Strobes BB - 3rd Attempt

MDalbyMDalby Registered Users Posts: 697 Major grins
edited February 18, 2011 in Sports
OK,

I am finally starting to understand some real photog basics. Some of us take longer to understand principles.

I still have a ways to go. I think I need another flash to bounce off a baseline wall or the ceiling to help with the shadows.

Shot #4 and some others are frustrating. In general, my flash was overtaking the ambient but there were still some times where there is blur. If you look at the fingers on the defender on the left, his fingers blurred.

All these shots are with the following:

Shutter Speed: 1/250
Aperture: 4.5
ISO: 1250
Lens: 70-200mm f2.8 VR

QUESTION 1: I guess I need to up it another 1/3 of a step over ambient to overcome this?
QUESTION 2: How do you make your photos pop in your post processing?

Thanks too all for the suggestions and help!

MD

Shot#1
1189762979_6NuKz-L.jpg

Shot #2
1189763473_82bnW-L.jpg

Shot #3
1189757710_2RAdP-L.jpg

Shot #4
1189759352_mMWkp-L.jpg

Shot#5
1189760416_7SsZ2-L.jpg
Nikon D4, 400 2.8 AF-I, 70-200mm 2.8 VR II, 24-70 2.8
CBS Sports MaxPreps Shooter
http://DalbyPhoto.com

Comments

  • jonh68jonh68 Registered Users Posts: 2,711 Major grins
    edited February 16, 2011
    All you need is one flash, bounced while on your camera.
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 16, 2011
    Just curiously, with reference to the blur on #4 - What flashes are you using? What power were they set to? Have you checked the flash duration for the power that the flashes were set to?

    For really fast play you might want an "effective shutter speed", meaning flash discharge time, of 1/1250 or faster. On an SB900 that would mean having the flashes set no higher than 1/4 power or so.

    That being said, the players hand in #4 appears to be moving toward his face and left shoulder as he pulls his hand away from the ball to make the shot with his right. The blur is in front of the movement and seems to indicate that ambient was not overcome. I don't think it hurts to underexpose ambient by 3 full stops if you are trying to freeeeeeeze motion.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • JimKarczewskiJimKarczewski Registered Users Posts: 969 Major grins
    edited February 17, 2011
    My only issue with a 3rd flash is finding a place that:

    -You won't be aimed directly into the eyes of the players shooting at the basket (which is why the 2 lights off the side lines works so well, no light right AT the basket)
    -You either have to place it really, REALLY high pointing almost straight down, or really low, otherwise you are going to get shadows from the backboard. Had that a few times when my lights weren't far enough out on the sides.

    You can overpower ambient more, just turn your flash up. I'm guessing you didn't have it at full power.. if you did.. then the only thing you can do is up your shutter speed (which will reduce ambient) OR add 2 more flashes. But adding 2 more flashes will only bump you 1 stop of light.. so little reward for big investment.
  • MDalbyMDalby Registered Users Posts: 697 Major grins
    edited February 18, 2011
    Dreadnote wrote: »
    Just curiously, with reference to the blur on #4 - What flashes are you using? What power were they set to? Have you checked the flash duration for the power that the flashes were set to?

    For really fast play you might want an "effective shutter speed", meaning flash discharge time, of 1/1250 or faster. On an SB900 that would mean having the flashes set no higher than 1/4 power or so.

    That being said, the players hand in #4 appears to be moving toward his face and left shoulder as he pulls his hand away from the ball to make the shot with his right. The blur is in front of the movement and seems to indicate that ambient was not overcome. I don't think it hurts to underexpose ambient by 3 full stops if you are trying to freeeeeeeze motion.

    I will try 2 1/2 stops tomorrow night and see if that helps.

    Thanks,

    MD
    Nikon D4, 400 2.8 AF-I, 70-200mm 2.8 VR II, 24-70 2.8
    CBS Sports MaxPreps Shooter
    http://DalbyPhoto.com
  • MDalbyMDalby Registered Users Posts: 697 Major grins
    edited February 18, 2011
    My only issue with a 3rd flash is finding a place that:

    -You won't be aimed directly into the eyes of the players shooting at the basket (which is why the 2 lights off the side lines works so well, no light right AT the basket)
    -You either have to place it really, REALLY high pointing almost straight down, or really low, otherwise you are going to get shadows from the backboard. Had that a few times when my lights weren't far enough out on the sides.

    You can overpower ambient more, just turn your flash up. I'm guessing you didn't have it at full power.. if you did.. then the only thing you can do is up your shutter speed (which will reduce ambient) OR add 2 more flashes. But adding 2 more flashes will only bump you 1 stop of light.. so little reward for big investment.

    I have been setting my flash at 1/8 +1/3 power. Maybe I will go with 1/4. I don't think I need more than 3-4 shots before recycling.
    Nikon D4, 400 2.8 AF-I, 70-200mm 2.8 VR II, 24-70 2.8
    CBS Sports MaxPreps Shooter
    http://DalbyPhoto.com
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 18, 2011
    -You either have to place it really, REALLY high pointing almost straight down, or really low, otherwise you are going to get shadows from the backboard. Had that a few times when my lights weren't far enough out on the sides.

    I definatly agree. Here is an example of the lights to close in under the basket. I took this about 2 weeks back. Notice the GIANT net shadow on the opposite wall. I suppose it is not the end of the world, but I don't care for it much.

    1191596343_rB67P-L.jpg
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
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