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Filter Options, including ND's

JasonMorrowPhotoJasonMorrowPhoto Registered Users Posts: 72 Big grins
edited July 25, 2012 in Accessories
Hi Everyone,

I've really gotten into Landscape Photography. I was wondering what types of filters I should bring with me on my trips. Currently I have B+W polarizing and uv filters for both lenses. I plan on shooting year round.

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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,871 moderator
    edited July 10, 2012
    The polarizing filter is about the only filter very difficult to duplicate in post-processing. Some folks still use graduated ND filters, but I suggest multiple exposures and post-processing instead.

    ND filters are very handy for allowing longer exposures with large apertures in good light (to smooth water mostly).
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    JasonMorrowPhotoJasonMorrowPhoto Registered Users Posts: 72 Big grins
    edited July 10, 2012
    Thank you ziggy53. I could save my money to get other goodies as needed. I appreciate your help.
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    JasonMorrowPhotoJasonMorrowPhoto Registered Users Posts: 72 Big grins
    edited July 24, 2012
    Filters
    MOD EDIT: I Merged this question with the other thread that already existed.

    I'm interested in experimenting with Neutral Density filters. As with everything there are too many options. Whats the most cost efficient way to do this? I do understand you get what you pay for. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ne_nau.gif
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    MarkRMarkR Registered Users Posts: 2,099 Major grins
    edited July 24, 2012
    ziggy53 wrote: »
    The polarizing filter is about the only filter very difficult to duplicate in post-processing. Some folks still use graduated ND filters, but I suggest multiple exposures and post-processing instead.

    ND filters are very handy for allowing longer exposures with large apertures in good light (to smooth water mostly).

    In fact, while you can fake some of a polarizing filter's effects in photoshop (darkening a washed out sky, for example), it's ability to cut glare and reduce or eliminate reflections can be invaluable, and vastly easier to fix at time of capture.

    Couple things to watch out for: check to see if your front lens rotates when focusing. Most newer lenses don't do this. But if it does, you'll have to focus first, then adjust the polarizer.

    Also, I have a $15 tiffen CP. It is crap. I also have a $45 marumi CP, and it is quite nice. You definitely get what you pay for!
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    ZBlackZBlack Registered Users Posts: 337 Major grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    I've been considering a big 10 stop for my wide angle lens since most the time I'm out shooting water stuff, it's mid day sadly. However, I really want a polarizer, mainly for my portrait lenses 17-50, 50-150, but wouldn't mind one for my wide angle. I have read that wide angles and polarizers don't mix well, is this true?
    -Zach
    www.zblackwood.com
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    JasonMorrowPhotoJasonMorrowPhoto Registered Users Posts: 72 Big grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    I've been using a B+W slim polarizer on my Tokina 11-16 lens with great success.
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    MarkRMarkR Registered Users Posts: 2,099 Major grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    MassUnknowledged wrote: »
    I've been using a B+W slim polarizer on my Tokina 11-16 lens with great success.

    :uhoh. Reading comprehension, I apparently don't got it. Sorry!
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    JasonMorrowPhotoJasonMorrowPhoto Registered Users Posts: 72 Big grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    Tokina AT-X 116 PRO DX AF 11-16mm f/2.8 Lens
    Since this is a wide angle lens you need to use a low profile filter to avoid getting the filter into the picture also. So by
    Purchasing a slim mount you reduce the chances of also getting the filter in the shot.
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    ZerodogZerodog Registered Users Posts: 1,480 Major grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    The cheapest way to go once set up is the Cokin filter mount. Cokin filters are relativaly cheap and easily stacked for different effects. I have been trying to get closer to my finished photo with filters instead of just processing. Combining polarizing, ND, and ND grads are a way to do this. The only downside to them is the filter mount itself can get in your shot if too wide. I went with a P mount. I wish I went with a larger mount even though that may seem huge. I think it would have been better in the long run.
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    MarkRMarkR Registered Users Posts: 2,099 Major grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    MassUnknowledged wrote: »
    Tokina AT-X 116 PRO DX AF 11-16mm f/2.8 Lens
    Since this is a wide angle lens you need to use a low profile filter to avoid getting the filter into the picture also. So by
    Purchasing a slim mount you reduce the chances of also getting the filter in the shot.

    Yeah, I posted without reading your original post in full. Sorry.
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    cmasoncmason Registered Users Posts: 2,506 Major grins
    edited July 25, 2012
    Zerodog wrote: »
    The cheapest way to go once set up is the Cokin filter mount. Cokin filters are relativaly cheap and easily stacked for different effects.

    +1 on Cokin filters. especially brilliant on ND Grads, as they allow easy alignment of horizon. Plus they fit on all your lenses, vs buying round, sized filters for all lenses.
    Photos
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