Amazing, Werner. It's as if I'm just looking directly at the flower in your garden. You've mastered this kind of post-processing, Sir. Well done. thumbthumbclapclap
Sitting quietly, doing nothing. Spring comes and the grass grows by itself.
This is a very nice shot. One of the best flower shots that I've seen. Nice post processing. It looks like an HDR...yes?
Remember, no one may want you to take pictures, but they all want to see them. Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Ed
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black mambaRegistered UsersPosts: 8,325Major grins
edited May 28, 2011
Outstanding work, Werner. That's a wall-hanger for sure.
Tom
I always wanted to lie naked on a bearskin rug in front of a fireplace. Cracker Barrel didn't take kindly to it.
This is a very nice shot. One of the best flower shots that I've seen. Nice post processing. It looks like an HDR...yes?
Thanks Ed and Tom, It is one exposure but I used a remoted flash to separate the background and flower bud exposures. The background is exposed 2 stops under. After that it's tone curves, an inverted USM for fine contrast and then sharpening. I did purposely keep the highlights (the flower petals) about 1 stop below white to preserve the details and texture of the petals.
Thanks Ed and Tom, It is one exposure but I used a remoted flash to separate the background and flower bud exposures. The background is exposed 2 stops under. After that it's tone curves, an inverted USM for fine contrast and then sharpening. I did purposely keep the highlights (the flower petals) about 1 stop below white to preserve the details and texture of the petals.
Beautiful photo. I came upon this post searching for comments on the FlashBender. What size Flashbender did you use - Large, Small or Bendable?
I wonder if you could explain in a little more depth how you did this as I am little confused.
You say it is one exposure but in your explanation you mention the background is exposed 2 stops under. I suppose this was done in post processing that is apparently a little more advanced than my knowledge base.
I searched for the term "inverted USM" but could not find its meaning. Could you explain please?
I take lots of daylily photos and I suspect I could apply some of the post processing you mention above, but I am ignorant of the processes.
Beautiful photo. I came upon this post searching for comments on the FlashBender. What size Flashbender did you use - Large, Small or Bendable?
I have the large flashbender used on an SB-600. (the large fb is really too heavy for the SB-600, it folds the hinge too easily and the wrap-around velcro doesn't wrap tight enough. It is designed for larger sized flashes.
I wonder if you could explain in a little more depth how you did this as I am little confused.
You say it is one exposure but in your explanation you mention the background is exposed 2 stops under. I suppose this was done in post processing that is apparently a little more advanced than my knowledge base.
I set flash to remote and Nikon D90 in "Commander Mode". I turn down the onboard flash -3 EV on the Commander set up screen. (the on board flash has to be on to talk to the remote flash with IR but I don't want much light on the subject from it). The remote flash is usually at 0 or +/-1 EV. I shoot in manual mode, exposure set anywhere from -2 to -4 EV (exposure compensation set to zero, I don't really understand all the various compensation interactions, there could be at least 5 competing compensations at play here). This sets the background exposure. Take a few test shots with flash off to verify the background. Try to set the remote flash to light the subject and miss the background. The fb helps here. You can twist it to help keep the flash off the background. The camera has to be in Matrix Metering mode. It will then adjust the remote flash to properly expose the subject only.
I searched for the term "inverted USM" but could not find its meaning. Could you explain please?
I'm not sure that it is the right term but high radius/low amount USM is often used to create local contrast. On flowers it helps bring out petal textures. Once the parameters are set I blend the strength into the image using Capture-NX2's Opacity Blender (same as PS's layer blend). It is very easy to overdo this. I look back on this image now after 4 months and I'm not sure that I didn't.
I take lots of daylily photos and I suspect I could apply some of the post processing you mention above, but I am ignorant of the processes.
Thank you Marionet. I should have mentioned that if a flower is in sunlight, I usually use a translucent photographer's umbrella to shade the flower. I don't think I needed it for this shot.
I tried your method of USM - lol, never thought of that - and so far it works really well.
Be careful with USM local contrast; wait a day or two and look at it again before you decide you're done. It can look good on the monitor, but if overdone, it can obliterate fine texture.
Comments
http://imagesbyjirobau.blogspot.com/
Thank you Jiro.
and thank you rbt and Richard.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
Thank you Azzaro, I'm glad you liked it. I've always enjoyed your photographs from Arizona.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Ed
Tom
Thanks Ed and Tom, It is one exposure but I used a remoted flash to separate the background and flower bud exposures. The background is exposed 2 stops under. After that it's tone curves, an inverted USM for fine contrast and then sharpening. I did purposely keep the highlights (the flower petals) about 1 stop below white to preserve the details and texture of the petals.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
Andrea.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
Beautiful photo. I came upon this post searching for comments on the FlashBender. What size Flashbender did you use - Large, Small or Bendable?
I wonder if you could explain in a little more depth how you did this as I am little confused.
You say it is one exposure but in your explanation you mention the background is exposed 2 stops under. I suppose this was done in post processing that is apparently a little more advanced than my knowledge base.
I searched for the term "inverted USM" but could not find its meaning. Could you explain please?
I take lots of daylily photos and I suspect I could apply some of the post processing you mention above, but I am ignorant of the processes.
Thanks, Phil
"You don't take a photograph, you make it." ~Ansel Adams
Phil
I have the large flashbender used on an SB-600. (the large fb is really too heavy for the SB-600, it folds the hinge too easily and the wrap-around velcro doesn't wrap tight enough. It is designed for larger sized flashes.
I wonder if you could explain in a little more depth how you did this as I am little confused.
You say it is one exposure but in your explanation you mention the background is exposed 2 stops under. I suppose this was done in post processing that is apparently a little more advanced than my knowledge base.
I set flash to remote and Nikon D90 in "Commander Mode". I turn down the onboard flash -3 EV on the Commander set up screen. (the on board flash has to be on to talk to the remote flash with IR but I don't want much light on the subject from it). The remote flash is usually at 0 or +/-1 EV. I shoot in manual mode, exposure set anywhere from -2 to -4 EV (exposure compensation set to zero, I don't really understand all the various compensation interactions, there could be at least 5 competing compensations at play here). This sets the background exposure. Take a few test shots with flash off to verify the background. Try to set the remote flash to light the subject and miss the background. The fb helps here. You can twist it to help keep the flash off the background. The camera has to be in Matrix Metering mode. It will then adjust the remote flash to properly expose the subject only.
I searched for the term "inverted USM" but could not find its meaning. Could you explain please?
I'm not sure that it is the right term but high radius/low amount USM is often used to create local contrast. On flowers it helps bring out petal textures. Once the parameters are set I blend the strength into the image using Capture-NX2's Opacity Blender (same as PS's layer blend). It is very easy to overdo this. I look back on this image now after 4 months and I'm not sure that I didn't.
I take lots of daylily photos and I suspect I could apply some of the post processing you mention above, but I am ignorant of the processes.
Hope this helps.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/
I tried your method of USM - lol, never thought of that - and so far it works really well.
Be careful with USM local contrast; wait a day or two and look at it again before you decide you're done. It can look good on the monitor, but if overdone, it can obliterate fine texture.
http://wernerg.smugmug.com/