Frustrated using flash

GretchenGretchen Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
edited November 12, 2011 in People
Need some help! Today I shot a Violin recital at an Assisted Living center and had a terrible time using the flash. In almost every photo I ended up with an annoying shadow. The conditions were not ideal but what could I have done to avoid this? I forgot to bring the difuser, but don't think it would have done much good. The recital was held in the theater and the white screen on the wall didn't help! Any C&C is appreciated.

DSC0315-M.jpg

Link:
http://www.gretchengilesphotography.com/Music/Violin-Recital-06NOV2011/19946792_hBPMvJ password is: ruda

Thanks!
http://blog.gretchengilesphotography.com/

Comments

  • adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2011
    This is what happens when you have your flash on-camera in portrait mode.
    Assuming you aren't going to set up remote lights:

    1. Try bouncing the flash. It will drain your batter more, but what looks like a big white ceiling becomes a huge softbox. Bounce off to the side some to get directional lighting. Flag the flash some for even more. Neil Van Niekirk's website (www.neilvn.com) has a lot of pointers on bouncing flash. There are others as well.

    2. If you can't do that, get a bracket that gets the flash back above the camera. This will keep the shadows behind the subject.

    3. If you are using your pop-up flash, Get a speedlite (:D). If not, keep in landscape and crop in post....

    Hope that helps...
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  • GretchenGretchen Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited November 6, 2011
    Thanks for the feedback!

    I did use a Speedlight SB60 and I did bounce the light off the ceiling when I could. The camera was set to P (program mode).

    I will keep trying and will definitely take a look at the website you mention.

    Thanks!
    http://blog.gretchengilesphotography.com/
  • adbsgicomadbsgicom Registered Users Posts: 3,615 Major grins
    edited November 6, 2011
    Try bouncing away from your subject. You waste a lot of light, but the ceiling is diffuse, so you will get forward scatter of very soft light.
    - Andrew

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  • FoquesFoques Registered Users Posts: 1,951 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    When I shot in clubs, I used a bounce card and/or diffuser.
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  • zoomerzoomer Registered Users Posts: 3,688 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    I use a flash bracket and keep the flash pointing up into the ceiling, with a diffuser on the front of the flash, shoot as high an iso as you can get away without adding noise.
    In a situation like this better to not use a flash, turn on all the lights open all the windows, use a larger f stop, and increase iso.
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  • GretchenGretchen Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    zoomer wrote: »
    I use a flash bracket and keep the flash pointing up into the ceiling, with a diffuser on the front of the flash, shoot as high an iso as you can get away without adding noise.
    In a situation like this better to not use a flash, turn on all the lights open all the windows, use a larger f stop, and increase iso.

    That's funny. rolleyes1.gif In other words move outside! I don't think the "senior set" would have appreciated that. I think the lack of the diffuser caused some of the issue and now that you say it, ISO.
    http://blog.gretchengilesphotography.com/
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    bounce bounce bounce. your light quality will improve tremendously.
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  • GretchenGretchen Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    Qarik wrote: »
    bounce bounce bounce. your light quality will improve tremendously.

    I promise to.
    http://blog.gretchengilesphotography.com/
  • rpcrowerpcrowe Registered Users Posts: 733 Major grins
    edited November 7, 2011
    Bounce with a diffuser reflector
    Gretchen wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback!

    I did use a Speedlight SB60 and I did bounce the light off the ceiling when I could. The camera was set to P (program mode).

    I will keep trying and will definitely take a look at the website you mention.

    Thanks!

    It looks like in this image that the direct flash was on camera because shadows like that appear when the flash is on camera and the camera is rotated to the portrait orientation.

    I always use a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro ( www.dembflashproducts.com ) which has an adjustable angle FlipIt reflector that allows me to shoot when the ceiling is too high or to dark to effectively bounce the flash.

    Mounting your flash on a Stroboframe Camera Flip Bracket will keep the flash above the lens snd will also minimize the shadows. I got my Stroboframe Camera Flip Bracket for less than $20 (USD) on eBay. They are frequently advertised on that site for between $20 and $30. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stroboframe-CameraFlip-flash-bracket-/270845857707?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item3f0fabcfab

    Here is a shot from about the same distance as your example...
    1245211231_aEf5x-L.jpg
  • bmoreshooterbmoreshooter Registered Users Posts: 210 Major grins
    edited November 9, 2011
    You also have to take into concideration that you are shooting from a very low angle. That puts the shadows in the worse possible place. It also makes it difficult to determine the angle for the flash bounce.
  • PixterPixter Registered Users Posts: 1 Beginner grinner
    edited November 10, 2011
    rubber band/tape some T.P. over your flash it will diffuse the light
  • GretchenGretchen Registered Users Posts: 57 Big grins
    edited November 12, 2011
    Better? It's a work in progress
    This time I had the diffuser with me, no bracket yet. These were taken upstairs in a bar and the light was generally even. Oh, and I forgot to bump up the ISO.
    1.
    DSC0431-M.jpg

    2.
    DSC0443-M.jpg

    3.
    DSC0424-M.jpg

    4.
    DSC0427-M.jpg
    http://blog.gretchengilesphotography.com/
  • D3SshooterD3Sshooter Registered Users Posts: 1,187 Major grins
    edited November 12, 2011
    there are ways to sort it out
    Here is what I always do:

    1. I always use I-TTL in those cases.
    2. Bounce the light of a wall or ceiling (make sure its white, otherwise do not bounce).
    3. Check what lights are used for the ambient light and add a filter to your flash unit.
    4. Lets say its Bulb ambient light, then place a bulb color filter (SB-900) and place the WB on Bulb. This way you get good colors as well outside the reach of the flash.
    5. Increase you ISO to the max, but still acceptable in terms of noise (depends on your camera).
    6. I always work manual.
    7. Measure the light on the subject that you want to portray, use spot measure on your camera and target a light spot (face or shirt).
    8. Adjust your camera (ISO, F or shutter) until you are 1, 1/2, or 1/3 underexposed.
    9. The the picture.

    Here is what happens, the Flash unit will fire a pre-flash. This will be measured by your camera and passed to the flash unit with adjusted values of power. Then the real Flash triggers of and you have a great picture.

    Remember you can let the background light play as well, by extending the shutter time.

    REgards D3Sshooter
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