Adjusting Flash for on Location Portraits

lifeinfocus

I have an opportunity to shoot first communion sessions one in late April and one in early May. I have two SB700 flashes with an umbrella and an Octodome.

I used them once as I noted for Girl Scout ball and it worked well, but setting the flash output was a lot of trial and error - mostly just guessing.

So, my question is how can I set both flashes close to, or if possible, exactly what I want, check it on my laptop and tweak it, instead of randomly setting the flash and tweaking many times?

I have an old hand held light meter but have not used it.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Phil

Photogbiker

meter...
You really need a flash meter if you don't have full TTL control of your flashes off camera. Or, you can do some math with the flash Guide Numbers and bring a tape measure to estimate and be pretty close. Other option is to set up a dry run at home, pre-set all the flashes and use a tape measure and diagram your set up, then replicate it on site. Balancing ambient will be a crap shoot, but your flash exposure should be good.

Guide number 160, 20' flash to subject = f 8. All goes out the window though when using any sort of modifier so again, buy a flash meter. I have a very basic Polaris meter that I think was $100 5 or 6 years ago.

Good luck.

lifeinfocus

Photogbiker wrote: »

You really need a flash meter if you don't have full TTL control of your flashes off camera. Or, you can do some math with the flash Guide Numbers and bring a tape measure to estimate and be pretty close. Other option is to set up a dry run at home, pre-set all the flashes and use a tape measure and diagram your set up, then replicate it on site. Balancing ambient will be a crap shoot, but your flash exposure should be good.

Guide number 160, 20' flash to subject = f 8. All goes out the window though when using any sort of modifier so again, buy a flash meter. I have a very basic Polaris meter that I think was $100 5 or 6 years ago.

Good luck.

Thank you.

ziggy53

If you have access to the location beforehand, you can probably just set everything up and run some test images with a stand-in.

In one particular occasion I wanted to use studio strobes in a church that I had not set lighting in before. I went the day before, set the light locations, and took some sample captures with the help of a youngster who was happy to oblige.

In 3 exposures, I had my settings:



The following day I just had to set everything in the same location and make sure that the flashes' power settings were correct, according to the previous day. Then I was good-to-go:



This was using 2 - studio monolights (key and secondary) and a Sunpak 383 Super compact flash (fill and catch light). All flashes were run as manual and all were on simple radio trigger/slaves.

Moving Pictures

Interestingly, The Lady and I are having JUST this kind of conversation at this very moment. One of The Lady's best friends (and a good friend of mine, too) is getting married in a month or two. I had offered to do some gratis engagement pics - when The Lady busticated her leg, which cancelled our trip. Now, our plans have morphed to me shooting the wedding, which will be a low-key, casual affair. Nonetheless, I want to see the venue ahead of time, see what my lights can do ... and I'll take light -test shots the day before, if possible, and at the same time of day ... so I know what I'm up against.

lifeinfocus

ziggy53 wrote: »

If you have access to the location beforehand, you can probably just set everything up and run some test images with a stand-in.

In one particular occasion I wanted to use studio strobes in a church that I had not set lighting in before. I went the day before, set the light locations, and took some sample captures with the help of a youngster who was happy to oblige.

In 3 exposures, I had my settings:

This was using 2 - studio monolights (key and secondary) and a Sunpak 383 Super compact flash (fill and catch light). All flashes were run as manual and all were on simple radio trigger/slaves.

I plan on testing in advance. I will also be using radio trigger and slaves, and setting the flashes on manual.

I wonder though about the previous response regarding the use of a flash meter. Can a flash meter assist when a modifier is used - umbrella for instance? If not, then would that mean that trial and error is the only way to lock it in?

Thank you,
Phil

lifeinfocus

ziggy53 wrote: »

If you have access to the location beforehand, you can probably just set everything up and run some test images with a stand-in.

In one particular occasion I wanted to use studio strobes in a church that I had not set lighting in before. I went the day before, set the light locations, and took some sample captures with the help of a youngster who was happy to oblige.

In 3 exposures, I had my settings:

This was using 2 - studio monolights (key and secondary) and a Sunpak 383 Super compact flash (fill and catch light). All flashes were run as manual and all were on simple radio trigger/slaves.

I plan on testing in advance. I will also be using radio trigger and slaves, and setting the flashes on manual.

I wonder though about the previous response regarding the use of a flash meter. Can a flash meter assist when a modifier is used - umbrella for instance? If not, then would that mean that trial and error is the only way to lock it in?

Just as a side note, the background will be beautiful stained glass window - floor to ceiling.

Thank you,
Phil

Sam

The flash meter simply sees the flash, records the information and translates that info into F stops, shutter speeds, ISO. What makes the flash, what it passes through (modifiers) is immaterial.

I can say it's dead accurate. Better than my trial and error method.

That said both methods work.

Sam

lifeinfocus

Sam wrote: »

The flash meter simply sees the flash, records the information and translates that info into F stops, shutter speeds, ISO. What makes the flash, what it passes through (modifiers) is immaterial.

I can say it's dead accurate. Better than my trial and error method.

That said both methods work.

Sam

Thanks much.

I have started to look at flash meters. Is there generally a preferred product and model to buy?

Sam

I can only tell you I bought a Sekonic L-358. It will measure both incident and reflective light.

Sam

ian408

The Sekonic L-358 seems to be a pretty popular model. Although not the same model, I also have a Sekonic and have been very happy. I got the pocket wizard accessory since it's useful to fire the strobes using the PW's.

lifeinfocus

ian408 wrote: »

The Sekonic L-358 seems to be a pretty popular model. Although not the same model, I also have a Sekonic and have been very happy. I got the pocket wizard accessory since it's useful to fire the strobes using the PW's.

Thanks. I saw that model searching the web, B&H and Amazon. It gets good reviews.

Phil

ziggy53

A meter that can read both flash and ambient is a very good idea, but it's not absolutely necessary. It is generally faster than using the camera alone, unless you have previously shot with the flashes and modifiers. Experience and a log book, showing settings, distances, etc. is extremely accurate too. You just need to translate the previous experience into the ambient at the event.

If you do get a meter, which I do recommend despite my comments above, be sure to test the meter with your flashes and your camera. It's rare that a flash meter will exactly match the sensitivity of all cameras. (It never happens.) Calibration through your testing is the best method.

BTW, I use a Gossen Luna Pro F, which is a null meter readout and extremely fast to use, ... once you figure it out. (They haven't been made in years.)

lifeinfocus

ziggy53 wrote: »

A meter that can read both flash and ambient is a very good idea, but it's not absolutely necessary. It is generally faster than using the camera alone, unless you have previously shot with the flashes and modifiers. Experience and a log book, showing settings, distances, etc. is extremely accurate too. You just need to translate the previous experience into the ambient at the event.

If you do get a meter, which I do recommend despite my comments above, be sure to test the meter with your flashes and your camera. It's rare that a flash meter will exactly match the sensitivity of all cameras. (It never happens.) Calibration through your testing is the best method.

BTW, I use a Gossen Luna Pro F, which is a null meter readout and extremely fast to use, ... once you figure it out. (They haven't been made in years.)

Thanks very much again. BTW, I forgot to say before that photos you included in your first post are excellent.

Phil

Cindy

You mentioned shooting in front of a stained glass window... note the light changes coming through the window will effect your ambient light for certain & more than likely your flash output settings as well so be sure to meter again just before the event.

lifeinfocus

Cindy wrote: »

You mentioned shooting in front of a stained glass window... note the light changes coming through the window will effect your ambient light for certain & more than likely your flash output settings as well so be sure to meter again just before the event.

Good points. I plan on testing on both a cloudy and sunny day if possible.

Phil