Lookin for a Lense for my Nikon d90, which one?
Butterfly2011
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I am buying a Nikon D90 camera. Which will be used for Portraits inside and outside, nature, weddings, children. I was looking at the Nikon 18-105mm lense or would a 18-200mm be better? Please tell me ur thoughts on what lense or lenses. Is a Sigma lense better than Nikon Lense?
Thank u!
Thank u!
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For weddings your main goal is image quality and while the super-zoom lenses are convenient (the afore mentioned 18-200mm and 18-105mm) they are not the best image quality.
I highly recommend a 2 lens system to start. For instance:
Nikkor 70-200mm, f2.8G ED VR II AF-S
... would be an excellent 2 lens kit for the D90 and is capable of professional results.
On a budget you might consider:
Tamron 70-200mm, f2.8 Di LD IF Macro or, considering that you may have fast-moving children, the
Sigma 70-200mm, f2.8 DG HSM II Macro
The Sigma 70-200mm has a faster AF, although the Tamron 70-200mm is a little better image quality. The Nikkor 70-200mm has both speed and quality, but you pay a premium for it.
These 2 lens kits will do nicely along with an appropriate flash and flash modifier.
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I see the 18-200mm as more of a starter lens, so I would second the 2 lens system above. The Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 showed up on my porch yesterday. :-) My next upgrade for lens will be at the wide end with the Tokina 11-16mm DX.
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Congratulations on the new lens.
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Ok Thank u! Are there any other lenses that I should consider? Im just kinda confused in this area there are so many choices! I need professional clear crisp quality imiages.
So for Outdoor Portraits (that also involve kids) and Weddings u think I should use lenses stated above.
How about nature?
Indoor- Im thinking about getting the Nikon SB-700 flash is that a good choice, to me it sounds like I will get good results.
Are there any wide angle lenses that I should consider?
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For professional portraiture you will need at least 2 flashes and potentially more. You'll also need light stands, umbrellas, softboxes, reflectors, maybe some backgrounds and holders, etc.
Most importantly you need to know how to use all of this equipment, efficiently and fluently and effectively.
Take some photography courses and become a "second shooter" for a while until you gain both experience and confidence. When you can "demonstrate" with images that you can produce quality photographic products, you will be ready for paying customers. (Develop a portfolio.)
(Sermon off)
For nature and landscape photography you may want to consider a "super-wide" zoom lens. Nikon has a rather nice:
Nikkor 10-24mm, f3.5-4.5G ED AF-S DX
... but you can also consider:
Sigma 10-20mm, f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM
Tokina 12-24mm, f/4 PRO DX
Tokina AT-X 11-16mm, f2.8 PRO DX
Tamron SP 11-18mm, f4.5-f5.6 Di-II LD Aspherical [IF]
Tamron SP 10-24mm, f3.5-f4.5 Di-II LD Aspherical [IF]
These lenses can provide a vista landscape as well as very good interior coverage in a single image.
For formal portraiture, especially head shots and head and shoulder shots, I strongly suggest a fast prime lens in the 85mm-135mm range. Consider:
Nikkor 85mm, f1.8D
Nikkor 85mm, f1.4D IF
Nikkor DC 135mm, f2D
These lenses keep perspective distortion to a minimum and can provide excellent separation from the background with limited DOF and they also have very nice bokeh. (The 85mm, f1.8 has the worst bokeh of this bunch but it's not all that bad.)
You'll need more gear as you and your photography progresses but I suggest that all of the above, plus my previous recommendations, can meet your current stated needs.
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The Tamron AF 70-300mm, f4.0-5.6 SP Di VC USD XLD is more for good light and mostly outdoor shooting. It lacks the sharpness and light efficiency of the Tamron AF 70-200mm, f2.8 Di LD IF Macro, and the 70-300mm has much worse bokeh.
The VC version of the 70-300mm does have the ability to shoot earlier and later in the day, or in overcast conditions, but only with static subjects. VC does nothing to improve the light efficiency of the lens or stopping motion of a dynamic subject. Basically a stabilized lens just means less tripod/monopod use, but it cannot replace a physical stabilization when you really need it. Lens stabilization also slows down acquisition because it takes just a moment in order for the stabilization to engage.
A faster aperture lens like the 70-200mm, f2.8, also aids autofocus speed and accuracy.
Bottom line, the slower 70-300mm is an OK lens for walking around outdoors but the faster 70-200mm is what you want for most of your intended applications for a longer zoom lens.
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Happy to help.
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Same question, but about a tripod?
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I use Hoya HMC and B+W multicoated filters. You need to spend more than the cheapest filters because they, the cheapest, "will" degrade image quality. Stay away from the Tiffen brand completely.
A good source for filters is:
http://2filter.com/
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My tripod needs are lot different than most and so I purchase and own very different tripods and heads from most.
My favorite tripod and head for dSLR general use is Manfrotto 755XB MDEVE legs, with integral 50mm half-ball, and an older Manfrotto 3047 head (model III).
I also use a Manfrotto "elbow bracket" for holding camera/lens combinations that don't have a tripod ring. The elbow bracket keeps the center-of-balance proper and the bracket includes an anti-rotation device which adapts to multiple camera bodies.
http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-755XB-Aluminum-Tripod-Leveler/dp/B000U8X2G6
http://www.amazon.com/Bogen-3047-Deluxe-Tripod-Release/dp/B000077VZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1246365867&sr=1-1
http://tiny.cc/UXL4Y
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I've thought about selling the 18-200 VR since it is so infrequently used, but it still works for touristy photos walking around cities so it's still hanging around. The Tammy is what's on my camera most of the time.
Thanks!
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I use the Hoya HD polarizer as well. It is super thin, so get a filter wrench if you get that one.
I had the cheaper Hoya Super HMC UV and Polarizer. The HD series passes more light. For the Super HMC polarizer, I actually liked the additional sunglasses effect for bight afternoon light. I sold it though.
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