I have shot hockey a half dozen times or so, so not an expert but learned a few things.
First, in your shots it appears your auto focus is not set properly and or shutter speed set too slow. Correct that to start.
Setting white balance and exposure is tough for hockey because it is so white that a camera's sensor gets overloaded (not sure that is the right word.) I set the white balance with a grey card but there are better choices and I tend to overexpose the white histogram to get a better exposure.
When I first read about overexposing that it didn't make sense. Basically the camera's sensor is seeing so much white it underexposes too much and the histogram does not record accurately, so you have to push more to the right. At least that is what I do.
I would like to hear from others about the above.
In sports remember - FACT - Face, Action, Contact, Toy (puck/stick). If you get all four in one shot - rare - you have a winner. 3 out of 4 is very good too.
Setting white balance and exposure is tough for hockey because it is so white that a camera's sensor gets overloaded (not sure that is the right word.) I set the white balance with a grey card but there are better choices and I tend to overexpose the white histogram to get a better exposure.
Not quite. White balance can be tough indoors because the lights are cycling and unless you shoot at 1/60 you are going to get color casts. There's not much you can do about it except try to fix in post. A grey card can help, but because the color cast is constantly changing, there's simply nothing you can do about it.
When I first read about overexposing that it didn't make sense. Basically the camera's sensor is seeing so much white it underexposes too much and the histogram does not record accurately, so you have to push more to the right. At least that is what I do.
I would like to hear from others about the above.
Phil
I think you are talking about the light reflecting off the ice. If you have your camera in auto mode (AV, TV, etc) it'll meter off the ice (unless you have spot metering set) and with the lights reflecting off the ice it will cause the player to be underexposed. Since you are indoors with a constant light source. Put your camera in Manual mode, that way the ice won't effect your exposure.
Not quite. White balance can be tough indoors because the lights are cycling and unless you shoot at 1/60 you are going to get color casts. There's not much you can do about it except try to fix in post. A grey card can help, but because the color cast is constantly changing, there's simply nothing you can do about it.
I think you are talking about the light reflecting off the ice. If you have your camera in auto mode (AV, TV, etc) it'll meter off the ice (unless you have spot metering set) and with the lights reflecting off the ice it will cause the player to be underexposed. Since you are indoors with a constant light source. Put your camera in Manual mode, that way the ice won't effect your exposure.
Agree about the white balance - I combined both in one statement and shouldn't have.
Making those two changes improved my results the last few times I shot. I had it set to Shutter Priority (TV - Canon) and matrix (evaluative - Canon) metering - hence measuring light off the ice.
I researched this online from couple of other semi/pro hockey shooters.
Even if you shoot manual, and used matrix metering, I would expect it to underexpose unless you intentionally push the histogram to the right more than normal. Correct?
Do you set your metering to Spot for hockey?
I have a better camera since then and I am looking forward to the new season.
For what it is worth, I shoot a little hockey and set my camera for 1/500 sec. at f2.8 with an iso of 1600 to 2500. I also set my exposure compensation to one stop over. I would suggest you check out postings by April (aktse) she produces some really great shots.j
Agree about the white balance - I combined both in one statement and shouldn't have.
Making those two changes improved my results the last few times I shot. I had it set to Shutter Priority (TV - Canon) and matrix (evaluative - Canon) metering - hence measuring light off the ice.
I researched this online from couple of other semi/pro hockey shooters.
Even if you shoot manual, and used matrix metering, I would expect it to underexpose unless you intentionally push the histogram to the right more than normal. Correct?
Do you set your metering to Spot for hockey?
I have a better camera since then and I am looking forward to the new season.
Phil
If you shoot manual the matrix metering isn't used by the camera. It's all about what you set the camera to do. But yeah, if you set the camera for ISO 3200 1/500 f2.8 and your meter display says it's spot on, then it'll probably mean that those settings are good for the ice.
Exposure compensation while shooting manual doesn't do anything since you are controlling everything.
Best thing to do is just shoot and adjust, shoot and adjust until the players are properly exposed. Then don't worry about it after you get it right.
If you shoot manual the matrix metering isn't used by the camera. It's all about what you set the camera to do. But yeah, if you set the camera for ISO 3200 1/500 f2.8 and your meter display says it's spot on, then it'll probably mean that those settings are good for the ice.
Exposure compensation while shooting manual doesn't do anything since you are controlling everything.
Best thing to do is just shoot and adjust, shoot and adjust until the players are properly exposed. Then don't worry about it after you get it right.
Thank you for your thoughts and I will just say that this is my first time shooting hockey so this is nothing but training for me. I can agree that the focusing is a bit off for some reason. Should i use auto on the focusing points? This time i used only the middle one (of 9) as it sometimes focus on something next to the player when using auto.
I will look over my settings a bit for next time and play around
Thank you for your thoughts and I will just say that this is my first time shooting hockey so this is nothing but training for me. I can agree that the focusing is a bit off for some reason. Should i use auto on the focusing points? This time i used only the middle one (of 9) as it sometimes focus on something next to the player when using auto.
I will look over my settings a bit for next time and play around
Don't know about Canon. I looked at user manual on page 77 and AI Servo mode is to be used for moving objects. Just curious.
Phil
Just realized I never commented on the OP. For the most port you need to shoot tighter and crop even more. Also, you could bump it up to ISO 3200 and get an even faster shutter speed. As for focusing, stick to the center point only and set it to AI Servo.
Comments
First, in your shots it appears your auto focus is not set properly and or shutter speed set too slow. Correct that to start.
Setting white balance and exposure is tough for hockey because it is so white that a camera's sensor gets overloaded (not sure that is the right word.) I set the white balance with a grey card but there are better choices and I tend to overexpose the white histogram to get a better exposure.
When I first read about overexposing that it didn't make sense. Basically the camera's sensor is seeing so much white it underexposes too much and the histogram does not record accurately, so you have to push more to the right. At least that is what I do.
I would like to hear from others about the above.
In sports remember - FACT - Face, Action, Contact, Toy (puck/stick). If you get all four in one shot - rare - you have a winner. 3 out of 4 is very good too.
Phil
"You don't take a photograph, you make it." ~Ansel Adams
Phil
Not quite. White balance can be tough indoors because the lights are cycling and unless you shoot at 1/60 you are going to get color casts. There's not much you can do about it except try to fix in post. A grey card can help, but because the color cast is constantly changing, there's simply nothing you can do about it.
I think you are talking about the light reflecting off the ice. If you have your camera in auto mode (AV, TV, etc) it'll meter off the ice (unless you have spot metering set) and with the lights reflecting off the ice it will cause the player to be underexposed. Since you are indoors with a constant light source. Put your camera in Manual mode, that way the ice won't effect your exposure.
Agree about the white balance - I combined both in one statement and shouldn't have.
Making those two changes improved my results the last few times I shot. I had it set to Shutter Priority (TV - Canon) and matrix (evaluative - Canon) metering - hence measuring light off the ice.
I researched this online from couple of other semi/pro hockey shooters.
Even if you shoot manual, and used matrix metering, I would expect it to underexpose unless you intentionally push the histogram to the right more than normal. Correct?
Do you set your metering to Spot for hockey?
I have a better camera since then and I am looking forward to the new season.
Phil
"You don't take a photograph, you make it." ~Ansel Adams
Phil
If you shoot manual the matrix metering isn't used by the camera. It's all about what you set the camera to do. But yeah, if you set the camera for ISO 3200 1/500 f2.8 and your meter display says it's spot on, then it'll probably mean that those settings are good for the ice.
Exposure compensation while shooting manual doesn't do anything since you are controlling everything.
Best thing to do is just shoot and adjust, shoot and adjust until the players are properly exposed. Then don't worry about it after you get it right.
Great explanation. Thanks
"You don't take a photograph, you make it." ~Ansel Adams
Phil
I will look over my settings a bit for next time and play around
Don't know about Canon. I looked at user manual on page 77 and AI Servo mode is to be used for moving objects. Just curious.
Phil
"You don't take a photograph, you make it." ~Ansel Adams
Phil