D7000 AF performance
So I got my third D7000 the other day and I got a chance to put it through some testing today at the zoo. I've gone through 3 because I just can't believe how pitiful the AF performance is on this thing. Continuous focus just doesn't exist. It takes close to 1/4 of a second for it to re-focus on a subject that is moving toward you and it locks the shutter release so you can't even take a shot while it's trying to acquire focus.
I can't get it to focus on anything in low light when the D300s and D700 have no issues.
The AF itself is just incredibly slow. It can't keep up with animals that are just walking fast.
I ended up with only a couple usable shots but those shots had no movement and I had to focus manually.
With the D50 and D300s pretty much every shot I took was usable. Obviously a lot were still throw-aways just due to composition and other things but they were all sharp and focus point was dead on.
I'm glad I took my D50 and D300s with me today so I could use them side by side.
I honestly think the D50 is superior in AF performance and the D300s is in a completely different league.
I just don't think there is a single thing the D7000 does better though and most functionality doesn't even come close.
Sorry the ranting post I'm just frustrated I really wanted to like this camera. I desperately wanted a smaller version of my D300s.
I do want to hear from some D300s owners (sports/wildlife) that picked up a D7000 and hear your thoughts on the comparison. Do you guys think I'm missing something here or do you feel the same way I do?
I can't get it to focus on anything in low light when the D300s and D700 have no issues.
The AF itself is just incredibly slow. It can't keep up with animals that are just walking fast.
I ended up with only a couple usable shots but those shots had no movement and I had to focus manually.
With the D50 and D300s pretty much every shot I took was usable. Obviously a lot were still throw-aways just due to composition and other things but they were all sharp and focus point was dead on.
I'm glad I took my D50 and D300s with me today so I could use them side by side.
I honestly think the D50 is superior in AF performance and the D300s is in a completely different league.
I just don't think there is a single thing the D7000 does better though and most functionality doesn't even come close.
Sorry the ranting post I'm just frustrated I really wanted to like this camera. I desperately wanted a smaller version of my D300s.
I do want to hear from some D300s owners (sports/wildlife) that picked up a D7000 and hear your thoughts on the comparison. Do you guys think I'm missing something here or do you feel the same way I do?
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@MileHighAko, where do you see the 21 point selection? I have two options. 39 point and 11 point.
I upgraded from a D80 to the D7000 and I used it to shoot some roller derby bouts, where most of the shots were people coming straight towards me, AF-C 21 point, and I ended up throwing away very few shots because a moving player was out of focus.
I think the AF in live view mode does suck though, hunts like crazy.
I don't know if it would compare to a D300s but I can't imagine that you wouldn't be able to grab a photo of an animal plodding along with the D7000.
Edit: ok you replied while I was typing, looks like you figured out the focus priority thing already. To go to 21 point, just hold down the AF button and rotate the front command dial, and you should see the number of focus points displayed on the LCD as just an array of squares. 21 point is the one where the squares sort of form a circle... I guess that's how to describe it.
my copy focuses fast and precisely.
even in low light, it focuses pretty well.
on the other hand, my d90 hunts and hunts in low light.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
@babowc, definitely doesn't hunt like the D90 did. The D90 definitely had it's issues.
I also just realized that this D7000 came with the original firmware when my last one came with 1.02. I'll upgrade that before I go on Sunday as well.
I'd still like to hear from some that also own a D300s. Maybe part of my problem is I was just expecting too much out of the D7000 from the get go.
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Of course I do say this assuming that it is not just the D7000's fault, but also yours. Because personally I've tested the D7000 side by side with the D300 and D700, and have found it to be incredibly accurate and snappy. Yes, the 51 point AF system is a little better, especially in the D700 and D3. But it's not "pitiful", not by any means. I could only force the D7000 to "choke" when shooting in abysmal darkness at ISO 3200 and f/1.4, hand-held at medium close distances on a subject with less than optimal detail to focus on. So yeah, that's D3 territory, really. Any other time, such as broad daylight or general indoors or decent golden hour light; the D7000 performs quite amazingly for me. It is of course possible that you've got a lemon, but three times in a row has me guessing that you simply haven't mastered it yet. Autofocus is like prostate cancer- guys REALLY don't like to admit if they don't think they can tackle it. But seriously, it's NOT a simple technique anymore. I've counted at least forty different focusing parameters on some of the newer cameras, it's just ridiculous. So my advice is, put some time into the camera. Also of course, don't expect it to be magic. If you want to flawlessly track joggers or gymnasts or something, get a used D3 for $3K and you'll never need another camera in your life. ;-)
=Matt=
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I have 0 issues with the F4/F5/D50/D80/D300/D300s/D700/D3/D3s. It's not me. My D300s and D700 already perform flawlessly. They are my primary bodies. I have no need for a D3 or D3s. I want something lighter and smaller to use when I don't feel like lugging around the all metal larger bodies. IF there is something SO different about this D7000's AF system and I just need to learn then I have no interest in learning it. I'll just stick with my D50 when I want something lighter.
This isn't as big of an issue but does the buffer really only hold 6 shots? Mine stops shooting after 6 shots on lossless compressed 14-bit. I am using a slow card so it is completely buffer limited. I thought I'd be able to get over 10 though.
I think that the tips you have been offered would take maybe 5 minutes to learn and maybe 2 minutes, or less, to implement. Is that too much?
(Please read the above as an encouragement to try the changes. If you have any difficulty, we're here to help.)
I believe that 6 shots might be the case for the D7000 and a "very" slow SD card, but with a very fast card, like a Class 10 card, people are seeing 10 shots to fill the buffer. The D7000 is also much faster than the D300 in 14 bit mode RAW. (Consider using Ultra High Speed (UHS-I) rated cards with the D7000 camera for best performance.)
The D7000 is obviously not designed for a sports/action application if you need a deep shot buffer. For short bursts it should not be too bad.
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The suggestions aren't things I need to learn. They are things I've used for years on my other Nikon bodies. The only thing I didn't realize was that all the AF selection points weren't configurable through the menu AND manual control. On all the previous Nikon bodies they manual control and menu driven control had the same configuration. Though I wouldn't be too happy if I had to reduce the number of AF points just to boost the AF performance. I would expect it to perform the same no matter what focus points were active/being used.
As I said though I'm going out again tomorrow to play around with it some more.
14-bit processing does suck on the D300s. That is a big win on the D7000. Can't wait for that to be implemented on the D400.
Yea I just went out for a few minutes tonight with some 30mb/s cards and didn't have any issues hitting 10 shots. I like that I can hit 10+ shots on the D300s without a card though. Not a real issue though since I typically don't burst more than 3 or 4 shots anyway.
=Matt=
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In my opinion, shooting action / casual stuff in 14bit lossless or un-compressed is like using a bazooka to kill a rabbit. Or like using a view camera to snap your Facebook profile pic. It's just not necessary. Especially if you need speed, just pop that sucker down to 12bit, compressed, and rock it out. Nail your exposures and you'll be juuuuust fine with dynamic range. Honestly I only crank up the RAW settings when I'm shooting epic landscapes from a tripod at a rate of 1 click per ~5 minutes.
But of course, those are just personal standards and I know not everybody will agree. I'm just saying, I've done just fine for hundreds of thousands of images in compressed 12bit RAW... For most of my work, it's already annoying enough that Nikon is departing from 12 megapixels without offering an sRAW type format. If the D800 is more than 16 megapixels, I'm not gonna be happy at all. :-P
=Matt=
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Hi. I just got a new D7000, so I was reading this thread to get advice on some aspects of the set-up. I am trying to figure out which focus area mode to choose when I shoot hockey pictures. I got confused by number of focus points 39 versus focus point selection 21...are those both set at the same time, if so, I am confused about what that represents, or are you saying that sometimes you use 39, sometimes 21? Thanks! I hope I don't sound too newbish with these questions!
So the D7000 is a little different from Nikon cameras I've owned and currently own. There are two places to set the AF point selection.
For action shots you want to be shooting in continuous. So to switch between Auto, Continuous and Single you push the little button in the middle of the Focus mode selector right below the lens release and turn the main dial. If you hold that same button and turn the secondary dial you scroll through the AF modes. Now, I'm not sure what the difference is on the menu driven selection. It seems to be a limit on the active focus points. If you go into the custom setting menu it's a6. Number of focus points. Your options here are 39 and 11. I think selecting 11 physically limits the number of focus points the af sensor has to deal with thus reducing the processing overhead. I found the best performance to be limiting to 11 focus points in the menu and setting the AF mode to 39 point area or 21 point area on the dial.
These options are available separately from the decision between 39 and 11 AF points actually. That's a completely different setting, basically the option of 11 points is just so that you can move around the viewfinder faster. (If you've ever used the 51 point AF system, you know how annoying it can be to have to click your focus point ten times to get it where you want!)
=Matt=
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