Nikon D300 Tint Shift?
EngineerPhotog
Registered Users Posts: 3 Beginner grinner
I shot a local football game and noticed something I've never seen before and wondered if anyone else has seen this.
I am shooting with a Nikon D300, RAW, ISO 2500 with a 70-200 lens at around 105, f2.8, 1/250s manual. Focus was in continuous mode and I was shooting in Ch (Continuous High). When I took single shots, the color was fine, but as it started firing with the shutter button pegged, this color shift developed. I made sure I wasn't in Auto White Balance, thinking that was part of the problem. I also disabled Active-D, and High ISO NR to no avail.
I wanted to post 3 pics so you can see the orange hue shift from the right side of one pic to the left side, then back again and sometimes right up the middle.
Any ideas, or am I just asking too much of the D300 in such low light, high speed conditions?
I am shooting with a Nikon D300, RAW, ISO 2500 with a 70-200 lens at around 105, f2.8, 1/250s manual. Focus was in continuous mode and I was shooting in Ch (Continuous High). When I took single shots, the color was fine, but as it started firing with the shutter button pegged, this color shift developed. I made sure I wasn't in Auto White Balance, thinking that was part of the problem. I also disabled Active-D, and High ISO NR to no avail.
I wanted to post 3 pics so you can see the orange hue shift from the right side of one pic to the left side, then back again and sometimes right up the middle.
Any ideas, or am I just asking too much of the D300 in such low light, high speed conditions?
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This is a post on sports shooter and there are some other threads on dgrin.
Not that it will help this problem, but I might push the SS up to 1/500 at a minimum for action sports. 1/250 is mighty low...
I 2nd that comment . . . 500/sec is about the lowest I will go when shooting sports. Try upping your ISO a little more and increasing the SS.
I know this may be counterintuitive, but you're really better off shooting in AWB under this kind of lighting. Really.
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Yep, true. AWB and Raw will give you the greatest chance of salvaging a badly illuminated and colored shot. What I really hate are those shots that have a color gradient across them; you know, red on one side, green/yellow on the other. Really hard to correct!
You might be just the target market for LR4!
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Now I have evidence to show my wife why I need a D4! :-)
Good on you if she buys into that. Just don't let her read this thread, 'cause your reasoning is bogus. The only way to avoid the "cycle-shift" is to shoot longer exposures, not shorter. Still, it's worth a try! :ivar
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
Actually, the lights aren't in harmony with your shutter; they're just doing their thing cycling on and off sixty times per second. That means that a single cycle is about 1/60 of a second. If you shoot at 1/250 of a second, you'll capture about 1/4 of a single cycle. If that 1/4 of a cycle is centered around the peak, you're golden; if it's centered around the trough, you're hosed. Just random chance.
Hmmm...I wonder if there's a market for a simple device that could measure the light cycling and sync your camera accordingly...Technically it wouldn't be too hard.