D700 Controls & Settings (Image Comparisons)
I recently got my D700 and even though I usually shoot RAW, I wanted to test what all the settings look like to get the best SOOC shots. I hope someone finds this useful. It helped me determine what I'm going to keep my settings on.
Conditions: Mid-late afternoon. Nice sunny day, but it wasn't direct harsh sunlight. Perfect overhead lighting conditions.
In Camera Settings tested:
1.) FIRST TEST IMAGE: Aperture Priority (ISO 200, 2.8, 1/1000)
I decided to manually expose and drop the shutter a bit because I usually prefer a little more ambient than what it gives me for A priority. Although now that I see them compared in a large size on the screen, I think I might prefer the one that was A priority.
2. CONTROL IMAGE Manual Exposure (ISO 200, 2.8, 1/800), Everything set to Default (Auto or Off)
Turned on D-LIGHTING
3. Everything else the same, D-Lighting AUTO
4. D-Lighting HIGH
5. D-Lighting NORMAL
6. D-Lighting LOW
TESTING PICTURE CONTROL (With this next set of images I kept the D-Lighting on auto)
7. Picture Control NEUTRAL
8. Picture Control VIVID
9. Picture Control MONOCHROME
TESTED COLOR SPACE (All the previous images were sRGB.)
10. Changed to Adobe Color Space, Standard Picture Control
11. Adobe Color Space, Vivid Picture Control
12. Adobe Color Space, Neutral Picture Control
13. Adobe Color Space, Monochrome Picture Control
TESTED VIGNETTE CONTROL
14. Back to sRGB, HIGH Vignette
15. LOW Vignette
16. Vignette OFF
Conditions: Mid-late afternoon. Nice sunny day, but it wasn't direct harsh sunlight. Perfect overhead lighting conditions.
In Camera Settings tested:
- D-Lighting
- Picture Control
- Color Space
- Vignette Control
1.) FIRST TEST IMAGE: Aperture Priority (ISO 200, 2.8, 1/1000)
I decided to manually expose and drop the shutter a bit because I usually prefer a little more ambient than what it gives me for A priority. Although now that I see them compared in a large size on the screen, I think I might prefer the one that was A priority.
2. CONTROL IMAGE Manual Exposure (ISO 200, 2.8, 1/800), Everything set to Default (Auto or Off)
Turned on D-LIGHTING
3. Everything else the same, D-Lighting AUTO
4. D-Lighting HIGH
5. D-Lighting NORMAL
6. D-Lighting LOW
TESTING PICTURE CONTROL (With this next set of images I kept the D-Lighting on auto)
7. Picture Control NEUTRAL
8. Picture Control VIVID
9. Picture Control MONOCHROME
TESTED COLOR SPACE (All the previous images were sRGB.)
10. Changed to Adobe Color Space, Standard Picture Control
11. Adobe Color Space, Vivid Picture Control
12. Adobe Color Space, Neutral Picture Control
13. Adobe Color Space, Monochrome Picture Control
TESTED VIGNETTE CONTROL
14. Back to sRGB, HIGH Vignette
15. LOW Vignette
16. Vignette OFF
0
Comments
* Wedding day and/or portraits - Vivid, with contrast turned up one or two clicks depending on if the light is flat, and maybe saturation turned up one click.
* Wedding day low light - Neutral, with contrast turned up two or three clicks, and saturation turned up one or two clicks.
* Wedding day B&W - often I will shoot in-camera B&W during a wedding, and when I do I usually turn the contrast to the max, brightness to normal, filtering set to Orange for lighter skin tones, and the sepia toning set to the 1st or 2nd level just to make a faintly warm image.
* Wedding day and/or portraits creative B&W - sometimes, when regular B&W isn't enough "fun", I'll use a custom profile I created in Nikon's free program, that applies a custom curve directly to the in-camera image. (Not the RAW of course, just JPG's and RAW previews.) It's got flattened highlights and shadows, to give it that faded, washed-out look.
* Sometimes, I like D2X mode 3 for misc. color shooting. It's a good blend of pleasing skin tones, yet popping colors in general.
* ALWAYS leave your sharpening down at zero if you shoot JPG, or if you plan to output your RAW photos straight to JPG in Nikon View NX2. The only time you should EVER turn up in-camera sharpening is if you're NEVER going to print the image larger than 8x10, or if you're shooting RAW and you're going to re-process any print that will be larger than 8x10. Of course, why? Because the in-camera sharpening simply butcher's that fine level of detail / acuity that you see with a properly processed RAW file. So, keep your sharpening down. You may feel like your images are too soft, but trust me the same amount of image DETAIL is still there. You just ALWAYS want to do all your sharpening as the very last step in the whole process, to get the maximum possible detail...
Take care, and happy shooting!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
I do love shooting in RAW and will continue for important things. But for everyday family things, I'm going to shoot RAW + JPG and then make the decision later if I have time to monkey with the files. I want to get the most bang out of the JPG that I can in case I don't have the time or inclination to process everything.
Thanks for the heads up about the in camera sharpening. I probably would have tried to turn that up.
Then again, I don't shoot B&W much if at all.
Compares two Picture Controls from NX 2, LR3 and C1.
I only shoot JPG B&W when I'm not "on the job", and feel like living life on the wild side. Usually in extremely low-light situations where I simply know that shooting color is going to be pointless.
The rest of the time, yes I do shoot RAW however, as I've outlined recently in another thread here, I use Nikon View NX to cull / proof images, and that gives me access to the in-camera processing.
Honestly, I just do it because I like to, there's no real reason other than I feel it is a creative passion of mine to "nail it in-camera".
Every photographer has the things that give them a great sense of accomplishment, for me it is to capture an image that needs absolutely zero "photoshop"... Again, check that other forum reply for examples of "SOOC" processing. Or just peruse my blog and look for comments on whether or not images are SOOC...
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Maybe it's just because I'm never "assuming" that my light meter is going to give me a perfect exposure every single time. Whether I'm shooting in Manual or aperture priority, Matrix or Center-Weight or Spot, ...I'm never going to trust the camera's guestimate at what *I* want as an artistic decision. Forget 18% grey. Forget whether or not this or that mode will blow your highlights. Just shoot, adjust, and shoot. :-)
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Thanks for the reply!
+1. Cannot agree more.
I didn't mention anything about metering.
The metering is fine, but it's the software that's blowing out the highlights too soon.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Once again, my point doesn't have anything to do with hardware. It's a software issue.
As, far as resolving my issue, it already has been resolved by using competent software.
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
I definitely love Active D-lighting. Maybe I'm not a purist, maybe I'm missing out on some higher standard, but I love un-edited images that were properly captured in the first place. Here's a completely un-edited JPG using Active D-lighting on my D300, back in 2009.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Now what if Nikon came out with a FF in a D3000 or D5000 body made out of carbon fiber and weather seals and a 35mm f/2 pancake lens?.... with AF!
Anyways, for your consideration I present the Sony A850. A 24 megapixel full-frame DSLR that costs $1999, brand new. Which brings us slightly closer to the POSSIBILITY of more "affordable" full-frame DSLRs. Honestly? Since my work is portraits / weddings and my hobby is landscapes, why DON'T I have the A850 and at least one or two lenses? Even if only as a complimentary item to my current system, I'm pretty sure that Nikon's equivalent "affordable" 24 megapixel camera will be $3000 minimum. And that's beside the whole point; the point of a $1999 full-frame DSLR is to eventually find it for $1200 used. :-P But anyways... With in-camera stabilization to (sort of) make up for the poorer high ISO performance, I'd happily take an A850 and a small 35 prime out for a stroll, or even on a landscape shoot depending on the sharpness.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
Yeah, why aren't we shooting sony by now?!
I'm horribly bad with sensing sarcasm, but I'll assume that was approximately 50% tongue-in-cheek. But seriously? The moment I'm independently wealthy, I'm buying everything. Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus, and Pentax. And Leica! I'm just not a "fanboy" in that sense. The only reason I only own Nikon is cause I'm too poor to own more than one system. For now. :-D
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Likewise, and lucky I'm not even ticklishly tempted by any on your list, or off! If I can do stuff half as impressive as what I see has been done to date around the world, with gear no better than mine, I'll be inexpressibly grateful!
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix