Bleh. Sending back the Nikon 85 f/1.8
My 85mm f/1.8 arrived yesterday. Today my LesnAlign kit arrived so I could set the micro-focus on all my lenses. It worked perfectly with the 35mm f/1.8, the 55-200 VR, and even the Tokina 12-24.
The 85 f/1.8 was a terrible experience. It was hard to identify any potential focus problems because the lens was so soft. Soft at 1.8, soft at 2, soft all the way until 5.6. Very disappointing. Back to Adorama it goes. I usually don't buy into the "bad copy" stories, but I don't know what else to think at this point. :scratch
Should I try the 50mm? Another copy of the 85?
The 85 f/1.8 was a terrible experience. It was hard to identify any potential focus problems because the lens was so soft. Soft at 1.8, soft at 2, soft all the way until 5.6. Very disappointing. Back to Adorama it goes. I usually don't buy into the "bad copy" stories, but I don't know what else to think at this point. :scratch
Should I try the 50mm? Another copy of the 85?
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How many photographers does it take to change a light bulb? 50. One to change the bulb, and forty-nine to say, "I could have done that better!"
Here is one at f1.8 and 1/1600 shot through glass door ISO 400
Curves adjusted no additional sharpening. I need to micro adjust it seems back focusing slightly
100% crop
http://kadvantage.smugmug.com/
Have you tried this same shot at higher shutter speeds? 1/250 or 1/400 keeping the F stop and ISO the same?
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If I keep the f/stop and ISO the same, yet increase the shutter speed 10x, isn't it going to be a very, very dark image? Why would shutter speed matter on a tripod and fired with a timer/remote?
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Having said that, if you've got a "LensAlign" gadget then clearly you've got money to burn, so I'd recommend stepping it up to the 85 1.4 AFD or, if you're not opposed to third parties, the new Sigma 85 1.4 EX HSM is honestly the best 85mm ever made, when balancing performance and value. No joke, and yes I've tested almost every 85 around, from both Canon and Nikon...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Hard to tell. My hunch is, no. If you go to my galleries and check Kids-->2011 and look at the three most recent pictures you'll see a couple of other examples. They all look (just slightly) soft/OOF to me.
Ha ha ha. A pastor with money to burn.
The Lensalign was purchased for a very specific project. More on that later.
I don't have a problem with 3rd party lenses at all, but both of those are out of my price range. The Sigma 85 is $917 on Amazon. The Nikon is $1174 for the f/1.4D and $2100 for the 1.4G. The 85mm f/1.8 that I have was about $300. I think my best bet is to figure out if this lens is fine (and the problem is user error) or to try another 85 f/1.8.
Now the 50mm f/1.4 is certainly within my price range. (A used 85mm f/1.4D seems to be about $850. Still too high.)
If you post a tripodded, f/2.0 or f/2.8 test shot of a real-world subject, we could tell you pretty quick whether or not the lens is adequately sharp. From the LensAlign image alone, if that's a 100% crop, I would indeed say that you've got a soft copy of the lens. Clearly you know what you're doing, with the tripod and timer delay etc, so I'm inclined to NOT blame user error. Test the lens one final time, use live view to zoom way in and test it manually, and then send it back if it's not satisfactory. You definitely don't need any of those f/1.4's to achieve decent sharpness at 1.8, nor incredible sharpness at 2.8...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Oops! Corrected, thanks. I'll take several test shots (real world) today and see what I get.
I dunno Paul, 1/25th is darned slow. If I wanted to "test" a lens, it'd be fer sure lots faster than 1/25th! Thats as technical as I can get. 1/25th is simply slow allowing for any number of things, such as mirror slap to reverberate and give the image ever so slightly a push~It don't take much movement at that slow of a speed to really skew things~
I suggest an outdoor brick wall during daylight per my usual testing regimen and then, if the lens passes that test, revisit the Lensalign with flash illumination.
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First off, Im not tryin to be a smart ass so please dont take this as such lol.
Did you remember to flip the AF switch on the front of camera to the "AF" position?
It is far better to test a lens' fine detail at a lower ISO for paramount image quality, even if that cuts the shutter speed way down. Of course you CAN fix the problem by shooting in the dark with flash, but I've found that a tripod and cable release work just fine.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Today the lens will get more use outdoors.
Yes, right, just the first. EXIF same as yours !~
Sorry to read of your problems; do email me if you need any help with this.
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Thanks Helen. I've printed out the return form and have it ready to go, but I really want to make sure that the lens is the problem before I send it back. I really like the focal length and don't want to pass on this lens unless I have to. I'll make a decision by Monday and let you know.
This is in keeping with everything I've ever heard about this lens. Send it back. You're out a bit of shipping ...but that is why you bought from a reputable source!
The frustrating part is that it's not consistent. Some images show a front-focusing problem. Others seems to suggest that it's back-focusing. Here's a gallery where I dumped some unedited pictures from today.
http://www.paulsclicks.com/Admin/working/2265747_dDMhU#1211472567_cAwca
I read on NikonCafe about a user who was having a similar problem, but noticed that his shots taken with live view were in focus while his viewfinder shots were not. Using a tripod and a fixed subject he tested his theory and found that the camera was only focusing properly when live view was activated. I wondered if that might be my problem, so I tested many of the shots today with live view - yet I couldn't see a difference.
I'm installing the Nikon software now so that I can see where the focus points were supposed to be for each image.
According to the Nikon viewer: 1/125, f/2.8, ISO 800, and the focus point is right on his eye. I would expect this to be tack sharp. (Click on the picture to see a larger version.)