But you have to ask yourselves, why would anyone purchase a $10,000 Broncolor setup when they could get two Alien Bee B800's for under $600 that had a color temp consistency of 50K all across the power range.
Your explanation isn't covering why people buy different lights. Alien bees cover a segment of photographers and lighting that isn't covered by other manufacturers.
Like any tool, the person using them has to know their strengths and weaknesses to get the best use out of them.
I own Alien bee lights and use them quite frequently. They don't offer me the same range as my Pro Foto lights but they don't cost me as much either.
If you understand how to use your lights properly, the color shift is negligible. Blaming the light is like blaming the camera. It all starts will the person controlling the system.
Your explanation isn't covering why people buy different lights. Alien bees cover a segment of photographers and lighting that isn't covered by other manufacturers.
Like any tool, the person using them has to know their strengths and weaknesses to get the best use out of them.
I own Alien bee lights and use them quite frequently. They don't offer me the same range as my Pro Foto lights but they don't cost me as much either.
If you understand how to use your lights properly, the color shift is negligible. Blaming the light is like blaming the camera. It all starts will the person controlling the system.
What segment would that be? Because I know Elinchrom, Calumet, Adorama, and several other brands cater to entry level users that can't afford $900 a piece mono lights.
But seriously, if an Alien Bee had better color temperature control than a Broncolor, why would some one purchase Broncolor at all?
And the whole point I'm bringing up is that there is a color shift. I agree that people still use them and get some amazing photos with them. I never said that people weren't effectively using Bees. I just said that there is a color shift.
I'm definitely not to blame that AB lights suffer from a color shift at lower powers. Should I blame PCB for the design since I can't blame the lights?
On a scale of 1 to 10, my awesomeness goes all the way to 11.
Less than 6 months. I'm using 2 AB800 and 2 SB-600 in my setup, and tested at various power levels. No measurable shift for me. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just saying I've never had the problem so its not something I worry about.
But seriously, if an Alien Bee had better color temperature control than a Broncolor, why would some one purchase Broncolor at all?
Who said they were better?
The original question for this thread was "Are they too powerful"
You have turned this into comparing apples and oranges. It would be like comparing my Nikon D3 to my Mamiya DM56.
Like the whole lighting choice, they serve different purposes and different needs. Just because I spent 3 times more on one than other doesn't make it a panacea.
Like I said, I'll take shots with the ABR800 when I have a moment. It probably won't be tonight as I have to fix my computer.
I am not looking for any info on ring lights.....I do not nor will I ever be using ring lights in the future I see for my work...I started this thread looking for CURRENT UPTO DATE info.....from people using the most current models...guess I should have specified that in the opening statement and I probably should have stated that I had already read a lot of stuff dismissing the quality of light from the AB line.
I greatly appreciate all the info that has been brought forth.......and my decision has been made..AB800...Thank You all again.
The original question for this thread was "Are they too powerful"
You have turned this into comparing apples and oranges. It would be like comparing my Nikon D3 to my Mamiya DM56.
Like the whole lighting choice, they serve different purposes and different needs. Just because I spent 3 times more on one than other doesn't make it a panacea.
I guess it was in the other thread that some one specified that the color shift, stated by PCB, was 50K.
I got an email from Paul that stated his flashes have a LOT LESS color shift than even Elinchroms, according to his email, he tests many many different flash units (and brands ofcourse) for comparison.....
I am pretty sure if the color shift was real bad that they would exchange as long as under warranty......
And actually, this post brought up the color shifts:
I am not looking for any info on ring lights.....I do not nor will I ever be using ring lights in the future I see for my work...I started this thread looking for CURRENT UPTO DATE info.....from people using the most current models...guess I should have specified that in the opening statement and I probably should have stated that I had already read a lot of stuff dismissing the quality of light from the AB line.
I greatly appreciate all the info that has been brought forth.......and my decision has been made..AB800...Thank You all again.
The ABR800 is basically a B800 stuffed into a different housing with different flash tubes. So you'll see the same results as you would as if I would have used the B800 I sold last year. AFAIK, lights that were under a year old were the latest iteration of the Alien Bees.
On a scale of 1 to 10, my awesomeness goes all the way to 11.
lI greatly appreciate all the info that has been brought forth.......and my decision has been made..AB800...Thank You all again.
I wanna be like Art when I grow up...
Every time I read a post from him I learn something new... and he just helped my decision too... although I'm starting off with the AB400s, as I need to learn more and more about lighting...
Miguel www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
Every time I read a post from him I learn something new... and he just helped my decision too... although I'm starting off with the AB400s, as I need to learn more and more about lighting...
bowbow THANK YOU TEXPHOTOG for your kind words bowbow and I am blushing.....
I recommend a book that I found very helpful Gowlands Guide to Glamour....you can use the info for most any type of studio shooting...but if you have an aversion to nudes then it may not be for you.....
Get all that you can afford...but at least 2....a really great photog (Peter Gowland - inventor of such thing as the Gowland Flex cameras and Pocket View cameras made of alum and a beautiful twin lens 4x5....) told me for piece of mind and also for speed of set up and ease of use....all lights should be the same make and model...exactly)....as he explained it ...your on location or a client is in front of your background and all of a sudden, a loud pop and a light goes black, first you will replace the flash tube...but wait the modeling light went black also, so it must be the power supply....simple enuff, just grab another light....wait was that a 200ws model or a 100ws second model....so if they are all the same, it will not matter...just go grab a light and plug it in and go.....
I have heard and read tons of stories from Photogs and angry clients that the main light went and the shooot was down because the other lights were not powerful enuff for the main light position.....I used to shoot wedding with my WL5K's and one poped at a wedding, I looked in suit case and drug out a 3rd light (was using 2 for this shoot) and another photog in the same church asked are you sure the ws match.....I laughed and said OF COURSE all my light are the same make and model...no worries..the other photog was a videoographer for local new station the Bride was one of the news anchors....at the reception one of the groomsmen asked why I had told the video guy that all my lights were the same....I said because they are...
This will be the 1st time my studio has had 2 different models of studio flash in it ....but ZI am keeping the WL5k's until I am satisfied with my new purchases, if the AB800's need to go back then i do not want to be without studio lighting.....waiting on the replacements, which would be AB1600's or WL3200......My reason to choose the AB line over the WL line is simply weight....and size.........and I already have an old Audio / Video travel case that will be retro fitted for this kit once I get it all together........one of those nice big blue cases you see at concerts that the roadies lug around and the price was right from the right roadie............
Comments
Your explanation isn't covering why people buy different lights. Alien bees cover a segment of photographers and lighting that isn't covered by other manufacturers.
Like any tool, the person using them has to know their strengths and weaknesses to get the best use out of them.
I own Alien bee lights and use them quite frequently. They don't offer me the same range as my Pro Foto lights but they don't cost me as much either.
If you understand how to use your lights properly, the color shift is negligible. Blaming the light is like blaming the camera. It all starts will the person controlling the system.
Website
What segment would that be? Because I know Elinchrom, Calumet, Adorama, and several other brands cater to entry level users that can't afford $900 a piece mono lights.
But seriously, if an Alien Bee had better color temperature control than a Broncolor, why would some one purchase Broncolor at all?
And the whole point I'm bringing up is that there is a color shift. I agree that people still use them and get some amazing photos with them. I never said that people weren't effectively using Bees. I just said that there is a color shift.
I'm definitely not to blame that AB lights suffer from a color shift at lower powers. Should I blame PCB for the design since I can't blame the lights?
Less than 6 months. I'm using 2 AB800 and 2 SB-600 in my setup, and tested at various power levels. No measurable shift for me. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just saying I've never had the problem so its not something I worry about.
Who said they were better?
The original question for this thread was "Are they too powerful"
You have turned this into comparing apples and oranges. It would be like comparing my Nikon D3 to my Mamiya DM56.
Like the whole lighting choice, they serve different purposes and different needs. Just because I spent 3 times more on one than other doesn't make it a panacea.
Website
I am not looking for any info on ring lights.....I do not nor will I ever be using ring lights in the future I see for my work...I started this thread looking for CURRENT UPTO DATE info.....from people using the most current models...guess I should have specified that in the opening statement and I probably should have stated that I had already read a lot of stuff dismissing the quality of light from the AB line.
I greatly appreciate all the info that has been brought forth.......and my decision has been made..AB800...Thank You all again.
I guess it was in the other thread that some one specified that the color shift, stated by PCB, was 50K.
But PCB say's they're better:
And actually, this post brought up the color shifts:
The ABR800 is basically a B800 stuffed into a different housing with different flash tubes. So you'll see the same results as you would as if I would have used the B800 I sold last year. AFAIK, lights that were under a year old were the latest iteration of the Alien Bees.
I wanna be like Art when I grow up...
Every time I read a post from him I learn something new... and he just helped my decision too... although I'm starting off with the AB400s, as I need to learn more and more about lighting...
www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
Love the stool btw... Great and quick, simple idea but it seems very practical
www.kabestudios.com
I use a little bit of everything gear wise...
Nikon/Canon/Sony/GoPro/Insta360º/Mavic 2 Pro
I recommend a book that I found very helpful Gowlands Guide to Glamour....you can use the info for most any type of studio shooting...but if you have an aversion to nudes then it may not be for you.....
Get all that you can afford...but at least 2....a really great photog (Peter Gowland - inventor of such thing as the Gowland Flex cameras and Pocket View cameras made of alum and a beautiful twin lens 4x5....) told me for piece of mind and also for speed of set up and ease of use....all lights should be the same make and model...exactly)....as he explained it ...your on location or a client is in front of your background and all of a sudden, a loud pop and a light goes black, first you will replace the flash tube...but wait the modeling light went black also, so it must be the power supply....simple enuff, just grab another light....wait was that a 200ws model or a 100ws second model....so if they are all the same, it will not matter...just go grab a light and plug it in and go.....
I have heard and read tons of stories from Photogs and angry clients that the main light went and the shooot was down because the other lights were not powerful enuff for the main light position.....I used to shoot wedding with my WL5K's and one poped at a wedding, I looked in suit case and drug out a 3rd light (was using 2 for this shoot) and another photog in the same church asked are you sure the ws match.....I laughed and said OF COURSE all my light are the same make and model...no worries..the other photog was a videoographer for local new station the Bride was one of the news anchors....at the reception one of the groomsmen asked why I had told the video guy that all my lights were the same....I said because they are...
This will be the 1st time my studio has had 2 different models of studio flash in it ....but ZI am keeping the WL5k's until I am satisfied with my new purchases, if the AB800's need to go back then i do not want to be without studio lighting.....waiting on the replacements, which would be AB1600's or WL3200......My reason to choose the AB line over the WL line is simply weight....and size.........and I already have an old Audio / Video travel case that will be retro fitted for this kit once I get it all together........one of those nice big blue cases you see at concerts that the roadies lug around and the price was right from the right roadie............