First attempt at a time lapse

eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
edited August 7, 2011 in Video
Bought an intervalometer a few weeks ago but hadn't had a chance to try it out until tonight. Went out right before sunset and set up the tripod. I had read some pointers from Vincent Laforet earlier in the day but would appreciate your thoughts on this effort.
Shot in Av mode, f/8, iso 200. Interval 8 sec.

<object width=425 height=239><param name="movie" value="http://www.orenphotography.com/ria/ShizVidz-2011030702.swf&quot; /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="flashVars" value="s=aT0xNDExNzg5OTQ3Jms9emdGWnpkOCZhPTE4MzMzNDIyX252NTNmWiZ1PWVvcmVuMQ==" /><embed src="http://www.orenphotography.com/ria/ShizVidz-2011030702.swf&quot; flashVars="s=aT0xNDExNzg5OTQ3Jms9emdGWnpkOCZhPTE4MzMzNDIyX252NTNmWiZ1PWVvcmVuMQ==" width=425 height=239 type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always"></embed></object>

Direct link (tried embed but not showing for me) http://eoren1.smugmug.com/gallery/18333422_nv53fZ#1411789947_zgFZzd8-A-LB

The water bothers me and I wonder if I would have liked the result more at f/11 and iso 100 to smooth it out. Are there other things that can be done in post to play with the water? I also think I'll aim for intervals of 4-6 seconds next time to make things smoother.

Comments

  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited August 3, 2011
    Here is last night's attempt. Not as great a sunset but smoother (I think)
    Av mode, f/11, iso 100 @ 5 second intervals

    Timelapse-Harbor-Sunset-L.jpg
  • Marc MuenchMarc Muench Registered Users Posts: 1,420 Major grins
    edited August 3, 2011
    Fun stuff!
    You might want to try throwing a ND filter on to lengthen the exposure times, this helps smooth things out. As well, to reduce flicker try stopping all the way down. What I have learned is that sharpness is not the same in motion as in stills. Therefore, dont worry about stopping all the way down! I have been bothered by flicker (variation in lens aperture of apx 1/10 stop) which I never noticed in stills but destroys TL. I am going through lenses to find ones that allows me to partially unscrew the lens just enough to disconnect contacts. This locks in the aperture. To do this, first depress the aperture preview button then, move lens. Camera will give nastygrams but if all the planets are aligned, continue working. So far, I have a few lenses that just dont work. However, during multiple attempts they do work, so it seems to be operator variation that can throw it off.

    Have fun.
  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited August 3, 2011
    Thanks for commenting Marc!
    That first attempt had horrible flicker due to slight changes in exposure but I found a solution. I use Lightroom and found an app called LRtimelapse (for PC and Mac) that will read the data on the images and write back corrections in exposure to the xmp sidecar. The second TL was done in this way - I didn't see much flicker on that one but please correct me if I'm wrong. I also saw the error in too-sharp/contrasty water and therefore used an ISO of 100 and aperture of f/11 to slow things down a bit.
    I'm planning another TL tonight but want to get one of our harbor on race night where boats will leave their moorings and return back while the sun is setting. Not sure what to do as far as settings for that. If I throw a ND on, i'll likely lose the effect of boats drifting out and into the TL. I may just try that disconnect trick with my 10-22 tonight...
    Really appreciate your input.
  • Marc MuenchMarc Muench Registered Users Posts: 1,420 Major grins
    edited August 3, 2011
    Yes, I did notice a difference. I too tried that plugin and thought it did ok. I now use GBdeflicker which works much better. However, it is $100! and requires Adobe AE which rents for $49 a month :) However, this appears to be the very best solution I have found. The next step is to add a motion blur in FCP which really smooths moving subjects out and appears as though less flicker is occurring. When you try your lens, watch carefully for at least 5 min, as I have found some begin then die hard within the first 5 min....
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited August 6, 2011
    Great job Eyal, that 2nd one is fantastic. It's a pleasure to watch, esp. full screen. I really like the clouds. Did you use a filter here? Seems like the land would be quite a bit darker than the sunlit water?
  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited August 6, 2011
    Thanks!
    No filters. Just used recovery at 100 in LR. Also painted in some + exposure on the Rockett Landing sign.
    Now if only I could get my 350D to shoot timelapses like this....
  • ThatCanonGuyThatCanonGuy Registered Users Posts: 1,778 Major grins
    edited August 6, 2011
    Ah. Yes, the recovery slider. I love playing with the sliders (in ACR 5, very similar to LR). Have you tried the LRtimelapse program with the 350D?
  • wolf911wolf911 Registered Users Posts: 273 Major grins
    edited August 7, 2011
    so how much total time are you covering here in these, 5 minutes, 20 minutes?
  • eoren1eoren1 Registered Users Posts: 2,391 Major grins
    edited August 7, 2011
    The above sequences cover about 45 minutes each

    Have been struggling with getting similar results from the 350D. See this thread:
    http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=203113
Sign In or Register to comment.