I recommend getting the package with the SensorView - magnifier with a light source to be able to see that the sensor is clean (or to view what still needs cleaning).
I don't wish to be smart, but I do wonder about how dirty is dirty, and how clean is clean? If, unlike me, you shoot a lot each day, and often in very dirty conditions, and the state of your sensor becomes unmanageable over time, then I think a regular Canon service would be reasonable to factor into your budget. Best and safest results. For less compelling situations, easy/automated+batch dust spot removal is available in photoediting software, and this is what I choose when necessary in preference to physically treating the camera innards, which has some risk attached, and is not always completely satisfactory in that stuff might just get moved from one place to a worse.
Search turns up a lots of responses, all postive to Copperhill.
It is the purpose of life that each of us strives to become actually what he is potentially. We should be obsessed with stretching towards that goal through the world we inhabit.
Bottom line is presumably whether it shows in the pics - and even if junk is visible, how much, and where (in frame)
Shooting macro, stopped down - especially with something like an mpe65 and really diffused / oof coloured backgrounds (not black) ... you'll soon get fed up dealing with muck -imo.
Likewise even shooting with a long lens,wide open ...again with oof bgs, muck that shows up in inconvenient places is a pita.
I also use copper hill and liked their tutorials. I add a step:
1. use a rocket blower, camera held lens-bay-down. this often is enough.
2. If #1 is not enough, use a static brush. Copper Hill sells one.
3. Only if #2 is not enough, use a wet cleaning.
I change lenses a lot but am fairly careful when I do. I have had to resort to a wet cleaning infrequently--I'm guessing, averaging once a year or less.
It's nerve-wracking the first time, but you get used to it. Just be very gentle. Don't bear down hard. and be sure to use a blower to get loose grit off before anything else.
Been doing this over over 8 yrs now......was having a tough time figuring out where all the spots on images was from then found CopperHill.... comparing them to a Minota (at the time) cleaning cost...I went CopperHill...never had a prob and neither will you as long as you follow directions.....
I recommend getting the package with the SensorView - magnifier with a light source to be able to see that the sensor is clean (or to view what still needs cleaning).
I see no advantage to the extra cost...but I have tried using my magni hood and it is way easier to clean and take a shot of a wall and look at it on a large screen.....you're using that much time...as the image does not need to be processit, just viewed
Bottom line is presumably whether it shows in the pics - and even if junk is visible, how much, and where (in frame)
Shooting macro, stopped down - especially with something like an mpe65 and really diffused / oof coloured backgrounds (not black) ... you'll soon get fed up dealing with muck -imo.
Likewise even shooting with a long lens,wide open ...again with oof bgs, muck that shows up in inconvenient places is a pita.
I diy with methanol and home made spatulas.
pp
OK. When the sensor and related bits are cheap, disposable and user replaceable I'll reconsider! In the meantime, I'll keep warning my OCD to behave!
OK. When the sensor and related bits are cheap, disposable and user replaceable I'll reconsider! ...
Well, I certainly didn't dive in feet first, wearing hob-nailed boots.
Read as much as possible (including Dg) + not being able to get the products mentioned above in the uk (at the time) ...I went ahead.
£3 for 100ml of methanol (fleabay)
£1 for an eye dropper from local chemists.
In case you are worried about Copperhill, do note that you are not actually cleaning the SENSOR. You are cleaning a glass filter that is sitting on top of the sensor. The Eclipse solution is designed to be used on fine optics, and dries without any smudging. The clothes are soft and lint free. You won't scratch anything with this system.
True, sometimes I miss a bit of dust and need to reclean, but I haven't found a need to inspect the area with anything other than my eyes. If I can not see dust in my images at 100%, then I don't have dust on the sensor.
I have cleaned my 40D with this system since I have owned it, and my 350D before that. I don't send it to Canon because I have heard that they simply blow it out, and do not do a wet clean. In any case, there are plenty of stories of sensors returning from Canon no cleaner than they left, so I don't see any advantage in having them clean it aside from one: if they screw it up, there is a good chance they will replace the filter. If I screw it up, well....
I was having issues on noise and OOC IQ dropping some months ago, started a thread discussing it. I think I figured out why. I smoke, and sometimes smoke while shooting, outdoor, and I think some of the smoke got to the sensor. Ever see what smoke does on a piece of glass? Yeah I know don't do that. I used the sensor swabs with a drop of solution on mine and was astounded by the difference. http://sensorswab.com/ Some complain the wet swabs are too wet, but I used dry with 2 drops of Eclipse, and ended up using 3 swabs. Copperhill and these look awfully close.
This is why I went with sensor swabs
CCD Sensor Guarantee :
Photographic Solutions guarantees that it's Sensor Swab, Sensor Swab Plus , BrushOff or Eclipse products will cause no damage to the CCD or CMOS sensor when used in accordance with the instructions provided by the camera manufacturer and/or Photographic Solutions website www.photosol.com . If it is determined that these products caused physical damage to the sensor, PS will repair or replace the sensor at no cost to the camera owner, upon presentation to PS of proof of purchase of any of the above listed products and the original purchase receipt for the camera. This warranty applies to all cameras and in any country. Send the camera and proof of purchase at camera owners expense to: Photographic Solutions 430-G Ansin Blvd. Hallandale, FL 33009 United States of America
If I can not see dust in my images at 100%, then I don't have dust on the sensor.
Just trying to clarify this as (to me) it can mean one of 2 things
Can't see dust in images when viewed @ 100%, so even if there IS dust, I'm not bothered - because I can't see it, so therefore it doesn't matter / needs no action ...
or
I can't see dust when image viewed @100%, so therefore there isn't any - full stop / period.
From the latter pov, tweaking the histogram in DPP (or similar, assuming RAW) I've found to be quite illuminating with respect to ascertaining the presence (or not) of muck.
Just trying to clarify this as (to me) it can mean one of 2 things
Can't see dust in images when viewed @ 100%, so even if there IS dust, I'm not bothered - because I can't see it, so therefore it doesn't matter / needs no action ...
or
I can't see dust when image viewed @100%, so therefore there isn't any - full stop / period.
From the latter pov, tweaking the histogram in DPP (or similar, assuming RAW) I've found to be quite illuminating with respect to ascertaining the presence (or not) of muck.
pp
If a tree falls in the woods and now one is there to hear it, does it make any sound? = if there is dust but I can't see it on any images, is it really there?
If a tree falls in the woods and now one is there to hear it, does it make any sound? = if there is dust but I can't see it on any images, is it really there?
If there's no one there then nothing is there, that's why you go shopping when someone's there!:cool
Comments
Yes. get the Copperhill kit:
Kit: http://www.copperhillimages.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=3
Tutorial: (watch this first) http://www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials
I recommend getting the package with the SensorView - magnifier with a light source to be able to see that the sensor is clean (or to view what still needs cleaning).
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
Search turns up a lots of responses, all postive to Copperhill.
Bottom line is presumably whether it shows in the pics - and even if junk is visible, how much, and where (in frame)
Shooting macro, stopped down - especially with something like an mpe65 and really diffused / oof coloured backgrounds (not black) ... you'll soon get fed up dealing with muck -imo.
Likewise even shooting with a long lens,wide open ...again with oof bgs, muck that shows up in inconvenient places is a pita.
I diy with methanol and home made spatulas.
pp
Flickr
1. use a rocket blower, camera held lens-bay-down. this often is enough.
2. If #1 is not enough, use a static brush. Copper Hill sells one.
3. Only if #2 is not enough, use a wet cleaning.
I change lenses a lot but am fairly careful when I do. I have had to resort to a wet cleaning infrequently--I'm guessing, averaging once a year or less.
It's nerve-wracking the first time, but you get used to it. Just be very gentle. Don't bear down hard. and be sure to use a blower to get loose grit off before anything else.
Been doing this over over 8 yrs now......was having a tough time figuring out where all the spots on images was from then found CopperHill.... comparing them to a Minota (at the time) cleaning cost...I went CopperHill...never had a prob and neither will you as long as you follow directions.....
I see no advantage to the extra cost...but I have tried using my magni hood and it is way easier to clean and take a shot of a wall and look at it on a large screen.....you're using that much time...as the image does not need to be processit, just viewed
Do that or you can buy the swabs and eclipse solution from Amazon for 1/2 the cost
OK. When the sensor and related bits are cheap, disposable and user replaceable I'll reconsider!
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix
Well, I certainly didn't dive in feet first, wearing hob-nailed boots.
Read as much as possible (including Dg) + not being able to get the products mentioned above in the uk (at the time) ...I went ahead.
£3 for 100ml of methanol (fleabay)
£1 for an eye dropper from local chemists.
(already had the rest)
pp
Flickr
True, sometimes I miss a bit of dust and need to reclean, but I haven't found a need to inspect the area with anything other than my eyes. If I can not see dust in my images at 100%, then I don't have dust on the sensor.
I have cleaned my 40D with this system since I have owned it, and my 350D before that. I don't send it to Canon because I have heard that they simply blow it out, and do not do a wet clean. In any case, there are plenty of stories of sensors returning from Canon no cleaner than they left, so I don't see any advantage in having them clean it aside from one: if they screw it up, there is a good chance they will replace the filter. If I screw it up, well....
This is why I went with sensor swabs
CCD Sensor Guarantee :
Photographic Solutions guarantees that it's Sensor Swab, Sensor Swab Plus , BrushOff or Eclipse products will cause no damage to the CCD or CMOS sensor when used in accordance with the instructions provided by the camera manufacturer and/or Photographic Solutions website www.photosol.com . If it is determined that these products caused physical damage to the sensor, PS will repair or replace the sensor at no cost to the camera owner, upon presentation to PS of proof of purchase of any of the above listed products and the original purchase receipt for the camera. This warranty applies to all cameras and in any country. Send the camera and proof of purchase at camera owners expense to: Photographic Solutions 430-G Ansin Blvd. Hallandale, FL 33009 United States of America
Just trying to clarify this as (to me) it can mean one of 2 things
Can't see dust in images when viewed @ 100%, so even if there IS dust, I'm not bothered - because I can't see it, so therefore it doesn't matter / needs no action ...
or
I can't see dust when image viewed @100%, so therefore there isn't any - full stop / period.
From the latter pov, tweaking the histogram in DPP (or similar, assuming RAW) I've found to be quite illuminating with respect to ascertaining the presence (or not) of muck.
pp
Flickr
If a tree falls in the woods and now one is there to hear it, does it make any sound? = if there is dust but I can't see it on any images, is it really there?
If there's no one there then nothing is there, that's why you go shopping when someone's there!:cool
Neil
http://www.behance.net/brosepix