7D Tips and/or Suggestions?

El ComatEl Comat Registered Users Posts: 51 Big grins
edited May 2, 2012 in Cameras
Hi everyone,

I just bought a used 7D and it should be arriving this week. I'm looking for some tips on how to set it up for the best results (picture style tweaks for JPEG, AF settings, C. Fn. settings, etc.). My current setup is a 40D with a 17-55 2.8, 50 1.4, 85 1.8 (coming with the 7D) and 70-200 F4L IS. So all you 7D users, don't be shy...give me all you've got! I'll be using it to shoot a wedding this summer so I want to get the most out of it.

Thanks!
Adam

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,118 moderator
    edited April 29, 2012
    The AF section of the 7D is a lot different from the 40D. Take some serious time to learn the differences and when to use which mode and settings. In particular, if you use single point AF, a separate point may be set for portrait and landscape orientations, and the camera will automatically toggle between the two as you rotate the camera.

    Always use a flash that has an AF Assist light for low-light photography. It will both speed the AF acquisition and improve AF accuracy. Also use an appropriate flash modifier for the situation and environment.

    http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/whats_news_eos7d_article.shtml

    http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

    http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/app/pdfs/quickguides/CDLC_EOS7D_AF_Modes_QuickGuide.pdf

    http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-7D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • El ComatEl Comat Registered Users Posts: 51 Big grins
    edited April 30, 2012
    Thanks Ziggy. I have a 580 EXII, and yes, I love the AF assist. I've never checked the manual, but is there a way to use the AF assist but not fire the flash? Keep the suggestions coming!

    Thanks,
    Adam
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited April 30, 2012
    A couple more:

    - View images at 50% on the computer, not 100%. The pixel density on this camera means that 100% images can sometimes be VERY misleading (especially if you're coming from a camera with much lower density).

    - The 7d's Auto ISO (while shooting in manual mode) ROCKS. It's not for every situation but, particularly outside, it's wonderful. Try it - I've been very impressed.
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  • jmphotocraftjmphotocraft Registered Users Posts: 2,987 Major grins
    edited April 30, 2012
    For sports, I had good luck with single point AF with expansion on. Select the appropriate point and aim for the area you want in focus, like the face. The "tracking sensitivity" setting is somewhat poorly named, as it basically adjusts how quickly the camera will re-focus if another subject crosses in front of your intended subject. For soccer I would turn this down to medium-slow.

    All focus points on is for dummies. ;)

    I agree with Diva, if the shot is sharp and good at 50%, it's a keeper. 100% view is like looking at a 50" wide print from 18" away. Not realistic. If you need to print huge regularly, get a 5D2. If you want it all, get a 5D3.
    -Jack

    An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
  • El ComatEl Comat Registered Users Posts: 51 Big grins
    edited April 30, 2012
    Thanks Diva and Jack! I plan on shooting mostly at medium-sized JPEG, with the obvious exception for shooting important things like weddings or any paid work. Here's something I've never really thought about, but if I look at my medium JPEG at 100%, is that the same as viewing a large JPEG at 50%? Also on a bit of another tangent (Ziggy I'm looking your way), is it true that it's best to only shoot at "native" ISOs (100, 200, 400, etc.)? I've heard that anything in between is software driven and can actually magnify noise and other bad things. I shoot a lot of family stuff inside and would rather shoot at 1600 instead of 1250 if it gives me a "truer" image.

    Thanks!
  • NormanPCNNormanPCN Registered Users Posts: 7 Beginner grinner
    edited April 30, 2012
    The 7D seems to be okay on .5 and .33 stop ISO increments. For some models in the past this was not the case. Here is one person who did a simple test you can do yourself.
    http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/canon_7d_noise.html

    -Norman
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited April 30, 2012
    El Comat wrote: »
    Thanks Diva and Jack! I plan on shooting mostly at medium-sized JPEG, with the obvious exception for shooting important things like weddings or any paid work. Here's something I've never really thought about, but if I look at my medium JPEG at 100%, is that the same as viewing a large JPEG at 50%? Also on a bit of another tangent (Ziggy I'm looking your way), is it true that it's best to only shoot at "native" ISOs (100, 200, 400, etc.)? I've heard that anything in between is software driven and can actually magnify noise and other bad things. I shoot a lot of family stuff inside and would rather shoot at 1600 instead of 1250 if it gives me a "truer" image.

    Thanks!

    I would STRONGLY recommend using full-size jpgs. You never know when you will want those pixels for cropping and IME having them there can really save a shot! Plus, I've just found the IQ so much higher at full-size. I usually shoot raw, but when I do go jpg it's maximum resolution; there's definitely a different, IMO.

    Try the auto ISO and see what you think - you'll be surprised (I sure was!). I've found at higher ISO's 1250 and 2000 are surprisingly good IF you get a decent exposure - if you underexposed and then have to boost in post, it's not pretty.... ;)
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  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,118 moderator
    edited May 1, 2012
    El Comat wrote: »
    ... Also on a bit of another tangent (Ziggy I'm looking your way), is it true that it's best to only shoot at "native" ISOs (100, 200, 400, etc.)? I've heard that anything in between is software driven and can actually magnify noise and other bad things. I shoot a lot of family stuff inside and would rather shoot at 1600 instead of 1250 if it gives me a "truer" image.

    Thanks!
    NormanPCN wrote: »
    The 7D seems to be okay on .5 and .33 stop ISO increments. For some models in the past this was not the case. Here is one person who did a simple test you can do yourself.
    http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/canon_7d_noise.html

    -Norman

    15524779-Ti.gif That's my understanding too, that "some" models work best at specific ISOs (with regards to random sensor noise), but that does not mean that all models are problematic at fractional ISOs.

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/597010/0
    http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/canon_1ds3_noise.html
    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1019&message=32657684&changemode=1
    http://www.pages.drexel.edu/~par24/rawhistogram/40DTest/40DTest.html

    Best to do your own tests.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • Brett1000Brett1000 Registered Users Posts: 819 Major grins
    edited May 1, 2012
    El Comat wrote: »
    Thanks Diva and Jack! I plan on shooting mostly at medium-sized JPEG, with the obvious exception for shooting important things like weddings or any paid work.

    Why not shoot in RAW and save to any file size. RAW gives you the most ability to change or adjust exposure, levels, contrast, etc.
  • Quincy TQuincy T Registered Users Posts: 1,090 Major grins
    edited May 2, 2012
    Brett1000 wrote: »
    Why not shoot in RAW and save to any file size. RAW gives you the most ability to change or adjust exposure, levels, contrast, etc.

    Honestly this is true, I've never been realistically limited by my 7Ds buffer when shooting RAW at full FPS. At some point, of course, it is going to slow down significantly, but if you use a basic, 233x, UDMA card and it does the job.

    Shoot RAW.
  • El ComatEl Comat Registered Users Posts: 51 Big grins
    edited May 2, 2012
    I shoot JPEG primarily to save HD space, and also to save time. Is there a way to process a whole whack of RAWs into decent-looking JPEGs using DPP or LR? I guess I'm looking for an easy way to turn RAW into something that the camera would spit out SOOC using the in-camera picture styles. I often take pics at family functions and get asked for a CD of the pics. With JPEG, I just load the pics from the camera and burn them to a disk. Obviously if it's a specific photo shoot, I shoot in RAW and massage the pics in LR.

    Keep the advice coming!
  • El ComatEl Comat Registered Users Posts: 51 Big grins
    edited May 2, 2012
    Well I just found a video describing how to quickly assign picture styles to RAW files in LR, so I'm running out of excuses to keep shooting JPEG!
  • jmphotocraftjmphotocraft Registered Users Posts: 2,987 Major grins
    edited May 2, 2012
    El Comat wrote: »
    I shoot JPEG primarily to save HD space, and also to save time. Is there a way to process a whole whack of RAWs into decent-looking JPEGs using DPP or LR?

    Yes, it's called a Batch. You can do it in DPP or LR.
    I guess I'm looking for an easy way to turn RAW into something that the camera would spit out SOOC using the in-camera picture styles.

    DPP is probably easiest for that.
    -Jack

    An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
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