Darn Lights

nathgreconathgreco Registered Users Posts: 13 Big grins
edited February 29, 2012 in Sports
Hi all,

I'm not sure if this is the right place, ut I am looking for a fix for this lights,

I shoot Wrestling in Adelaide australia once a month and occasionally I will get a shot with bursting lights

they have 6 lights ( 3 0n each side of the ring) that are on during the matches, these lights are multi coloured icolor 4 lghts http://www.soundivision.com.au/products.asp?id=123
each have 4 500 w halogen globes, that may change colour through the night but is manly white

my camera settings on my 500d are : Tv mode,iso between 16000 and 32000, shutter between 1/500 white balance is Tungsten

can someone help? if not an someone point me in the right direction
Thanks
Nath

Comments

  • ZerodogZerodog Registered Users Posts: 1,480 Major grins
    edited February 22, 2012
    You are shooting straight into bright lights? Not sure what you are asking. This is a tough situation. The best thing to do is position youself so you minimize the chance of shooting straight at these lights and the lights do their job of illuminating the subject. In the end, this shot, is really cool. It might not have been what you were going for. But I dig it. You are pushing the boundaries of your camera and what is possible with available light. When doing this you need to do your best to position yourself the best you can to make whatever light there is work for you. The last fight i shot there was 1 main bank of lights . I made sure I was not shooting directly into it. I was at about a 90 degree angle too it. It was not ideal, but it was good as I was going to get. If were to compromise my position on the cage due to a cop that needed more room, the night would have been a total loss. In situations like this, position is everything.

    Do you have some more shots? This one is cool I want to see more.
  • nathgreconathgreco Registered Users Posts: 13 Big grins
    edited February 22, 2012
    Thanks Zerodog, I'll just have to play with my position, these lights are on 2 sides of the ring so I'll have a play next month,

    I post my photos to www.riotcityphotos.com and on Riot City Wrestling's Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/riotcitywrestling

    I am not a pro and am still learning as I go, i thought there might be some sort of filter I could use

    Thanks
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited February 22, 2012
    You don't really tell us what problem you're trying to solve. I will suggest not shooting from the sides of the ring on which the lights are mounted. Shoot from the ends so you're not shooting into the lights.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • T. BombadilT. Bombadil Registered Users Posts: 286 Major grins
    edited February 22, 2012
    nathgreco wrote: »
    they have 6 lights ( 3 0n each side of the ring) that are on during the matches, these lights are multi coloured icolor 4 lghts http://www.soundivision.com.au/products.asp?id=123
    each have 4 500 w halogen globes, that may change colour through the night but is manly white

    my camera settings on my 500d are : Tv mode,iso between 16000 and 32000, shutter between 1/500 white balance is Tungsten

    I'm thinking you might be happier in full manual (no auto ISO) shooting raw. I'm not trying to start a raw vs jpg debate (which is easily kindled), but because it gives you complete white balance control after the fact (so those lights can change color as much as they want, you'll have total color control later).

    But maybe more importantly - if you can figure out what exposure settings get properly exposed faces/wrestlers when there is no light source visible in the frame and used that setting for all shots - then when a lamp comes into view it will of course cause a blown out area, but it will not cause your camera to under expose wrestlers. The intensity of the light is probably not changing all that much (right?). Shooting in raw would give you some extra exposure latitude in post also (and maybe you are, so apologies for bringing it up if so), but I would try to pick an exposure value and stick to it (says the rank amateur who has never photographed wrestlers).
    Bruce

    Chooka chooka hoo la ley
    Looka looka koo la ley
  • nathgreconathgreco Registered Users Posts: 13 Big grins
    edited February 22, 2012
    thanks guys , I'll try that, I just hav to remind myself to

    the lights do change color as guys are coming out of the entrance, but it goes back to a white during the matches.


    PanoIMG2782sm-M.jpg

    I am not allowed to be in the far side as there is a video camera pointing out on a second floor window (above the banner) and the action usually happens towards the long sides, I'll just keep having a play, trying to place myself away from the lights if possible and I'll give Raw and manual a try

    Thanks all
  • ZerodogZerodog Registered Users Posts: 1,480 Major grins
    edited February 29, 2012
    For sure full manual. For indoors, it is the only way to go. Otherwise colors and light and dark will fool your camera and you WILLL LOSE shots. It is really not hard. You pick the ISO based on a shutter speed you are trying to attain. From there you already know the aperture you would like to use. All that is left is dialing in the speed. Easy. RAW helps a ton for PP. It also gives a little more latitude for noise and sharpening. If you set your WB manually, you will get your exposures closer and have less to figure out in post. It is a lot easier to correct an image that is close, than one that is out in left field for color.
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