Raw and Jpeg
canon400d
Banned Posts: 2,826 Major grins
I am a wee bit confused with this and if anyone can give me some advice I would really appreciate it.
I have upgraded from a 40 to a 7D and I have always shot Raw. I attend a lot of motor rallies and take around 1500 images per shoot. Following my upgrade I have had to get a couple of 8GB cards because I can only get around 300 images on each card following my upgrade because of the 18mp.
Whilst at the rallies all the guys standing next to me say they never shoot Raw and shoot Jpeg.
When I return home and upload the images on the computer they go into Digital Photo Professional and come out as Jpegs. If need be I will probably tweak them in CS4 in ACR and then into Photoshop. In actual fact I never use a corresponding CR2 image and this is where I am confused. In actual fact after I have completed everything I delete the folder with all the CR2 images because of the room on my external drives. Should I be keeping these CR2 images? I find it difficult and time consuming to look at a CR2 image because I have to right click and open it to see what it is. Are all the guys telling me not to use Raw correct? As I say I would like a simple explanation to all this as I am attending a big rally on Sunday.
Cheers
Bob
I have upgraded from a 40 to a 7D and I have always shot Raw. I attend a lot of motor rallies and take around 1500 images per shoot. Following my upgrade I have had to get a couple of 8GB cards because I can only get around 300 images on each card following my upgrade because of the 18mp.
Whilst at the rallies all the guys standing next to me say they never shoot Raw and shoot Jpeg.
When I return home and upload the images on the computer they go into Digital Photo Professional and come out as Jpegs. If need be I will probably tweak them in CS4 in ACR and then into Photoshop. In actual fact I never use a corresponding CR2 image and this is where I am confused. In actual fact after I have completed everything I delete the folder with all the CR2 images because of the room on my external drives. Should I be keeping these CR2 images? I find it difficult and time consuming to look at a CR2 image because I have to right click and open it to see what it is. Are all the guys telling me not to use Raw correct? As I say I would like a simple explanation to all this as I am attending a big rally on Sunday.
Cheers
Bob
0
Comments
Yes you can live with shooting only Jpeg just fine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21695902@N06/
http://500px.com/Shockey
alloutdoor.smugmug.com
http://aoboudoirboise.smugmug.com/
Thanks for your reply. What I would like to know exactly is it better to shoot Raw or Jpeg and the reasons why.
Cheers
Bob
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21695902@N06/
http://500px.com/Shockey
alloutdoor.smugmug.com
http://aoboudoirboise.smugmug.com/
If not to stir then what's a pot for? j/k!
besides, He is from Scotland after all!
Zoomer is dead on as far as thousands of threads and discussions on this very topic. The thing I think I read recently that I liked best was from One of our Moderators; Pathfinder. He said it was nice to have the RAW files because as the technology improved he could go back and further adjust older images and get results he couldn't get at the time they were taken. I thought that was an especially good reason to keep RAW files.
The thing is on RAW versus Jpeg. Sometimes JPEG will do just fine and sometimes you might be better served to keep the RAW file. I like having RAW's in case I missed a flaw in my photo the first time.
Thanks for that. As far as Zoomer is concerned he can think what he wants and if he has read the 2000 posts it hasn't done him much good. I wish I had the time.
I will obviously have to rely on Pathfinder to explain things to me in a civil manner.
If I am not gaining anything by shooting raw I have obviuosly spent a lot of money on extra cards where I needn't have.
Cheers
Bob
There's no right answer to you question because no one always shoots
under the same conditions. On a clear, bright, sunny day where you are
shooting multiple shots of the same type of image, taking jpegs only would
most probably be the best way to go. You really won't need the tweaks
that you can do with a RAW file.
Change the conditions, though, and you may want to shoot RAW because
you can expect to make corrections in white balance or exposure.
Base your decision on your own history. If you are not making many
adjustments to your RAW files (other than cropping and basic editing),
go jpeg and get more on your SD card.
Personally, I shoot RAW sometimes, RAW plus jpeg sometimes, and only
jpeg sometimes. It's easy to jump to the menu and make the change on
the fly. Sometimes I change the capture format during a shoot.
http://tonycooper.smugmug.com/
Its all about rendering the print (the major job photography entails). This piece while a bit long is a must read:http://wwwimages.adobe.com/www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/family/prophotographer/pdfs/pscs3_renderprint.pdf
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
However when camera gets it wrong it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to correct the whitepoint and levels in the jpeg image without blowing out bright parts of the image or loosing shadow detail.
When you shoot raw you can in, for example, lightroom or photoshop use the whitepoint and levels the camera choose as the are included in the metadata in the raw file. If the colors and levels don't look right then you have quite a bit of room change them and correct the image without blowing out highlights or loosing shadow detail.
If when you process your raw images all you do is use the "as shot" whitepoint and don't change the levels and the results are satisfactory, then shooting raw isn't buying you much.
http://www.danalphotos.com
http://www.pluralsight.com
http://twitter.com/d114
Your camera processes your RAW files for you automatically when you shoot straight out of the camera jpgs, and then discards the RAW file. For some images, shot in low contrast situations, this may be quite ok. But your camera with its little computer built into it is not capable of the RAW processing one CAN do with a good desk top computer, Adobe Camera Raw, and some image editing expertise.
Like the posters have said, their is no single all the time right answer in the Raw vs jpg arguments. You can find thousands of links on the web about this discussion. It all comes down to what your needs and desires are. Shoot jpgs and you get your files quickly and easily, and they store in a smaller space. They MAY not be as good as the files you can create from a Raw file if you have the desire and the dedication to do that. But they will be better than many folks with no knowledge or understanding of RAW processing will create. Straight out of the camera jpgs are much less intolerant of exposure errors than RAW. Good jpgs require you to be within 1/3 to 1/2 stop of the correct exposure, RAW files are more tolerant. Jpgs are much harder to color balance than RAW files as well.
As mentioned earlier, one of the real advantages of Raw files, is that as the RAW engines - like Adobe Camera Raw - continue to improve as the years go by, you can go back to Raw files shot 5 or 6 years ago and create better images now, than when they were originally shot. I have done this many times, especially with files from my 10D and 20D from 5 or 6 years ago. Straight out of the camera jpgs from those cameras offer far less opportunity for improvement with newer software. But this means you must store the RAW files, rather than just the jpgs.
Sports shooters like jpgs because they are processed much faster than the RAW files, and the buffer does not fill up as fast when shooting in high speed frame rate. That is one of the reasons I shoot jpgs some time, if the buffer fills up and prevents me from shooting in high frame rate in RAw file mode.
Compact flash is cheap these days. Try shooting Raw + jpg and see how your files that you create compare to the jpgs the camera spits out. If you like the SOOC jpgs better, then you know your answer for yourself.
Converrt your 7D RAW files to dng, and your CS5 RAW engine will open them and process them without needing to run through Digital Photo Pro.
Try shooting the smaller mRAW files that the 7D spits out also. You may find you do not really need 18MB files for the quality you need.
Invest in Lightroom 3, it will bring you the new innovations in Adobe Camera Raw, and will open and read your 7D Raw files for you. LR3 offers dramatically better Raw processing for your 7D files, than CS4 does.
When you are shooting the volume of images you are - +1500 frames a weekend - you need a fast system for image processing. That is why your mates shoot jpgs, they are faster and easier hands down. Sometimes good enough, but not as good as well edited Raw files. You get to choose what is most important to you, time, quality, space, color balance, etc.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Thanks ever so much Tony, Andrew, Dan and especially Pathfinder. The sound information you have given me is exactly what I was looking for. Now I know the difference between Raw and Jpeg. I now know what I am talking about in future. As always I know I can rely on Pathfinder for a simple and satisfactory answer to my query or problem.
Kind regards
Bob
It just seemed odd that someone who had been around for 2000 posts didn't already know this info....and we all know there are people who love to stir up the camps in the jpeg raw discussion.
Sorry I jumped to that conclusion . Looks like you got all the info you needed from the knowledgeable folks here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21695902@N06/
http://500px.com/Shockey
alloutdoor.smugmug.com
http://aoboudoirboise.smugmug.com/
Glad to help, Bob.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
+1 0n that...
Anthony.
Link to my Smugmug site
Ultimately, it depends on how much you put into processing your images and what typical processing you do. For simple brightness/contrast type manipulations, you will probably do just as well with Jpegs.
I agree, Joel, no disrespect intended to Zoomer.
I did indeed understand Zoomer's question, but in this case felt Zoomer was not seeing that Bob's question really was sincere.
I don't like either/or discussions when the answer is frequently both, or neither just as often.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
If one is not going to post process their RAW files carefully, then they are much. much better off shooting appropriately set up in camera jpgs.
Or one can shoot RAW + jpg if the action is not so hot that the camera and the memory card can't keep up.
I sometimes set my camera to B&W jpgs and shoot Raw + jpgs so I get the best of both worlds.
Richard is going to drop in here soon and remind me that we can make better B&W images with Raw files after the fact via post processing.
None the less, some jpgs from my camera in B&W I find pleasing. But that is another discussion.
I plan to show some jpgs shot at ISO 12800, and compare their noise with B&W files from Raw conversions as well.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Or maybe because they can get an big increase in burst motor drive speeds.
Using metadata (parametric) tools (presets) to batch process the raw data would go a long way in making this less the case. Kind of what the in camera processing is doing (you are always shooting raw, whether you set the camera for JPEG or not).
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/