Buying used: Are these normal signs of wear?

Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
edited March 27, 2011 in Cameras
I'm not sure if I can ask this here but since I don't own any of the big
white tele's (yet) I'd like to know what you think about the cosmetical (?)
condition of this lens (200mm 2.0).

side view

In particular I'd like to know if the grey marks on the black frontring
and the white paint abrasion next to it are normal for a signs of wear
(possibly due to lens hood mounting/unmounting?)

The lens is 2 1/2 years old. To me it kinda looks like it has been used
by a professional before. But maybe I am just uebercareful before
dropping big $$$ on a lens like this.

The rest of the lens seems to look very well.

Thank you for helping me out.
“To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
― Edward Weston

Comments

  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    I can't say if that's "normal" or not, but I just bought a BGN-rated 24-70L from KEH which looks worse than that. Obviously, everybody has a different tolerance for body nicks and bumps - while I like a shiny, pristine lens, I'm more interested in its guts than its exterior and if works perfectly - that's an absolute must - and I'm saving enough money, I'll take an "ugly duckling". For me, the optics need to be up to standard, but I'm not so worried about the housing.

    Of course, the price should reflect the condition; I certainly want to see reasonable savings for any lens which doesn't look brand new. Also, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with this approach buying privately - it's different when it's through an organisation with a return/warranty etc. Definitely makes a difference IMO.

    YMMV may vary of course, and I have noticed that for some people this is a huge big deal while for others, like me, it doesn't matter so much. Chacun a son gout and all that... :D
  • Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    I totally agree with what you said. The price of this lens
    is 60% of the new street price and it's an offer from a dealer
    with a good return policy.

    If someone who owns a similar lens can confirm that these "marks"
    are just signs of wear I'd be willing to give this lens a try (and
    stop thinking for a minute of how long I have been saving to afford it) :)
    “To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
    ― Edward Weston
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    Manfr3d wrote: »
    The price of this lens
    is 60% of the new street price and it's an offer from a dealer
    with a good return policy.

    Doesn't that make it a no-brainer just to do it???? I'm jealous rolleyes1.gif
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    signs of normal wear differ from user to user...by that I mean.....the way I use a camera hanging from my body on a strap and being poked and prodded by thorny bushes might not be normal wear for ......say a photog that only shoots on the beaches and wooded areas that does not have any thorny bushes.... alluding to marks that may be caused by numerous removal of the lens hood....well the photogs bag would not allow for keeping the hood on when stowing away.....

    this lens to me looks perfect......but I would ask to see the rear contact area of the lens......that to me is more important than the area where the hood attaches......and the front element area...to me those are the 2 key parts top inspect.....I have seen what looked like a brand new lens only to see corrosion on the rear contacts ....the glass was perfect ...but I would not pay for a lens with contact corrosion as it might be deeper than the contacts.....
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    Thanks! Thats a great advice I have not heard before Art.

    I don't see corrosion but some signs of wear on the
    rear contacts. The front element looks good to me.

    I just contacted the dealer if to see if I can check it
    out locally before buying, just to be save.
    “To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
    ― Edward Weston
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    Manfr3d wrote: »
    The price of this lens
    is 60% of the new street price and it's an offer from a dealer
    with a good return policy.

    I'm sorry . . . what was the question??? Just buy the damn thing if you want it. Or tell me where it is. I have a friend who'll buy it in a heartbeat.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • JovesJoves Registered Users Posts: 200 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    There are no normal signs as Art said it is the user that makes for the wear. If they used the lens alot then it will show more wear. I would just check it out in the store mounted on the camera. Run it through its paces then decide. No need to agonize over it, either get it or dont.
    I shoot therefore Iam.
    http://joves.smugmug.com/
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited March 23, 2011
    Manfr3d wrote: »
    Thanks! Thats a great advice I have not heard before Art.

    I don't see corrosion but some signs of wear on the
    rear contacts[/URL]. The front element[/URL] looks good to me.

    I just contacted the dealer if to see if I can check it
    out locally before buying, just to be save.

    I try to help when I can...no real need to say same as others that does not really help.....All looked good to me...but hard to tell from pix.....as stated by Joves.....put it thru the paces if possible and to satisfy yourself of it reliability at time of purchase.

    Good Luck.
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • puzzledpaulpuzzledpaul Registered Users Posts: 1,621 Major grins
    edited March 24, 2011
    Marks on the front are, imo - as you surmise, from a lens hood being put on / removed.

    Assuming the hood is attached in the same way as my 500/4, you slacken off a small knob, attach hood, tighten knob to stop hood dropping off.
    If, as part of this procedure you end up with the knob in a (radial) position you don't like - for some reason or other, like being in a sightline - slackening it off, and rotating the hood with respect to lens front'll produce such marks - the knob drives a 'wedge' into the groove around the lens.
    Also, standing the lens vertical, with hood attached, puts loading on this region.

    Mine has such and far, far more - it's severely cosmetically challenged - but works ... which, as am in the same boat as dm, is the important thing.

    A brief note re the hood attach screw / widget (again, if same as mine) ... the whole thing depends on a small circlip to function correctly - if this drops off / gets lost, you'll be able to tighten the hood on, but not release it via the screw - it's a poke about with screwdriver job :)

    But it's a std engineering component - for a few pence.

    The local shop I bought mine from let me take pics with my own cam / card, review pics on my computer at home - in a hassle free manner. Lens also came with 12m warranty.
    Can't see much on this pic, but you can see I don't like big white (prominent) lumps :)

    (for a recent post in wlife forum re low stuff, btw)
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v492/pppix/bankside.jpg

    pp

    Edit
    Re front 'element'
    Am not familiar with this specific lens, but the newer big teles that've recently been released are of a slightly different design from the previous models. On the older ones (like mine), the front 'element' is a protective chunk of glass, and not a light modifying element ... and therefore, if compromised in some way, is cheaper to replace than otherwise.

    Canon, in their infinite wisdom (weight saving / 'progress' / IQ etc) have done away with this on the newly released big teles :)

    Imo the money spent gets quickly forgotten when you see the results ... I'd love to have a 500 /2 - but not carry / support ... or buy it :)
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,129 moderator
    edited March 24, 2011
    ...
    Edit
    Re front 'element'
    Am not familiar with this specific lens, but the newer big teles that've recently been released are of a slightly different design from the previous models. On the older ones (like mine), the front 'element' is a protective chunk of glass, and not a light modifying element ... and therefore, if compromised in some way, is cheaper to replace than otherwise.

    Canon, in their infinite wisdom (weight saving / 'progress' / IQ etc) have done away with this on the newly released big teles :)

    ...

    The long focal length lenses that had/have a protective "window", which is really just optical glass similar to a protective filter, are there to protect the front element which is a "fluorite" composition. Fluorite is a crystal, not a type of glass, and it is much softer and more easily scratched and/or broken. (Fluorite has about half the dispersion of quartz, which is why it is valuable for use in long focal length lenses and refracting telescopes.)

    Those lenses are considered "sealed" at the front and do not require a front filter to seal the lens, as many other Canon lenses require.

    More recently Canon, and other manufacturers, have developed new optical glass formulations which can preclude the need for fluorite in their optic construction.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • puzzledpaulpuzzledpaul Registered Users Posts: 1,621 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    ziggy53 wrote: »
    The long focal length lenses that had/have a protective "window", which is really just optical glass similar to a protective filter, are there to protect the front element which is a "fluorite" composition. Fluorite is a crystal, not a type of glass, and it is much softer and more easily scratched and/or broken. (Fluorite has about half the dispersion of quartz, which is why it is valuable for use in long focal length lenses and refracting telescopes.)

    Those lenses are considered "sealed" at the front and do not require a front filter to seal the lens, as many other Canon lenses require.

    More recently Canon, and other manufacturers, have developed new optical glass formulations which can preclude the need for fluorite in their optic construction.

    Ziggy - wondering how the above compares with reality and release notes for the new 500mm?

    ie old 500 has a UD element (not flourite) immediately behind the 'protective glass' - are UD elements similarly susceptable to damage?

    New 500 has 2 x flourite elements - are the new glass formations unable to be produced in the diameters needed for the big teles?

    pp

    http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&docId=0901e02480288843
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,129 moderator
    edited March 26, 2011
    Ziggy - wondering how the above compares with reality and release notes for the new 500mm?

    ie old 500 has a UD element (not flourite) immediately behind the 'protective glass' - are UD elements similarly susceptable to damage?

    New 500 has 2 x flourite elements - are the new glass formations unable to be produced in the diameters needed for the big teles?

    pp

    http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&docId=0901e02480288843

    Lens formulae are much more complicated than most people realize. Fluorite solves some problems but creates other problems. All lenses are compromises in some form or another.

    Without knowing the design goals that the optical engineers were chasing for the lenses that you mentioned it's hard trying to second guess their decisions.

    All we can do is measure the properties of the lenses as they emerge.

    The Canon EF 500mm f/4.5L USM does have a fluorite element behind the optic window and so it would seem that it is just a simple protective element, probably a Schott glass. The EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM also appears to have a protective element for that matter.

    If you look at the EF 500mm f/4L IS USM block diagram, the very front element appears to have some shaping, indicating that it may be an "active" optic element. (Specifically it looks to be a plano-concave element.) If this is the case then it is more than just a protective glass window.

    EF 500mm f/4.5L USM block diagram:
    ef_500_45l_usm_bd.gif

    EF 500mm f/4L IS USM block diagram:
    ef_500_4lis_usm_bd.gif

    I would guess that the front element of the EF 500mm f/4L IS USM is a "flint" glass composition, probably designed to counter the dispersion index of the "crown" glass UD element, but this is just a guess. (Canon does not say.) You will typically find a crown-and-flint glass combination in an achromatic long focal length lens design that does not use fluorite for the objective element.

    Good question.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • puzzledpaulpuzzledpaul Registered Users Posts: 1,621 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    Thanks for info, Ziggy - I should've made it clearer that I was always referring to 500 f4 ... not 4.5 ... when mentioning 'old' 500.

    Other stuff aside, it'll be interesting to see how these new lenses compare with the old - in the field (in all senses of the word) - ie being used for what they were intended for - rather than shooting charts.

    << If you look at the EF 500mm f/4L IS USM block diagram, the very front element appears to have some shaping >>
    My understanding was that it is indeed a curved 'meniscus' plain glass element, so shaped to reduce image degradation issues, but not part of the image forming system - but I have no hard info to back this up other than 'shop talk' and my interpretation of what I read somewhere - so probably inaccurate :)

    pp
  • oakfieldphotography.comoakfieldphotography.com Registered Users Posts: 376 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    An ultimatum we all could encounter some time or other.
    Reminds me of an auction i attended in England. Old guy walks in soaked to the skin reeking of whiskey, clothes were very shabby and torn, only to be turned at the door twice before being told to come back at a later date more suitably dressed for the occasion and to sober up. Met the same gentle man years later at a beer tent of a very famous auction event. He had double framed glasses and a slurred voice. Seemed like he was not all there if you know what i mean.
    After an hour i headed into the auction and seen some of the most exotic cars being sold at fair prices and some good ones too. When all was over i was on the way out and the bar man called me over to remind me i had forgot my umbrella. Thanked him and proceeded to go out the main gate of this event when i spotted the old gent again leaning up against a bugatti. He called me over and asked how the auction went and i told him i had to go but i found out he had bought 6 cars that day from the bar via a telephone bid. Shocked wasent the word i would use to describe what i missed. So i learned a very valuable lesson that day. Never judge by what you see on the out side, The real deal is on the inside.I was told afterwards that his brain was as sharp as a pin and that he was very good to numerious charities
    He died a few years later. Very well liked man.
    Even diamonds come with rough edges.
    Just thought i would share that with you all as this story can relate to buying a lens that you are worried about. Guess the answer is to try it out and not to turn your nose up at it at first sight.
    Regards
    Patrick:D
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    Yeah, but would you've bought an expensive used lens from him???
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • oakfieldphotography.comoakfieldphotography.com Registered Users Posts: 376 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    I can see that someone here isent getting the moral of the story.

    Regards
    Patrick:D
  • DsrtVWDsrtVW Registered Users Posts: 1,991 Major grins
    edited March 26, 2011
    I bought my Nikon 200mm f2 used and have never regretted the purchase. Save about 2000.00 off the price of one that is new now days. Do your research and go with your gut.
    Chris K. NANPA Member
    http://kadvantage.smugmug.com/
  • Manfr3dManfr3d Registered Users Posts: 2,008 Major grins
    edited March 27, 2011
    Turns out the dealer is a one-man-show who does not respond to emails,
    skype calls, or phone calls. After digging deeper I found out that the guy
    is runs consulting limited in another country. Someone pointed out to me
    that the email signature was not compliant with local law (important
    bussiness registration information missing).

    I think I am better of waiting for another deal.

    If someone else wants this lens send me a PM and I provide u
    the link. Just don't blame me if the whole thing turns out to be
    a scam ;)
    “To consult the rules of composition before making a picture is a little like consulting the law of gravitation before going for a walk.”
    ― Edward Weston
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