Palouse Falls WA

Bignick

Some shots I took the other day with my new camera.

http://nickhiatt.smugmug.com/Landscapes/Palouse-Falls/16732954_n3Q88C#1262154792_XKzNW9T

ront

Looks like you have a good start here. There is still a lot of water going over the falls yet. I would like to get back out there.

It looks like you were out there in the mid day . I do like that you were able to catch the rainbow! The pictures do look overexposed some. A polarizer may have helped some, but I think a faster shutter speed also would have helped.
Here is a link to a photo I took at PF in January of this year. It was at dusk also.
http://ront.smugmug.com/Places/Day-Trips/Palouse-Falls-1222011/15551679_a3XHt#1165061130_vsG4m-XL-LB

Ron

squirl033

a shot like this would probably benefit from being taken 1/2 to 1 stop underexposed, to avoid hot spots in the waterfall. better still, take it early in the morning, or late in the afternoon, just before sunset, for the best light.

DcMoody23

Hi there.
Looks like a good start to me.

However, a polarizer or an ND filter would have done wonders here. Also, a little simple post processing could really bring the colors to life.

And of course switching that new 60D out of automatic mode wouldn't hurt (learn to love AV, TV, and M modes)

If you had the opportunity, it'd be really interesting if you were able to go back to that same area after getting a little knowledge and experience under your belt!
Gorgeous area though, thanks for sharing.

and of course +1 to squirl's comments

Bryans12v

All shot on Auto? You couldve switched into manual mode and not have blown the highlights.

Looks like an awesome fall! If its close to home dont give up on it!

Congrats on the new cam. I was contemplating the 60D before I picked up my used 5D. Kinda wish I got the 60D.

Bignick

Thanks for the tips guys. Everything was shot in auto. I literally just got the camera. There is so much I need to learn. I also just picked up a circular polarizing filter and a tripod. I plan to head back out there soon and try some different settings.

ront

Where are you located Bignick? I would like to head out there again also, if I can get the time to get away.

Ron

squirl033

"a polarizer or an ND filter would have done wonders here."

a polarizer or ND filter would have helped slow the shutter to blur the waterfall, but neither would've helped with the blown highlights. either of those filters will reduce the overall brightness of the image, but will do so equally across the entire dynamic range, and the camera will compensate by simply taking a longer exposure. that's why i suggested shooting 1/2 to 1 stop underexposed (in manual mode) to reduce the brightness of the water. it'd be a compromise, and the shadows would be a bit darker, but they could stand to be a little darker anyway, and at least the highlights wouldn't be blown. you can also set the camera to spot meter, and select a point of "medium" brightness, such as the mist at the base of the falls, for metering that will produce a mid-range exposure. again, a compromise, but it'd save the highlights, and you could then brighten the shadows in PP as needed, as long as you keep the shadow noise under control.

DcMoody23

squirl033 wrote: »

"a polarizer or an ND filter would have done wonders here."

a polarizer or ND filter would have helped slow the shutter to blur the waterfall, but neither would've helped with the blown highlights. either of those filters will reduce the overall brightness of the image, but will do so equally across the entire dynamic range, and the camera will compensate by simply taking a longer exposure. that's why i suggested shooting 1/2 to 1 stop underexposed (in manual mode) to reduce the brightness of the water. it'd be a compromise, and the shadows would be a bit darker, but they could stand to be a little darker anyway, and at least the highlights wouldn't be blown. you can also set the camera to spot meter, and select a point of "medium" brightness, such as the mist at the base of the falls, for metering that will produce a mid-range exposure. again, a compromise, but it'd save the highlights, and you could then brighten the shadows in PP as needed, as long as you keep the shadow noise under control.

Yeah, I should have added that the ND would be waterfall specific, and the polarizer could get take a little shine out of the waterfall.

I underexpose every landscape shot that I take, by about 1 stop (assuming I'm shooting in RAW). I find that I get more play with the image and can brighten it up how I want.
Anyways, thanks for the clearification to the OP.

Ooh and OP, I know you don't know exposure yet, but take some time when you go out, put the camera on manual, and just shoot. On your canon there is a meter that goes from -3 up to +3. The meter isn't 100% accurate, but as a beginner it'll allow you to get a great feel for what you're doing.
When I started out, and as stupid as this will sound, i'll admit to it: I didn't know about the light meter so I completely out of my element when shooting on manual.. I would just make blind estimates by playing up and down with the different numbers and take a shot, and see if it came out black, white, or was an actual image.

Eh, the point is this: the in-camera light meter is your best friend right now. Just remember that aperture (the number after the f/) and shutter speed are inversely related, and that bumping up your ISO is directly related to shutter speed.

Hope that makes some sense for you.

Bignick

Thanks again for the tips guys. I picked up a few specific 60d books. I work full time and go to school full time so I'm scrambling to learn as much as I can when I get a window of free time. I might try to drive down the Columbia scenic highway this weekend and shoot some falls.

I really want to be ready for when I climb Mt St Helens in June. I have a pretty cool idea for a picture in my mind and I hope I can get it to turn out right.

Oh and Ront....I live in Kennewick