D800 & remote flashes tend to suck.
EphTwoEight
Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
With my D300 it worked wonderfully. And every time, now its only if its dark enough, and directly in line of site of the little sensor.
I've got an SB910 coming, but if acts the same way, I will really be let down. I was hoping I didnt need to buy more crap to trigger the flashes. Also read on other sites same issues, but no solutions.
I've got an SB910 coming, but if acts the same way, I will really be let down. I was hoping I didnt need to buy more crap to trigger the flashes. Also read on other sites same issues, but no solutions.
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If you're setting up remote flashes, they HAVE to be in the line of sight of the camera/sensor, that's how CLS works..
My D800 works fine with a SB26 and SB900.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
Adding the 910 as a master will help greatly. My SB900 has a much bigger spread of light to send the signal. The only downside is you feel like you are wasting a great light just to send a signal to other lights. Your hit rate will be better in all situations using the flash.
perroneford@ptfphoto.com
Well, another reason I didnt want to use the canons, to me its more crap dangling from the camera, more batteries, more costs etc. And with my D300, I used that CLS several times in all sorts of conditions, and never had an issue not firing. Now I try to call Nikon, and they wont even answer the phone. I have no brand loyalty, if I could dump it all right now for what I'm into it... Well, I suppose I need to try the new 910, and the firmware update before I rant anymore. But right now I'm :bash
I set up the flashes in a different room and shot a frame without the camera being in the line of sight and mine still worked..:/
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
That was just luck. It all has to do with the bounce. Inside there can be many surfaces for the light to bounce off of and trigger your remote flashes. Outside not so much. And it can be the luck of the draw inside too. Diff color walls, high ceilings, ???? I have had great luck and terrible luck inside and outside with CLS.. I am very glad I know how to use it and know its limits.
http://clearwaterphotography.smugmug.com/
I saw all the noise just after introduction about CLS problems but I have not seen a single one, and I notice unlike the focus issues, all the noise went away after no one reliably reproduced it.
One day I may get radio triggers, but in the meantime, CLS works very nicely.
I tried with my SB26 and SB900 indoors and it worked 4/5 tries.
I'll report back with my results for outdoors.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
I get the expectation that in the dark reflected light should/might reach it, but the CLS system is not just a case of a remote trigger, it has to exchange detailed, coded data in those milliseconds. Picture a flash seeing the pre-flashes by reflection -- if it's just one reflection great, but suppose it is several, coming off numerous nearby objects in different directions. Can it work? Sure, but the more interference you place between the two the less likely. Think old style radio and TV in cities, rabbit ears, etc... remember the ghosting you would so, from reflections off buildings that screw up the signal. Not quite the same idea (as these are more off/on encoded not AM or FM), but similar problems.
For something like that you really need RF triggers, like pocket wizards. Something I want, but CLS works enough of the time I just haven't reached the point of wanting to spring for them.
At least you had an excuse of a tombstone between. I tend to fail mostly because I move a flash from left-side to right-side and forget to turn the body around.
Does the Canon 5D3 have actual wireless built in?
I believe that the Canon 5D MKIII has an optical wireless capability, similar to the Nikon CLS wireless system, and with similar problems.
If you mean a radio wireless capability, I don't believe that any camera manufacturer has that built-in to the camera, ... yet.
For now, Canon has produced a radio transmitter wireless master which works with a new flash which has a complimentary radio wireless slave capability. (ST-E3-RT and 600EX-RT respectively.)
For both Canon and for Nikon there are much less expensive radio wireless solutions available, depending upon your needs. (Basic radio master/slave sets for manual flash are very inexpensive.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
!
Well, I didnt expect that much from it, but it always performed awesomely, CLS always worked, and even low light it was fine.
I guess I expected more out of this 36MP FF camera, and so far, meh, its ok.
Dude, story of my life. IR wireless flash has NEVER been totally reliable, and I don't think the D800 is a significant step forward or backward compared to the D300 or any other camera. I shot for 4+ years using a D300 and CLS, and that situation you described about having to move the flash into the line-of-sight is exactly what would happen to me all the time too.
Anyways, all you need is a cheap set of triggers for $60 or something. Done. It'll fire every time. If you shoot around corners or behind objects, this is honestly the only way to go.
Or if you're madly in love with the ability to change your flashe's settings remotely, from the back of your camera like the pop-up flash allows you to do with Nikon CLS, ...then you'll have to pony up for something more expensive like the Radio Popper system.
Or, you could always trade my beat-up old D300 for your D800!
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
Pocket Wizards have a broad line of products, from simple trigger systems through systems that do relay TTL signals.
Some of the import systems also relay TTL signals. It would be wrong to characterize all systems by their point of manufacture.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
!:D
Well...
How about a link to the $60 triggers you speak of. Im sure there are lots out there, but if theres a specific trusted cheap one you know of, let me know. I just rarely use this feature, and dont want to spend much more on it. But... I'm tempted on a 300mm 2.8!
Search for Yongnuo, Cowboy Studio, Blackbelt Lighting, and Cactus. Those are some of the "better" cheap systems out there. They're not as good quality as a PW, of course, but they get the job done if you just use them in simple conditions every now and then.
=Matt=
My SmugMug Portfolio • My Astro-Landscape Photo Blog • Dgrin Weddings Forum
Cool thanks!
I was using a 70-200, shooting with sunset as the backgroud and used my tripod to mount the flash(es).
I was about 15-18 ft away, with the sensor facing the camera and I think the success ratio on the 900 was less probably 2/6 whereas the sb26 actually had a decent success rate.
I had both flashes on the ground, side by side, and it was still about the same.
Needless to say, I see where the OP is coming from.
Frustration!!
I will try it again and post back!
*however, i also had exposure issues.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
I agree that there are plenty of things you can do with line-of-sight triggers if you're attentive to positioning - I've been shooting with my STE2 and Canon flashes for a couple of years now in all conditions, just being very careful about where the sensors are (and I typically don't shoot in bright sunlight) - but the freedom the radio triggers bring is AWESOME. I didn't want to give up ETTL - and didn't have the $ for the PW ettl system - so I decided to try the PK's and have been very happy with them on their first two outings.