Short lighting + walls

divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
edited March 20, 2012 in People
I'm very happy with Saturday's shoot (thread here), but as I was browsing, I realised that the wall shots all wound up being broad lit simply because of where I could put the flash - with a wall in the way, it has to be on the "wrong side" to grab the face when the subject is facing into the wall.

Is there a way to "cheat" this pose or light placement so that you get something closer to short lighting to help slim faces? I was using a 24x36 softbox - would using my 16" square SB have been a better way of adding some fill, but with greater light falloff to "cheat" the shadows into shaping the face a little more?

Just trying to modify this and get some ideas for the future..... :thumb

Comments

  • jeffreaux2jeffreaux2 Registered Users Posts: 4,762 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Diva,

    I use walls plenty, but usually face the subject away from the wall at a diagonal angle. This way, even the natural light can be a short pattern. Thromping in extra light with a speedlight will intensify the effect.

    842710463_qiNSW-XL-1.jpg


    Facing any other direction will force you out of short lighting.

    820953755_5ghoH-XL-2.jpg
    379734279_PTxK4-L-1.jpg

    There might be a chance, if you used a light colored wall and the sunlight came in at the right angle and you could flag the natural light off the model, but that would REALLY be an experiment!
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    yeah, that's kind of what I discovered. Fortunately, I did some both leaning back into and front into, but I was wondering if there was any trick I'd missed.

    What happens if you set the light up behind photographer and go for a clamshell effect - have you ever tried that? (you're my inspiration for walls, btw - was thinking about your poses and use of walls - and wrought-iron railings - a lot on Saturday!!)
  • IcebearIcebear Registered Users Posts: 4,015 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    If you feather your light radically to the point that the light is really aimed at the wall in front of the face, you'll be bouncing your key off the wall into the other side of the face. The danger is that you can pick up weird color cast issues depending on the wall. Pick your wall verrry carefully.
    John :
    Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
    D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
  • jeffreaux2jeffreaux2 Registered Users Posts: 4,762 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Icebear wrote: »
    If you feather your light radically to the point that the light is really aimed at the wall in front of the face, you'll be bouncing your key off the wall into the other side of the face. The danger is that you can pick up weird color cast issues depending on the wall. Pick your wall verrry carefully.


    The color cast issue is the ever present danger when using walls. Good point!
  • jeffreaux2jeffreaux2 Registered Users Posts: 4,762 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    divamum wrote: »
    yeah, that's kind of what I discovered. Fortunately, I did some both leaning back into and front into, but I was wondering if there was any trick I'd missed.

    What happens if you set the light up behind photographer and go for a clamshell effect - have you ever tried that? (you're my inspiration for walls, btw - was thinking about your poses and use of walls - and wrought-iron railings - a lot on Saturday!!)

    Never tried that. I generally use only a single light and the infra red trigger. Putting the light behind me would be a trick for sure....especially if I also had to trigger a second one in front of me.
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Diva, I'm not understanding what your problem was. Is the wall creating fill? If so how about a black curtain to keep the bounced light to a min. If you want an edgier light that happens as you move your subject to the front of the softbox.
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Jeff, your #3 is a screamer!!
  • jeffreaux2jeffreaux2 Registered Users Posts: 4,762 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Hackbone wrote: »
    Jeff, your #3 is a screamer!!


    Ha!

    Shot it with a Rebel XTi and 17-55F2.8IS. I stood on a $20 three step ladder (that I take everywhere). The lighting was bounced sunlight via a $2-3 sheet of foam core. Low budget/high impact!
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    The old KISS system works for me every time.......KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited March 20, 2012
    Icebear, that's a really good suggestion - I'll try that next time I'm working against granite (grey) rather than brick (orange) thumb.gif

    Hack, it was just that once they're turned into the wall - face to it - the only place to easily put the light results in broad lighting. Was just trying to figure out if I'd missed some blindingly obvious way of making that NOT happen (I'm good at missing the blindingly obvious sometimes rolleyes1.gif) headscratch.gif

    Jeff, I've put the STE2 behind me and it worked, BUT.... it was indoors. Outdoors, I think that would be a non-starter, as you right suggest thumb.gif
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