Canon 1DMk2 or 40D (or other?)
Happened upon this site whilst searching for a camera and grateful for any advice as to new camera selection. I've been trying to take shots of polo for a couple of years with an EOS 450 D and a 70-300mm zoom. The field is big and the horses are moving at about 20 - 30 mph which makes things harder. Some of the best shots are when they are approaching the camera head on at a gallop.
My current set up struggles with the AF and I can't really get enough shots off in a burst to catch critical action. A pro photographer friend suggested looking at old 1DMk2 pro bodies which can shoot much faster (8fps allegedly). have been in a number of stores and read countless reviews and am not now sure whether the benefits of the (old) pro system significantly outweigh the advantages of a newer (but still second hand) body like the 40D. The additional weight of the 1D isn't an issue, I'll probably be using a monopod. Ease of set up and use is important - I'm not a camera tech whizz/pro and will probably only be using the set up over weekends in summer months so I won't be practising constant drills running through different screens/menus/options.
I'd planned to get hold of an L series lens (the 100 - 400 zoom) which is where most of the money will go. I'm based in the UK so any special US only editions/tips will be wasted on me but it's clear there is a wealth of experience on the site and I'd be interested in any advice.
Thanks Michael
My current set up struggles with the AF and I can't really get enough shots off in a burst to catch critical action. A pro photographer friend suggested looking at old 1DMk2 pro bodies which can shoot much faster (8fps allegedly). have been in a number of stores and read countless reviews and am not now sure whether the benefits of the (old) pro system significantly outweigh the advantages of a newer (but still second hand) body like the 40D. The additional weight of the 1D isn't an issue, I'll probably be using a monopod. Ease of set up and use is important - I'm not a camera tech whizz/pro and will probably only be using the set up over weekends in summer months so I won't be practising constant drills running through different screens/menus/options.
I'd planned to get hold of an L series lens (the 100 - 400 zoom) which is where most of the money will go. I'm based in the UK so any special US only editions/tips will be wasted on me but it's clear there is a wealth of experience on the site and I'd be interested in any advice.
Thanks Michael
0
Comments
The 1D2 not only has more AF points than the 40D, but they cover a bigger area and it allows you to (more easily) shuttle points along horizontal paths to a greater extent than the 40D.
This is useful in Servo mode from a compositional pov.
Re setup - there's no danger of inadvertantly moving the mode dial because it doesn't have one.
The 1Dm2 will AF to f8 (albeit centre point only) whereas the 40D has a f5.6 limit - maybe something to bear in mind re (future) use of teleconverters.
You'll only get the best from either setup / system if the lens is also suited to the job in hand - so something with faster AF / wider aperture than what you currently use might also have to be considered / taken into account.
1Dm2 in portrait mode is better than a 40D with accessory box - all relevant controls are duplicated and better weather protection, since one's been designed from ground up, whilst the other offers ingress opportunities ... and sometimes the 40D batt box can get stuck on the body - requiring 'surgery' to remove it
Like you, I'm no pro - but I have a 40D, have used a 1Dm2 - a weekend loan (and currently use a m3).
These days, I invariably miss the 1D AF point layout whenever I use the 40D - other ppl will, of course have different experiences, no doubt
(I also spell colour with a u)
pp
Flickr
You'll lose 2mp and a little bit of screen size with the 1DII, but those are the only downsides I can think of. I think the 1DII is better in almost every way and would not trade in my 1DII for a 40D.
1DII can be found for around $600, while 40D goes for about $400-500 (although I've seen it at $600 recently).
Main time (these days) I'd use the 40D would be as part of a dedicated macro rig, since it'd always be used on low iso + the fact that the lower body profile allows shallower angles if lens front resting on the same surface as the subject - than a 1D sized body. (or ground level if used with an angle finder)
Re Uk prices - dunno as not in the market for either, but a local Jacobs has(d) a 40D for 450 and a 1Dm2 for another 200ish (refurb 7Ds being 900+) ... all 'proper' money, btw
pp
Flickr
1.Superior build-MKii
2.AF - MKii
3.Noise - 40D
4.Sensor Clean - 40D
In low light situations the 40D is superior by far! Having done a lot of indoor sports accompanied by under the lights settings the 40D will hands down win when it comes to noise. Along with 40D sensor cleaning app' which can be a pain not having when you find those dust spots after a shoot.
I replaced my 40D with a 50D and just never became comfortable with the latter even with the extra 5 mp's the 40D just had a better IO - IMO. There are situation were I wish I owned a MKii such as day time sports were its superior focusing is second to none. but that is what you have to weigh when choosing for you.
Goodluck
Brady
Single-Shot AF is the camera default for most dSLRs and the Canon cameras are no exception. Single-shot works best with stationary or slow moving subjects, and for when you too are stationary.
AI-Servo mode is best for subjects in a predictable motion with respect to your position. It is a type of AF that allows the camera to "predict" proper AF based on sampling subject motion, i.e. closing rate and distance vector information. As such, you need to both activate the AI-Servo AF before you need it, by half-depressing the shutter button before the intended capture, "and" the subject has to be in a path of motion that is predictable. If the subject motion is unpredictable or if you just mash down on the shutter button the camera may not be able to properly calibrate the camera's AF algorithm to the subject motion and AF will be erroneous.
For a horse race I recommend AI-Servo and a technique similar to what I used for sports. I would constantly half-depress the shutter button as I saw the action about to take place and then, when the action started, I would follow through with a full depress to capture the action sequence. Sometimes that would require some anticipation of the action while other times I would start the acquisition sequence at the point of greatest interest.
There is a method of shooting a long sequence from just before the action takes place and following through with the sequence until after the action has stopped. You will find many folks calling this the "spray-and-pray" method, which I find terribly derogatory. It's true that this method has both merit and detriment in use and I don't recommend it or use it.
Typically I would shoot bursts of 3-4 shots, trying to get shot #2 or shot #3 at the prime moment of action.
One thing that the 1D MKII has, that the lesser models typically don't have, is an ability to adjust the AF for distraction sensitivity. On the 1D MKII you can tune the sensitivity higher or lower, with distractions having more or less impact on the AI-Servo calculations.
Distractions may be another subject crossing the path of your principal subject or it may be your principal subject veering from the previous path. Generally I would set the sensitivity down one click from neutral, to make the AI-Servo less sensitive to distractions. I found this to give a slightly better rate of keepers for American football, for instance. For a car race or a horse race I would look very carefully at the type of action to see what setting is required. If there is a lot of changing of position I would probably reduce the sensitivity, but if there is only one leader, or if the primary subject does not have distractive subject matter around it, then I might increase the sensitivity over neutral.
I also recommend proper positioning of the selected focus dot to start the AI-Servo sampling and calculation. Many cameras can track the subject fairly well with AI-Servo and you don't have to keep the focus point selection nailed to the subject. The 1D MKII does a fairly good job of tracking the subject unless there is a lot of distraction in the frame. I did find it best to generally start with the center point selected and on the subject and then shift the frame as necessary to frame the action.
The difference between the Canon 1D MKII and the 1D MKIIN models is that the MKIIN has a slightly deeper shot buffer and it has both a larger LCD display and "Picture Styles". The MKIIN also has the ability to create a new folder when the shots exceed 9999. (I always just start the counter over with each new card, on the 1D MKII, which you can automate.) The imager, image processor, mirror box and shutter are all identical between the 2 models and they take identical images. I do believe that the AF distraction sensitivity is a little lower by default on the MKIIN.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Just a short word of thanks to you all. The forum has been an excellent source of swift and informed advice. A great help in an hour of need. I may well be back with more questions as I get deeper into the dark arts of photography. Meanwhile, thanks for your advice so far.
Regards
Michael
Good luck in your photographic endeavors and, if you have more questions, we're here to help.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
;-)
=Matt=
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