technical question
basflt
Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
i dont expect an answer , but i try anyway
i have am SBr200 and an SU800 [ or , a Nikon macro flash set , means an R1C1 ]
works fine , but ...
these batteries run down too fast , so ,
i want to power them from camera
there exist SC-30 cables , but
they are seldom and expensive [150 bucks for a wire is not cheap ] , so
i want to do some DIY
Q ; does anyone know the pin-layout ?
they have 8 pins and a metal rim
Q ; if i use a cable ,either DIY or factory , do i still need the batteries ?
thanks for looking ...
i have am SBr200 and an SU800 [ or , a Nikon macro flash set , means an R1C1 ]
works fine , but ...
these batteries run down too fast , so ,
i want to power them from camera
there exist SC-30 cables , but
they are seldom and expensive [150 bucks for a wire is not cheap ] , so
i want to do some DIY
Q ; does anyone know the pin-layout ?
they have 8 pins and a metal rim
Q ; if i use a cable ,either DIY or factory , do i still need the batteries ?
thanks for looking ...
0
Comments
Nikon describes the SC-30 cord as, "Connect the SU-800 and SBR200 to enable close-up flash shooting when using a camera not compatible with the Creative Lighting System.
Allows for TTL flash exposure control of two SB-R200 Speedlights with non–i-TTL cameras."
As such, I do not think that the SC-30 carries electrical power, just the TTL control signals.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
but , im not sure about it [ i read these sites too ]
with the original cable , the flashes go on and off with the commander unit , buttons are disabled , so ...
my goal is/ was to get power to the flash-units , so i dont need to recharge the batteries every dozen shots
[ if Canon can , why not Nikon ]
any tips , links and suggestion are welcome , useful or not
[ especially on the pins of the plugs ]
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
but you talk about SB800
SU800 is an commander-unit that trigger the wireless SB200 speedlights via infrared
only plug is for SC-30 cord ( 2 of em )
these plugs have 8 pins
so , i was hoping 2 of those could be used for charging current [ but i guess not ]
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4803/R1C1-Wireless-Close-Up-Speedlight-System.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.Overview
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
i use rechargeable ones of unknown brand
normal batteries last a bit longer , but not much
since they cost the same over here ,the choice is easy ( 15dollar for one , and i need three )
i guess , my only option is to buy a bunch of extra batteries
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
better than R1C1 ????
witch one ????
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Oh I don't know I was joking.
I use a Sunpak TTL compatible flash that I bought discounted for USD$100 and it lasts quite awhile on 4 AA's. I use the best available low self discharge AA batteries so they're high amperage and can put out juice for flashes.
Maha Imedion and GP Recyko make the best AA NiMH rechargable, and GP Recyko makes the best AAA's.
Maybe you could create some kind of rechargeable battery pack if you could match the voltage?
i thought you was aiming at different speedlights that can mount the ring fittings
i realize there are dozens of flashes to choose from
but , this is a typical macro-setup , normal units create shadows from tipping the lens
i would like to keep using it
its just that it runs down on current so fast , thats my only problem
thanks for help anyway , appreciated
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
used on D7000 , sometimes D90
i cant believe the SU800 commander would give a problem , as it uses same info as buit in TTL
maybe i need to experiment with settings , avoid full flashes ?
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Shooting on manual would indeed drain your battery much quicker... I never shoot manual unless absolutely necessary
I get it, your using full flash power due to aperture being closed down I'll bet. What batteries are you using presently?
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
what is a 123?
edit: I see now thats a battery. And one I have no experience with.
I had the same question.
i use TTL , so i dont know how much flash is used ( good point , angevin1 , as this is true )
ASAP im gonne experiment with lower exposure settings , perhaps also manual mode to see if it makes much different
thanks everyone for taking time to reply / help .
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
I have read and seen that TTL will mos-def put out the greatest light from flashes, even over manual: weird but true. I hope your issues are simple and not some leaking capacitor or some such!
would be strange if both were leaking or damaged
as for TTL ; i believe that , because TTL uses pre-flashes before the actual flash
i will try different settings first of all
thanks for support
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.