Mounting, Matting and Framing

eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
edited May 14, 2011 in Mind Your Own Business
I've started to sell more of my landscape photos and am struggling with the best option for mounting and framing a traditional print. In the past, I have ordered a (for example) 11x14 lustre print, hinge mounted it to a mat and then put it into a frame with acrylic. I bought frames from framedestination but have found that, with minor wear (ie moving with very careful packing), parts of the black frame have chipped off leaving a wood substrate underneath.
Also, I have noticed some rippling of the prints over time - even with the hinge mounting.

My new plan is to put together a 16x20 image in photoshop with a centered print. Have that printed on 16x20 lustre paper and mounted by bayphoto or whcc to foamboard vs styrene (preferences???)

Then order a mat from someplace like documounts that would cover the white space on the print surrounding the center image. Attach the mat to the foamboard with ATG double-stick tape.

Finally, order up a simple black frame with acrylic to drop the whole thing into. This seems the most economical approach (buying a matted, framed print of that size from the big boys would be about $125). I would like to find a better place to buy frames and welcome advice. Also, any tricks to working with acrylic and getting the backing off???

Please add any suggestions to the above plan and/or shoot holes in it if I've missed something.
Appreciate it!
E

Comments

  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited May 10, 2011
    Still stuck and really need to put in an order.
    Both prints are 2x3 ratio. I found some 18x24 frames with glass for $30 each at Michaels today. Mats add $10. Prints of that size matted to styrene is another $35. So $75 for an okay (but not great - found a ding in it) frame and I do it myself. Alternative is $125 to get it matted and framed professionally by WHCC/Bay.
    Any suggestions on more standard sizes (smaller than 20x30) for a 2x3 ratio photo?
    Other suggestions for prints? I have tried hinge mounting prints to the mat and backing with archival foamboard. However, cost was also around $80 and the quality of the job after 1-2 years was not great.
    Really appreciate your advice.
    E
  • OhiohikerOhiohiker Registered Users Posts: 117 Major grins
    edited May 11, 2011
    Dry mounting to foam core would help the image to lay flat for a long period of time. One way you could do it would be to order the 11x14 print dry mounted to foamcore from Bay, WHCC or where ever. If you want your finished product to be 16x20 to fit a standard frame, find a local framer with a CMC(computerized Mat Cutter) and have them cut custom mats for you to fit your frame. You can then use foam core from AC Moore, Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc to make strips to build up around the mounted print and fit the frame. Then mount the strips to the back of your mat and drop the mount print into the "sink" you just created with the strips.

    BTW, I have been hinge mounting for several years and have never had any problems with warping. What kind of tape/technique are you using?

    Hope this helps.
  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited May 11, 2011
    Thank you for the reply Chris.
    I found that BayPhoto offers matted prints (up to 16x20) that they prep for you - basically, I'll get a 16x20 mat with a mounted 11x16 print on 16x20 1/4" foamboard. That combo cost $34. I then ordered a wood frame and acrylic from framedestination and will simply pop the product from Bay into the frame (once I get that darn acrylic paper off). That seems to be the most economical and most reproducible setup I can find. The frames at Michaels all had imperfections on closer review. I still don't trust myself to mount the print to the backing and mat. I can also order the matted option and put it in a bag for sale.
    As for hinge mounting, I followed the instructions on the page below (about half-way down) with two T's at the top of the print.
    http://www.framedestination.com/picture_frame_mounting.html
    Thanks again
    E
  • OhiohikerOhiohiker Registered Users Posts: 117 Major grins
    edited May 12, 2011
    That is the correct technique for mounting and the same that I use. Another question is, whether or not you are using a dust cover? A dust cover is simply craft paper ATG'd to the back of the frame. This helps reduce, does not prevent, humidity changes in the frame. To really make the print stay flat dry mounting is the best option.

    The best way to remove the protective sheet from the acrylic is to get is started and "roll it up" around a mail tube or large dowel rod.

    Post some pictures of the finish product. I would love to see it!
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Big grins Grasonville, MDPosts: 0 Big grins
    edited May 13, 2011
    thanks
    Sorry I can't add to your solution, but your post pointed me to a vendor to help me get started on doing a few frame ready prints for some local show and contest stuff. So thanks for your links they are of a big help.
  • lfortierlfortier Registered Users Posts: 237 Major grins
    edited May 14, 2011
    Went through the same situation you are in years ago.

    After much money spent and a lot of frustration, I picked up a Logan 750 mat cutter that paid for itself the first month. Then I picked up a used dry mount press on eBay. Wonderful investment! It paid for itself in no time. Now, I dry mount anything 11x14 or larger, cut my own mat and drop it into a frame.

    If you're doing a couple of prints or more monthly, it is worth the investment.
  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited May 14, 2011
    Thanks for the added comments.
    Just got my first matted work from Bay - 11x14 in a 16x20. Came out awesome! Frame arrives in 4 days and will post pix then.
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