Flash: Triggers and Syncing
I have a shoot I am preparing for that I will be using 4 flashes, (2) White Lightning 1800s in Front and (2) Nikon SB-800 Speedlights in back.
I have only used my Speedlight flashes as totally remote and used my Radio Poppers for triggers or used my two Speedlights together, one as a master and one as a slave. I have not used my White Lightnings yet.
I currently only have two Radio Popper receivers. How should I set things up for this shoot? Run sync cables to the White Lightnings and have one trigger to set off the WL flashes and use one RadioPopper for one of the Nikon flashes and have the other as a slave?
Thanks in advance for the help.
MD
I have only used my Speedlight flashes as totally remote and used my Radio Poppers for triggers or used my two Speedlights together, one as a master and one as a slave. I have not used my White Lightnings yet.
I currently only have two Radio Popper receivers. How should I set things up for this shoot? Run sync cables to the White Lightnings and have one trigger to set off the WL flashes and use one RadioPopper for one of the Nikon flashes and have the other as a slave?
Thanks in advance for the help.
MD
Nikon D4, 400 2.8 AF-I, 70-200mm 2.8 VR II, 24-70 2.8
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Awesome.
Thanks Art!
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There are are a few ways to fix this. First try using a reflector or white foam core to bounce the sb800's lights to the rear of the WL. Or try lowering the ambient light, or both.
Also I don't know how the Nikon speedlites work, but with the Canon lights if you try to trigger one OCF with another OCF connected to a radio transmitter it won't work. OK the second OCF will flash but with a huge delay. The delay is about a 1/2 second or more. Not usable. So using Canon speedlites I would need two receivers or have one speedlite on camera and use the built in Canon wirerless system.
Sam
The other flashes have optical slaves, as everyone posted, they should fire unless you have alot of ambient light.
Hers is some reading
http://www.nikondigital.org/articles/cls_vanhoose/index.htm
http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/02/how-to-shoot-large-groups-with-nikon.html
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
The problem here comes from the PRE - flashes that do the measuring for the ttl...that will fire the WL's and then you get bad exposures from the spreed lights that are being used as background lights......the WL's should pick up the flash from the SB's from the front side back........with this type of set up the best thing to do is to shoot in total manual mode...........but that is how I shoot especially with any studio flash set up......
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
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I do not know if that is even possible, that is why I still shoot with a meter in hand.....I do not know of a way to get it to burst to measure the studio flashes also......then again I just do not like leaving everything up to a computer that was totally programmed by someone else.....
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com
...what type of studio flash was involved in this trial??
What do you mean by lengthen the meter time??
I just use speedlights, I have a SB700, 2 SB600, and 3 Quantaray full auto speedlights. I use the RF602'S to fire the 3 while i master/slave the SB's. I use a sync adapt to trigger the RF602 transmitter, mounted on the camera, with the SB700 on top of it. The adapter gives me full ittl and a standard sync pulse.
The time that the camera meter stays on in the viewfinder, if it shuts off the FV lock disables, and you have to fire the FV again, could be a real pain, my first attempts at this was with a couple of old single battery flash units, took like 6 sec to recharge.
It's not what you look at that matters: Its what you see!
Nikon
http://www.time2smile.smugmug.com