I was just thinking, maybe you could try using a polarizer to see if it will cut through the visor glare/reflections Other than that, these are really kewl.
I was just thinking, maybe you could try using a polarizer to see if it will cut through the visor glare/reflections Other than that, these are really kewl.
Here's a few from yesterday critique welcome good or bad thanks for looking
A circular polarizer would be a hassle. For one, its one entire stop of light, and will impact auto-focus performance. Two, each time you tilt the camera a new way you'll be twiddling with the polarizer. Not worth it.
First two photos are rather nice. Third one I'm not fond of. Too much of th kart is cropped off. Try auto-levels (or adjust levels manually) to bring out the colors.
A circular polarizer would be a hassle. For one, its one entire stop of light, and will impact auto-focus performance. Two, each time you tilt the camera a new way you'll be twiddling with the polarizer. Not worth it.
First two photos are rather nice. Third one I'm not fond of. Too much of th kart is cropped off. Try auto-levels (or adjust levels manually) to bring out the colors.
The more I look at these, the more I think a levels adjustment would do wonders. Also, I forgot to mention that on overcast days like that I will often dial in some positive exposure compensation, usually +2/3. And that can make a big difference. Also bump in-camera contrast to +1 as well. If you were close enough for flash then that can be a big help as well.
The more I look at these, the more I think a levels adjustment would do wonders. Also, I forgot to mention that on overcast days like that I will often dial in some positive exposure compensation, usually +2/3. And that can make a big difference. Also bump in-camera contrast to +1 as well. If you were close enough for flash then that can be a big help as well.
Canon 10D 70-200 F4 +1.4x, these were shot in raw but i did shot jpg also set on large best quality partial metering iso 400 standard parameters but wonder if i should have used a different metering mode ( dull day turning wet )
Thanks for the help much appreciated
Gary
Canon 10D 70-200 F4 +1.4x, these were shot in raw but i did shot jpg also set on large best quality partial metering iso 400 standard parameters but wonder if i should have used a different metering mode ( dull day turning wet )
Thanks for the help much appreciated
Gary
Use sRGB color space and Parameters 1. If you shoot RAW, I prefer Canon's EOS Viewer Utility for conversion. Personally, I shoot large-fine JPG only for racing. Afterwards do an auto-levels. Search the forums here for high pass filter sharpening as the last item. I would use the default metering mode. When over-cast, dial in +2/3 of exposure compensation, else keep at zero.
Use sRGB color space and Parameters 1. If you shoot RAW, I prefer Canon's EOS Viewer Utility for conversion. Personally, I shoot large-fine JPG only for racing. Afterwards do an auto-levels. Search the forums here for high pass filter sharpening as the last item. I would use the default metering mode. When over-cast, dial in +2/3 of exposure compensation, else keep at zero.
Comments
I like em all
I was just thinking, maybe you could try using a polarizer to see if it will cut through the visor glare/reflections
Steve
just had a skylight for protection on my 70-200 F4 it was quite overcast so it would slow it down alot wouldn't it
Gary
A circular polarizer would be a hassle. For one, its one entire stop of light, and will impact auto-focus performance. Two, each time you tilt the camera a new way you'll be twiddling with the polarizer. Not worth it.
First two photos are rather nice. Third one I'm not fond of. Too much of th kart is cropped off. Try auto-levels (or adjust levels manually) to bring out the colors.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
The more I look at these, the more I think a levels adjustment would do wonders. Also, I forgot to mention that on overcast days like that I will often dial in some positive exposure compensation, usually +2/3. And that can make a big difference. Also bump in-camera contrast to +1 as well. If you were close enough for flash then that can be a big help as well.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Regards
Gary
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu
Thanks for the help much appreciated
Gary
Use sRGB color space and Parameters 1. If you shoot RAW, I prefer Canon's EOS Viewer Utility for conversion. Personally, I shoot large-fine JPG only for racing. Afterwards do an auto-levels. Search the forums here for high pass filter sharpening as the last item. I would use the default metering mode. When over-cast, dial in +2/3 of exposure compensation, else keep at zero.
A former sports shooter
Follow me at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/bjurasz/
My Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/mercphoto?ref=hdr_shop_menu