Stodio shooters

reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
edited February 25, 2011 in People
Question for all you fine people shooters out there....
What light meter do you use?
I'm looking at the inexpensive Polaris SPD 100
Does anyone have any thoughts on this meter?
I would love to get the Sekonic L-758 but that's a pricey unit and not in my budget at the moment...
Yo soy Reynaldo

Comments

  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    Sekonic 358, it also has the ability to fire pocket wizzards if you get the insert.
    Charles
    www.cameraone.biz
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    At half the price of the 758 that unit is within my reach.
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • indiegirlindiegirl Registered Users Posts: 930 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    Hackbone wrote: »
    Sekonic 358, it also has the ability to fire pocket wizzards if you get the insert.

    That's what I have, too.
    main | recent work |
  • mayassamayassa Registered Users Posts: 90 Big grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    Amazon has the Sekonic 358 for $306 but it was $264 when I picked one up in November.
    You can use my Smug Mug coupon a0rrvSicVVqE2

    Rick-Matassa.smugmug.com/
  • WarpedWarped Registered Users Posts: 98 Big grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    I use the Mk1 eyeball and built in guestimation tool :)

    Usually I can get pretty close to what I'm after straight away, 2 or 3 tests shots, chimping the shots and checking the histogram for a tweak or two and I'm usually ready to go just as quickly as when using a meter.

    I'm tempted to get a meter for outdoors work where I'm balancing sun with reflectors and off camera flash, but for the studio I don't use one at all.
    If at first you don't succeed - maybe sky diving isn't for you.
    www.warped-photography.com
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    I'm just having a tough time chimping so I though it might make life easier to have one specifically for the studio work.
    Looks like everyone has the Sekonic eh :D
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    Honestly, I haven't seen anyone using anything other than the camera or a sekonic.... And 90% or more of the Sekonics are 358's....
    I like using the meter since I'm learning still. Allows me to meter the different sides of the face and so on...
    - Andrew

    Who is wise? He who learns from everyone.
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  • indiegirlindiegirl Registered Users Posts: 930 Major grins
    edited February 23, 2011
    I'll admit something here. I bought the Sekonic for spot metering outdoors. I don't use it when I shoot studio. AND I've yet to use it. But I felt like I should have it. It just sits in my bag, saying, "You bought me. Use me."
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  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    adbsgicom wrote: »
    Honestly, I haven't seen anyone using anything other than the camera or a sekonic.... And 90% or more of the Sekonics are 358's....
    I like using the meter since I'm learning still. Allows me to meter the different sides of the face and so on...

    Exactly why I want one, to meter different areas of the face and what not until I get familar with my lighting...
    Looks like I should try and collect a few more pennies for the Sekonic as it has some really nice features compared to the one I am looking at.
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    indiegirl wrote: »
    I'll admit something here. I bought the Sekonic for spot metering outdoors. I don't use it when I shoot studio. AND I've yet to use it. But I felt like I should have it. It just sits in my bag, saying, "You bought me. Use me."

    I suppose it's quite a bit more acurate than the built in meter on your camera body?
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    Found a demo unit from a top seller on Ebay for 260......
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    Just because you have a light meter doesn't mean it is accurate or accurated in all cameras. I use a Canon 5d II and a 1ds mkii and I have to set the meter for each camera to get accurate results. You will have to play with all meters because not all cameras give equal results even between the same model.
    Charles
    www.cameraone.biz
  • Tim KamppinenTim Kamppinen Registered Users Posts: 816 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    I have a Sekonic 358... I got it on ebay for around $125, used. There were others in that range, too. You can snag one on the cheap if you look and wait a little.
    http://www.timkphotography.com
    http://blog.timkphotography.com
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    Hackbone wrote: »
    Just because you have a light meter doesn't mean it is accurate or accurated in all cameras. I use a Canon 5d II and a 1ds mkii and I have to set the meter for each camera to get accurate results. You will have to play with all meters because not all cameras give equal results even between the same model.


    I figured that might be the case as I plan on using both the D700 and 7000 so there will be a learning curve.
    Thanks Charles....
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    Tim Kamppinen wrote: »
    I have a Sekonic 358... I got it on ebay for around $125, used. There were others in that range, too. You can snag one on the cheap if you look and wait a little.

    Am watching a few used units as well.
    Thanks
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • zoomerzoomer Registered Users Posts: 3,688 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    I use the blinkieomatic. I increase the exposure until the blinkies go off then back it off just a hair, using the exposure compensation dial.
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  • jdryan3jdryan3 Registered Users Posts: 1,353 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    Hackbone wrote: »
    Sekonic 358, it also has the ability to fire pocket wizzards if you get the insert.
    I have this one and mainly use it in mixed light, such as significant light coming in a window and I need a lot of fill flash with studio lights.
    "Don't ask me what I think of you, I might not give the answer that you want me to. Oh well."
    -Fleetwood Mac
  • bitwise95bitwise95 Registered Users Posts: 48 Big grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    358...nice all around meter
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited February 24, 2011
    I use a Sekonic L558 cine.........was looking at the 778 but the L558 fit my needs and PRICE.......the 358 is excellent for studio or location work for 99.9% of photogs but I needed the ability to do spot metering at night and also the ability to average those readings........

    Easiest way to check the accuracy of a handheld incident meter is to be exactly 10 feet from the flash and fire it at full power...if the guide number for a flash is lets say 320@iso 100@ 10 feet .....then the meter should give a very close reading to f32 allowing for some variations in age of flash tube, and flash unit and also in the measuring of the 10' space to the source flash......so if you get a reading of F30.5 to 33.5 I 'd say it is very close and does not need to go in for calibration

    I did not got thru all of these posts but .......a huge point for using a meter is time......it can cut your time in set ups way down and the clients experience is much better as they are not waiting on the photog to chimp and hearing our "oh crap" or bummer or what ever our brains spout off before we realize it.....I do not chimp, I do bracket...with my Nikon, I set my auto bracket feature for 5 @ usually .3 stop or .7 stop and my frames at continuous low......that way I have a selection.....
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 25, 2011
    Thanks for that bit of info.
    Time is definitely a huge factor for this purchase........
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • reyvee61reyvee61 Registered Users Posts: 1,877 Major grins
    edited February 25, 2011
    zoomer wrote: »
    I use the blinkieomatic. I increase the exposure until the blinkies go off then back it off just a hair, using the exposure compensation dial.

    The who, what, what?
    :D
    Yo soy Reynaldo
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited February 25, 2011
    Not just the accuracy of the meter but how your cameras sensor responds to light. I try to get my skin tones in the 240ish range so the highlights are not blown. To do this I have to adjust my meter. For my 5D I have to bump up my Sekonic by a plus .2 and for my 1ds MKII I need to set my Sekonic to a plus 1.2 to get the same skin tones. It's really a balancing act for all your equipment.
    Charles
    www.cameraone.biz
  • zoomerzoomer Registered Users Posts: 3,688 Major grins
    edited February 25, 2011
    reyvee61 wrote: »
    The who, what, what?
    :D

    Sorry just being a smart @$$.
    I know nothing about photography, so I just use the blinkies. If they aren't blinking I increase the exposure via the exposure compensation dial, if they are I decrease the exposure.

    Bright good...dark bad....:D

    I am just curious...what is having a light meter is going to help you do better. I don't know so I am just asking.
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