If you are shooting raw, I'm not sure it makes much of a difference. My understanding is that WB is applied in the jpeg conversion process, and to the raw pix as an 'as shot' presentation. In any case, I have never worried too much about WB when I am shooting, as I always shoot in raw format. Probably there are others here who know more about this. I am curious to know as well.
All that said, I did notice a bizarre WB phenomenon one time, when shooting basketball in a poorly lit court with sodium vapour lights and very light cream colored walls. Every now and then I'd get these weird gradients in color and intensity that should not have been there. I was shooting with a 5DmII, without added photography lights. Only happened once...
As for the posts saying "it doesn't matter," we are not talking about whether you have to set WB in camera to get correct WB in the end. We're talking about whether the WB you set in camera causes the in-camera histogram to not report clipping correctly, therefore not reporting raw exposure correctly and creating the possibility of clipping of at least one channel. Because the in-camera histo is based on producing a JPEG with camera controls, not a raw.
As for the posts saying "it doesn't matter," we are not talking about whether you have to set WB in camera to get correct WB in the end. We're talking about whether the WB you set in camera causes the in-camera histogram to not report clipping correctly, therefore not reporting raw exposure correctly and creating the possibility of clipping of at least one channel. Because the in-camera histo is based on producing a JPEG with camera controls, not a raw.
Thanks Colourbox, that is good to know. I hadn't thought about what format the histogram represented. I just assumed it was overall intensity (or each of the color channels) of the image in RAW form . I guess it makes sense for it to represent something closer to the final image one wants to create. But does the WB have any actual effect on the captured RAW image? I can understand that a misleading histogram might cause the photographer to set the exposure incorrectly; but for a given exposure, does changing the WB on the camera have any effect? i wouldn't think so, but I still have a lot to learn about this subject...
If you are shooting raw, I'm not sure it makes much of a difference. My understanding is that WB is applied in the jpeg conversion process, and to the raw pix as an 'as shot' presentation. In any case, I have never worried too much about WB when I am shooting, as I always shoot in raw format. Probably there are others here who know more about this. I am curious to know as well.
All that said, I did notice a bizarre WB phenomenon one time, when shooting basketball in a poorly lit court with sodium vapour lights and very light cream colored walls. Every now and then I'd get these weird gradients in color and intensity that should not have been there. I was shooting with a 5DmII, without added photography lights. Only happened once...
...when you're shooting in heavy-duty artificial lighting, the mechanical effect is "cycling," as in the hertz range for the particular lights. Like, 60hz will cycle 60 times a second, thusly you can get quite a few variants in color... problematic, and very difficult to correct down the line, too. I shoot inside gyms often, and know to grit my teeth and bear it! (...my info comes from a guy who's been doing it for years...he's helped me to relax!).
...when you're shooting in heavy-duty artificial lighting, the mechanical effect is "cycling," as in the hertz range for the particular lights. Like, 60hz will cycle 60 times a second, thusly you can get quite a few variants in color... problematic, and very difficult to correct down the line, too. I shoot inside gyms often, and know to grit my teeth and bear it! (...my info comes from a guy who's been doing it for years...he's helped me to relax!).
That makes sense, especially when shooting sports where the shutter speed is much faster than the inverse of the cycle frequency. But I've only seen this at one gym, but confess to not shooting indoors that often.
When shooting raw, WB has no effect on the data (its only a metadata suggestion for rendering a JPEG or if the raw converter can read the data and even then, its a suggestion). Only Exposure and ISO affect raw data.
arodney: thanks! that's what I thought. I usually leave WB set to auto, unless I am shooting color-challenged situations like theatre and dance. I then correct in the post.
colourbox: I learned a lot from those links you sent, not the least is why shooting to the right (which I do frequently) works well, even when there is some clipping indicated on the LCD. I always wondered why this happens--clipping alert on the LCD but not actually blown out in the RAW file--and now I know.
Does anyone actually readjust the WB calibration on the camera so that the histogram reflect that actual image being recorded? I've just gotten used to how much I can push the exposure to the right, and how much clipping alert I can tolerate before there is actual clipping.
I usually leave WB set to auto, unless I am shooting color-challenged situations like theatre and dance. I then correct in the post.
Exactly what I do too. Auto often gets me in the ball park, but I can season to taste. If the lighting is way off, might as well specify something closer for the raw converter just so it doesn’t look so butt ugly upon import.
If the lighting is way off, might as well specify something closer for the raw converter just so it doesn’t look so butt ugly upon import.
Likewise. When I shoot indoor games under monochromatic light, I almost always specify the WB so that the colors and especially the skin tones look somewhere close to attractive on the import. Makes the post a lot easier too. AWB just makes the skin tones look jaundiced, which I suppose is how they actually look under those lights. Still, not what I want in the final version.
If the lighting is way off, might as well specify something closer for the raw converter just so it doesn’t look so butt ugly upon import.
Yes, having the in-camera WB in the right ballpark can help you capture a good exposure too since most camera histograms are based on the converted JPEG preview.
Or you could use UniWB and have all of your images look butt ugly on import ;-)
It's about time DSLR makers starting giving us histograms that were based on the actual RAW data!
Comments
All that said, I did notice a bizarre WB phenomenon one time, when shooting basketball in a poorly lit court with sodium vapour lights and very light cream colored walls. Every now and then I'd get these weird gradients in color and intensity that should not have been there. I was shooting with a 5DmII, without added photography lights. Only happened once...
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=49859.0
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=22250
http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/uniwb/index_en.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=22062
As for the posts saying "it doesn't matter," we are not talking about whether you have to set WB in camera to get correct WB in the end. We're talking about whether the WB you set in camera causes the in-camera histogram to not report clipping correctly, therefore not reporting raw exposure correctly and creating the possibility of clipping of at least one channel. Because the in-camera histo is based on producing a JPEG with camera controls, not a raw.
Thanks Colourbox, that is good to know. I hadn't thought about what format the histogram represented. I just assumed it was overall intensity (or each of the color channels) of the image in RAW form . I guess it makes sense for it to represent something closer to the final image one wants to create. But does the WB have any actual effect on the captured RAW image? I can understand that a misleading histogram might cause the photographer to set the exposure incorrectly; but for a given exposure, does changing the WB on the camera have any effect? i wouldn't think so, but I still have a lot to learn about this subject...
...when you're shooting in heavy-duty artificial lighting, the mechanical effect is "cycling," as in the hertz range for the particular lights. Like, 60hz will cycle 60 times a second, thusly you can get quite a few variants in color... problematic, and very difficult to correct down the line, too. I shoot inside gyms often, and know to grit my teeth and bear it! (...my info comes from a guy who's been doing it for years...he's helped me to relax!).
That makes sense, especially when shooting sports where the shutter speed is much faster than the inverse of the cycle frequency. But I've only seen this at one gym, but confess to not shooting indoors that often.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
colourbox: I learned a lot from those links you sent, not the least is why shooting to the right (which I do frequently) works well, even when there is some clipping indicated on the LCD. I always wondered why this happens--clipping alert on the LCD but not actually blown out in the RAW file--and now I know.
Does anyone actually readjust the WB calibration on the camera so that the histogram reflect that actual image being recorded? I've just gotten used to how much I can push the exposure to the right, and how much clipping alert I can tolerate before there is actual clipping.
Exactly what I do too. Auto often gets me in the ball park, but I can season to taste. If the lighting is way off, might as well specify something closer for the raw converter just so it doesn’t look so butt ugly upon import.
Author "Color Management for Photographers"
http://www.digitaldog.net/
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Likewise. When I shoot indoor games under monochromatic light, I almost always specify the WB so that the colors and especially the skin tones look somewhere close to attractive on the import. Makes the post a lot easier too. AWB just makes the skin tones look jaundiced, which I suppose is how they actually look under those lights. Still, not what I want in the final version.
Yes, having the in-camera WB in the right ballpark can help you capture a good exposure too since most camera histograms are based on the converted JPEG preview.
Or you could use UniWB and have all of your images look butt ugly on import ;-)
It's about time DSLR makers starting giving us histograms that were based on the actual RAW data!