Am I getting close?
Product shooting. I have been asked to shoot some jewelry so I built this light tent and experimented a bit with some of my household glass art pieces.
Am I getting close to the correct approach? I'm looking for serious advise and critique here so don't hold back. :scratch
I already want to add another strobe from the top.
Thanks.
Am I getting close to the correct approach? I'm looking for serious advise and critique here so don't hold back. :scratch
I already want to add another strobe from the top.
Thanks.
0
Comments
I was just guessing though. I need to get more education on what the temp is on my strobes.
Brad
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Google color balance tools and pathfinder and my thread on color balance toolls for shooting, or editing should pop up.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Will do. Thanks for the tip.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Or eliminate the flash altogether and use all the same type bulbs...
Another option would be to use a globe...
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=197698
Cheers, Don
Product Photography
My Acreage Bird Photographs
I like your light tent.
I really recommend you use lights with the same temp. Critical with jewelry, art glass etc.
Light tents produce a soft light which tends to soften detail. You may want to think about adding some small direct light to give the jewelry / glass detail and sparkle. I want to see the facets in the gem and other small detail.
High end jewelry photographers can take hours to set up one shot. Carefully observing highlights / shadows and then setting up small reflectors and flags as needed.
Sam
Thanks Don, I appreciate your suggestions.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Gracias Sam, I agree, I expect I will be trying several different lighting options to get the right effects once I get the pieces I will be working with.
I appreciate your comments.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Any suggestions for improvement?
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http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes I believe it worked out well. I did have to play with the WB a bit but I did that while holding the piece in my hand and comparing until I had a good match to reality. They reflect fairly accurately the colors of each piece.
The client wanted the art paper background on the other backgrounds. For the black I tried shooting on quality black velvet but even with a good cleaning dust was still visible. I decided to mask off the piece and layer in the pure black background. No dust going that route.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Here is an example.
Sam
To me on my monitor the silver almost looks blown out but the stone looks a whole lot better. Much more sharp and intense.
What tweaks did you apply?
I based my original capture and PP on staying just below any blinkies of the blown out areas. How did you approach the PP?
I really do like your improvement and I would like to understand your approach.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/
Basically RAW has a little more overhead than a jpg so DEPENDING on the scene and / or subject I will routinely adjust the capture exposure untill there are some blinkies on the camera LCD.
The image you posted appeared to be underexposed and flat so I used curves to adjust the brightest and darkest points in the image. Increased mid tone darkness. Increased contrast and added some sharpening.
As to the silver, this could be proceeded selectively if you wanted to go through the effort.
Also this was a quick fix to a small jpg.
Sam
I'll spend some time getting more experience with the curves adjustments. There's no question your rendering has more clarity and punch. Thanks for poking the student in the right direction.
http://bgarland.smugmug.com/