-bracket can fit for various cameras. So, instead of using a model specific L-plate, you may consider to use a universal one such that you don't need to buy another L-bracket when camera model is changed.
http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=71
PC-E 24, SB-700, SB-600, Sony A55, TC-20E III
Sigma 500mm f4.5, Gitzo GT3530LS+GH2780QR
In any case, I purchased the 7D L-Plate from RRS along with their B2 LR II clamp. It was very difficult to remove the stock Manfrotto clamp assembly from the ballhead, as it was installed at the factory with copious amounts of threadlock. It was so difficult and the risk of damage high enough that, assuming your clamp is installed the same, I would suggest you consider purchasing a new ballhead rather than try to convert your current one. BTW, this is coming from someone who is building their own airplane and is no stranger to metalwork and tools.
The B2 LR II clamp was neccessary because once the stock clamp was removed from the 488RC2, I was left with a non-removeable 3/8"-16 male stud at the end of the post exiting the ball (post and threads are one piece). Be very cautious about people suggesting which clamp to purchase as the clamp mounting methods can be different for various ballheads even within the Manfrotto family.
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Thanks Brad. The new ball head might be the wiser choice I think. I can move this ball head to the older tripod I carry in the car. The increase in expense may slow the process down some though!
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I think you're looking at a new Arca-Swiss compatible clamp/shoe at minimum, or an entire Arca-Swiss ballhead. Serendipitously, just the other day a friend sent me a pointer to an excellent writeup on how to change your clamp. As PilotBrad alluded to, it's not for the faint of heart.
Roak
<== Mighty Murphy, the wonder Bouv!
After heating the parts with a heat gun, although probably not hot enough, I wrapped the post in some thick rubber hose and grabbed it with a large set of pliers (while the clamp was in a vise). It took all my strength to break the connection between the post and clamp, and the post ended up getting slightly damaged by the pliers which cut through the hose due to the amount of force that was needed.
I was able to chuck the post in my drill-press and smooth out the marks then refinish it with some primer and lacquer, but it took a while to get all this done. It can be done, but be prepared if you attempt this yourself.
Edit: For clarity sake, here is a picture (from ManfrottoSpares.com) of the ballhead post assembly. As you can see, post and threads which attach the clamp are one solid piece (which is also threaded into the ball). It's this post that is difficult to grip.
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Roak
<== Mighty Murphy, the wonder Bouv!