Three for C&C please

Snowgirl

Working away at it but still having major focusing problems. :cry

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

#1 Christmas ribbon - hand held


#2 First attempt at a focus stack, hand held, 4 images, edited in CS5


#3 Same item shot with Macro setting on a Canon PS95

zoomer

Not a macro expert....
Point and shoots have much more macro depth of field than dslr's so focus will be easier.
Are you making sure everything is solid, tripod with camera and subject lock focus on the spot you want. If that is not working check your lens for front or back focus.
If no tripod or your subject is moving, use the same settings you would use for shooting flying birds. With such a thin depth of field the slightest movement will take your subject out of the plane of focus so focus needs to track.

If you can perfect focus stacking that is money....have seen some Amazing dslr macro shots using that technique.

Snowgirl

zoomer wrote: »

Not a macro expert....
Point and shoots have much more macro depth of field than dslr's so focus will be easier.
Are you making sure everything is solid, tripod with camera and subject lock focus on the spot you want. If that is not working check your lens for front or back focus.
If no tripod or your subject is moving, use the same settings you would use for shooting flying birds. With such a thin depth of field the slightest movement will take your subject out of the plane of focus so focus needs to track.

If you can perfect focus stacking that is money....have seen some Amazing dslr macro shots using that technique.

I shot the first two with a DSLR and an MPE65mmf/2.8 set as follows: ISO1600, f/5.6, 1/100 (ribbon)
and same setting for focus stack but with f/2.8. The third image was shot with the P&S just for comparison sake.

I have a focus rail but haven't tried it yet (this is all new to me) so everything at this point is an experiment

Thanks for taking the time to comment.

zoomer

Tripod F16, this will give you a bit more depth of field and you can decrease the ISO, on a static object.
It will be hard to beat a good P&S for depth of field....and associated apparent ease of focusing.

Snowgirl

Thanks. I'll give it a try. the trick is also lighting. I have a ring flash to work with but I'm trying to deal with focus first. So much to learn.

zoomer wrote: »

Tripod F16, this will give you a bit more depth of field and you can decrease the ISO, on a static object.
It will be hard to beat a good P&S for depth of field....and associated apparent ease of focusing.

Lord Vetinari

Not bad with the focus but as suggested above you need to increase the DOF a bit with smaller apertures, F11 is fairly normal for 1:1
Brian v.

basflt

Snowgirl wrote: »

Thanks. I'll give it a try. the trick is also lighting. I have a ring flash to work with but I'm trying to deal with focus first. So much to learn.

i advice to always use flash
you will get more DOF while the TTL-system controls the amount for you
with macro , natural light is very hard to do without compromises
( tell me if im wrong , Brian )

Snowgirl

Thank you all. Back to the drawing board - so to speak. Luckily, I'm a lifelong learning addict, 'cause this looks like a lifelong learning project for sure!

Snowgirl

Quick question. Assuming I am using a smaller aperture (e.g. f/11 or more) for a greater depth of field, AND I'm going to use either my ring flash or my 580EXII off-camera and with a remote trigger, given the proximity of the end of the lens to the object I am shooting, how can I see to focus? It will be too dark until the flash goes off? What am I missing here?

basflt

two things

- your flash has an auto-focus lamp (LED)
although you cannot use auto-focus , you can still use the lamp
its very useful & shuts off before the flash

- just shoot , focus or not
it cost nothing

- more than f11 is overkill
i use f11 .ss1/200 at 1xmag till 2x mag
at 3x or 4x i try f9 also at 1/200
TTL does the light control for you

hope it make sense , just try it

Snowgirl

Thanks for that. I have tomorrow's project in mind now.