New Glass Options - What would you get in my situation?

Mark1616Mark1616 Registered Users Posts: 319 Major grins
edited December 16, 2011 in Cameras
I've just sold my Sigma 24-70mm f2.8 which was my backup lens to my 24-105mm f4 Canon as it really wasn't performing well enough (never had to use it in anger, but if I had to the results wouldn't have been nearly the same standard) so I'm looking at complementary/backup options.

First, this is what I have and my thinking.

My main 2 bodies are both 5DmkIIs I also have a 5D and 7D in case one of the main bodies went down.

Lenses, 90% of the time I use a combo of the 24-105mm f4 and 70-200mm f2.8 IS L. I also have a Sigma 50mm f1.4, Canon 85mm f1.8, Sigma 105mm f2.8 and Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 - For crop I have a Sigma 17-70mm f2.8-4.5 and Tamron 17-50mm f2.8.

I want to avoid using the 7D and wide lenses if at all possible, so that is an in case of emergency thing.

OK, so as I use the 24-105 and 70-200 so much, I want to ensure that if something went wrong with either I could still shoot my the sort of way I like.

So, obviously the simple options is to get the same glass as backups, or possibly a 24-70mm f2.8 instead of the 24-105. This is a little boring though as doesn't allow me to bring anything else to the party so I'm considering the option of 17-40mm f4 and a 135mm f2. OK, this misses off the 200mm, but I could use the 120-300mm for times when I really must go long, I have no hand holding issues with that lens (I'm 6'6" and not small), however, might get a few looks from the people I'm shooting as it is a beast. I think for most things I should be fine with 135mm at the long end, can always pop that on the 7D if needed.

So does my way of thinking work or have I lost the plot? If it is the latter, what would you suggest in my situation - medical help is not an option?!

Thanks smiley.gif

I'm here to learn so please feel free to give me constructive criticism to help me become the photographer I desire to be.

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,118 moderator
    edited December 14, 2011
    Lenses with an f2.8 aperture do activate the high-precision capabilities of the center AF sensor on your 5D MKII and 7D cameras at least. (Not sure about the 5D.)

    An f2.8 aperture also allows better DOF control and better background separation than an f4 aperture, given the same circumstances otherwise.

    Anecdotal evidence also indicates that an f2.8 aperture lens will allow AF at lower light levels.


    The EF 135mm, f2L USM is spectacular on the 5D MKII, for those situations where it's use is indicated.


    The Ef 17-40mm, f4L is also wonderful on the 5D MKII, and it's a fairly standard zoom length on the 7D. Not my first choice in an indoor event lens, but a very good lens to have.


    Some claim that the older EF 28-70, f2.8L USM is sharper overall than the current EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM.

    I am still using the very old EF 28-80mm, f2.8-f4L USM and I like it a lot. (Oddly I don't detect any AF slowdown at the long end and f4. Sadly, the 28-80L is no longer serviced by Canon, so I can't really recommend it.)
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • rainbowrainbow Registered Users Posts: 2,765 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2011
    I have a 5D and a 40D.

    I use the 17 - 40 as my preferred walkaround "street" lens, even though I have the 24 - 105 and the 24 - 70. The 135L is a great lens -- love it for everything that this FL is used for (over my 70-200 f/4IS.

    So I agree with your assessment and thinking. Both these will add to your current lineup AND serve as backups (or turn the other lenses into backups!).
  • NeilLNeilL Registered Users Posts: 4,201 Major grins
    edited December 14, 2011
    Just curious about why you are against using the 7D with WA? A crop sensor eliminates some of the edge loss of IQ.

    Neil
    "Snow. Ice. Slow!" "Half-winter. Half-moon. Half-asleep!"

    http://www.behance.net/brosepix
  • Mark1616Mark1616 Registered Users Posts: 319 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2011
    Thanks everyone, all helps :)

    Neil, mainly because I don't want APS-C specific lenses, that's a waste when I'm mainly using the 2 x 5D2's also it means an extra body to have out rather than in the car. I can easily carry the spare lens on me so it needs to be able to just pop on the body if there is an issue.

    I'm here to learn so please feel free to give me constructive criticism to help me become the photographer I desire to be.

  • Matthew SavilleMatthew Saville Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 3,352 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2011
    Mark1616 wrote: »
    Thanks everyone, all helps :)

    Neil, mainly because I don't want APS-C specific lenses, that's a waste when I'm mainly using the 2 x 5D2's also it means an extra body to have out rather than in the car. I can easily carry the spare lens on me so it needs to be able to just pop on the body if there is an issue.

    It's not too much of a waste if you get a lens like the Tokina 11-16, which works BEAUTIFULLY on the 5D mk2 at 16mm. In fact it's the ONLY way to hit 16mm f/2.8 without spending an arm and a leg on the 16-35, which is actually equal or worse for sharpness at the edges. But, it's your call! ;-)

    =Matt=
    My first thought is always of light.” – Galen Rowell
    My SmugMug PortfolioMy Astro-Landscape Photo BlogDgrin Weddings Forum
  • NeilLNeilL Registered Users Posts: 4,201 Major grins
    edited December 15, 2011
    Mark1616 wrote: »
    Thanks everyone, all helps :)

    Neil, mainly because I don't want APS-C specific lenses, that's a waste when I'm mainly using the 2 x 5D2's also it means an extra body to have out rather than in the car. I can easily carry the spare lens on me so it needs to be able to just pop on the body if there is an issue.


    With Canon, EF lenses can be used on crop bodies as well as FF etc.

    Neil
    "Snow. Ice. Slow!" "Half-winter. Half-moon. Half-asleep!"

    http://www.behance.net/brosepix
  • Mark1616Mark1616 Registered Users Posts: 319 Major grins
    edited December 16, 2011
    NeilL wrote: »
    With Canon, EF lenses can be used on crop bodies as well as FF etc.

    Neil

    Sure but then they wouldn't be really wide angle so the benefit is lost if the desire was for wide angle. I use my 24-105 on the 7D as for a lot of things that makes a nice walk around range so not against crop bodies at all, just for weddings a wide angle on a FF body makes more sense as I can get that wide angle with any of my 3 FF bodies rather than just getting a wide angle which will only work on the 7D or my wife's 500D.

    I think where I'm at now is trying to work out if the 17-40 is strong enough wide open to be used in low light if needed.

    I'm here to learn so please feel free to give me constructive criticism to help me become the photographer I desire to be.

  • Matthew SavilleMatthew Saville Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 3,352 Major grins
    edited December 16, 2011
    Mark1616 wrote: »
    Sure but then they wouldn't be really wide angle so the benefit is lost if the desire was for wide angle. I use my 24-105 on the 7D as for a lot of things that makes a nice walk around range so not against crop bodies at all, just for weddings a wide angle on a FF body makes more sense as I can get that wide angle with any of my 3 FF bodies rather than just getting a wide angle which will only work on the 7D or my wife's 500D.

    I think where I'm at now is trying to work out if the 17-40 is strong enough wide open to be used in low light if needed.

    Again, check out the 11-16 Tokina. I dunno which FF bodies you have, but the 7D is faster than ALL of them unless you have the 1DX. ;-) For in-your-face action shots, the 7D is it.

    Just one reason why I personally like the notion of ultra-wide on a crop sensor. And like I said, if you really need 16mm ultra-wide on full-frame, the Tokina 11-16 mounts beautifully and resolves very well even on the 5D mk2...

    Honestly I just don't care for any of the Canon L ultra-wides. The 16-35mk 1 and mk2 have weird issues with corner sharpness and focus shift. The 17-40 is good, but at f/4 (and not really sharp in the corners till f/11 or f/16) ...it's more of a landscape photography lens. Ironically, in my opinion the sharpest ultra-wide option on Canon is the 10-22 EF-S, if you get a good copy. (Although since it's not a third-party lens, it won't mount on a FF body like the Tokina will.)


    Just more food for thought!
    =Matt=
    My first thought is always of light.” – Galen Rowell
    My SmugMug PortfolioMy Astro-Landscape Photo BlogDgrin Weddings Forum
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