technical question

basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
edited December 2, 2011 in Accessories
i dont expect an answer , but i try anyway

i have am SBr200 and an SU800 [ or , a Nikon macro flash set , means an R1C1 ]

works fine , but ...
these batteries run down too fast , so ,
i want to power them from camera

there exist SC-30 cables , but
they are seldom and expensive [150 bucks for a wire is not cheap ] , so
i want to do some DIY

Q ; does anyone know the pin-layout ?
they have 8 pins and a metal rim

Q ; if i use a cable ,either DIY or factory , do i still need the batteries ?

thanks for looking ...

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,133 moderator
    edited November 27, 2011
    I moved this from the Camera forum as this is more of an accessory question.

    Nikon describes the SC-30 cord as, "Connect the SU-800 and SBR200 to enable close-up flash shooting when using a camera not compatible with the Creative Lighting System.
    Allows for TTL flash exposure control of two SB-R200 Speedlights with non–i-TTL cameras."

    As such, I do not think that the SC-30 carries electrical power, just the TTL control signals.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 27, 2011
    thanks Ziggy , thats just what i was wandering about

    but , im not sure about it [ i read these sites too ]
    with the original cable , the flashes go on and off with the commander unit , buttons are disabled , so ...

    my goal is/ was to get power to the flash-units , so i dont need to recharge the batteries every dozen shots
    [ if Canon can , why not Nikon ]

    any tips , links and suggestion are welcome , useful or not
    [ especially on the pins of the plugs ]
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 29, 2011
    thanks for reply Seymore

    but you talk about SB800
    SU800 is an commander-unit that trigger the wireless SB200 speedlights via infrared

    only plug is for SC-30 cord ( 2 of em )

    these plugs have 8 pins
    so , i was hoping 2 of those could be used for charging current [ but i guess not ]


    http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4803/R1C1-Wireless-Close-Up-Speedlight-System.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.Overview
  • ZerodogZerodog Registered Users Posts: 1,480 Major grins
    edited November 29, 2011
    What batteries are you using? That can have a huge impact on performance of your flash system.
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    it only accept 123A
    i use rechargeable ones of unknown brand
    normal batteries last a bit longer , but not much
    since they cost the same over here ,the choice is easy ( 15dollar for one , and i need three )

    i guess , my only option is to buy a bunch of extra batteries
  • OverfocusedOverfocused Registered Users Posts: 1,068 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    or a new flash... :)
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    ^^
    better than R1C1 ????
    witch one ????
  • OverfocusedOverfocused Registered Users Posts: 1,068 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    basflt wrote: »
    ^^
    better than R1C1 ????
    witch one ????


    Oh I don't know I was joking. :D

    I use a Sunpak TTL compatible flash that I bought discounted for USD$100 and it lasts quite awhile on 4 AA's. I use the best available low self discharge AA batteries so they're high amperage and can put out juice for flashes.

    Maha Imedion and GP Recyko make the best AA NiMH rechargable, and GP Recyko makes the best AAA's.

    Maybe you could create some kind of rechargeable battery pack if you could match the voltage?
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    did not consider it as joke , just curious
    i thought you was aiming at different speedlights that can mount the ring fittings

    i realize there are dozens of flashes to choose from
    but , this is a typical macro-setup , normal units create shadows from tipping the lens

    i would like to keep using it
    its just that it runs down on current so fast , thats my only problem

    thanks for help anyway , appreciated nod.gif
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    I think you have a problem, either with your flash, or the batteries you're using. I use the Sb200 speedlights on the macro ring, and those 123 batteries seem to last me forever. headscratch.gif
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited November 30, 2011
    I use the pop-up flash to control the SB200s though, and not an SU800. Are you shooting with a D3?
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    thanks Icebear
    used on D7000 , sometimes D90
    i cant believe the SU800 commander would give a problem , as it uses same info as buit in TTL

    maybe i need to experiment with settings , avoid full flashes ?
  • OverfocusedOverfocused Registered Users Posts: 1,068 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    basflt wrote: »
    thanks Icebear
    used on D7000 , sometimes D90
    i cant believe the SU800 commander would give a problem , as it uses same info as buit in TTL

    maybe i need to experiment with settings , avoid full flashes ?

    Shooting on manual would indeed drain your battery much quicker... I never shoot manual unless absolutely necessary
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    basflt wrote: »
    thanks Icebear
    used on D7000 , sometimes D90
    i cant believe the SU800 commander would give a problem , as it uses same info as buit in TTL

    maybe i need to experiment with settings , avoid full flashes ?


    I get it, your using full flash power due to aperture being closed down I'll bet. What batteries are you using presently?
    tom wise
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    I don't care what power he's blasting those SB200s at. There is no way those little units could drain a decent 123 in only a dozen shots, even at full power. No way, no how.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    Icebear wrote: »
    I don't care what power he's blasting those SB200s at. There is no way those little units could drain a decent 123 in only a dozen shots, even at full power. No way, no how.


    what is a 123?

    edit: I see now thats a battery. And one I have no experience with.
    tom wise
  • ZerodogZerodog Registered Users Posts: 1,480 Major grins
    edited December 1, 2011
    angevin1 wrote: »
    what is a 123?

    edit: I see now thats a battery. And one I have no experience with.

    I had the same question.
  • OverfocusedOverfocused Registered Users Posts: 1,068 Major grins
    edited December 2, 2011
    CR123 is the only battery I can think of.
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited December 2, 2011
    the battery type = 123A
    i use TTL , so i dont know how much flash is used ( good point , angevin1 , as this is true )
    ASAP im gonne experiment with lower exposure settings , perhaps also manual mode to see if it makes much different

    thanks everyone for taking time to reply / help .
  • angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited December 2, 2011
    basflt wrote: »
    the battery type = 123A
    i use TTL , so i dont know how much flash is used ( good point , angevin1 , as this is true )
    ASAP im gonne experiment with lower exposure settings , perhaps also manual mode to see if it makes much different

    thanks everyone for taking time to reply / help .

    I have read and seen that TTL will mos-def put out the greatest light from flashes, even over manual: weird but true. I hope your issues are simple and not some leaking capacitor or some such!
    tom wise
  • basfltbasflt Registered Users Posts: 1,882 Major grins
    edited December 2, 2011
    no , as both left and right run down about the same time
    would be strange if both were leaking or damaged

    as for TTL ; i believe that , because TTL uses pre-flashes before the actual flash

    i will try different settings first of all

    thanks for support
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited December 2, 2011
    i-PXTJG36-L.jpg
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Sign In or Register to comment.