Coworker's kid take 2 (6month)

Foques

Hi.
as some may recall, I've posted the Christmas shots of my coworker's daughters.
Well, they turns out, they liked my work.. and had me come out for more. this time, it was a 6month occasion..

everything was shot is an extremely cramped basement.. had one umbrella softbox to the right of camera.. and had to trigger it via commander mode, as the cheap POS triggers wouldn't fire..

1)


2)


3)


4)


5)


6)



Noted a few mistakes:
a) some may be a bit overexposed
b) need to watch background more careful
c) need to get lower to the ground.. Once I buy a car that can fit more than me and my camera bag, i'm buying props...
d) please, add more!

any feed back is appreciated

Qarik

the umbrella/softboc is much too far away and too high for the baby shots...the resulting light is still a touch harsh. Get that umbrella JUST out of camera fram and watch that light just soften up a ton.

Foques

Qarik, what would be the best way to balance for the correct exposure in that scenario?
Via turning down the flash or decreasing aperture (already shot at 6.3)?...

Qarik

If your using CLS then you must be using nikon flashes..so just keep it in TTL. No need to adjust anything. Furthermore I would shoot close to wide open to isolate subject and get some lovely bokeh. Faster shutter speed too..I feel you have too much ambient. Also on this crappy monitor the shots look a touch over exposed ..maybe 1/3 stop. (I am looking at skin and the red shirt)

Foques

seem when I shot TTL last time, I had quite a bit of an underexposure going.. I had a thread about this somewhere on here. I need to read more about this.

Dreadnote

Background content and distance. It looks like there is a fairly hard shadow on the background in #2, and there is a plant growing out of his head on #3 and 4 and a bit of random clutter in #6.

Foques

yeah, I know that. Room was an issue.
definitely need to watch my backgrounds, though. that's true.

JustinThyme

You cant shoot TTL and into or through an umbrella, you will get underexposure. I noted that most are over exposed and flat and all missing a nice catchlight in the eyes. Skin tones are virtually non existant and the highlights blown. Catchlight should be in the 11 oclock or 1 oclock position in both eyes. dead center doesnt work well. To really create depth you need at least 2 lights. Preferable on out of the frame right high shining down for ahir lighting and one behind to left or right at subject level to get the catchlight and as a mainlight. There are a lot of different ways to paint with light. Dont limit your self to a single head and TTL as the combinations with different lights from different angles and at different levels is almost infinite. The hard shadow in the background isnt so desirable but almost unavoidable with a single light.

A couple of samples of the brats and Fido the last time I used a 2 light setup as described above this past christmas. Large softbox high to the right angled down just out of the frame and large umbrella bounced slightly above subject level and angled down about 8 feet back and 4 ft from center frame on the left. Both strobes White lightning x1600 with softbox at about half power and mainlight behind at 3/4 power give or take. All shot with MKIV in full manual IS0 200, f8, 1/300 with a 35L lens.

Foques

Justin, I think we have already established the TTL and umbrella is a no no. I didn't say that I did. Sorry if I mislead you.
no ctachlight is due to me having to engage flashes with CLS... Next time, it won't be the case.

in your samples, 2nd one (the dog) seems underexposed to me.. but, perhaps, it is a difference in our styles? pictures like that I want to be brighter just because I feel they seem happier that way..

Dreadnote

Foques wrote: »

Justin, I think we have already established the TTL and umbrella is a no no. I didn't say that I did. Sorry if I mislead you.
no ctachlight is due to me having to engage flashes with CLS... Next time, it won't be the case.

in your samples, 2nd one (the dog) seems underexposed to me.. but, perhaps, it is a difference in our styles? pictures like that I want to be brighter just because I feel they seem happier that way..

Just as a side point, triggering flashes with CLS is fine. Just make sure the the on camera flash is set to "master --" where it only fires a minimal pulse that won't effect the exposure. Alternatively, you can use a camera mounted flash bounced off a back wall or the ceiling. If there is only one speed light and an onboard pop-up flash you can partially block the flash from firing forward by holding your hand in front of it at a 45 degree angle with the open side of your hand on the same side as your speed light, or Nikon makes this relatively inexpensive product:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flash-Couplers/4905/SG-31R-IR-Panel-for-Built-In-Flash.html

I believe the last time I looked it was about $15.00

There is no need to break the bank, at portrait range CLS does a pretty decent job as long as your camera can see the remotes, which for a simple 1 or 2 light system you usually can.

Hope that helps

Foques

thank you very much for the ideas, sir! will try them out!