Using a strobe in the woods
LRussoPhoto
Registered Users Posts: 458 Major grins
Trying out using a my sb900 on a little cross country racing. Looking for some c&c please.
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D300s D90
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
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Comments
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
Zero how would raising the iso help me here? The fp is turned on so when you say use high speed sync you mean just raise my shutter speed right? Would I dial the flash power down through the flash ec or would these other things you mention being dialing it down?
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
High speed sync cuts effective flash power on its own so I wouldn't go to HSS and turn down flash EC at the same time. That might be too much. Try one or the other first I suppose.
Thanks for the help.
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
Raising the ISO will increase the light overall. Background as well as foreground. You need to cut your flashpower an equivalent amount. Doing both of these will make the background brighter, and your flash on the close subject less bright. Thus bringing them more into balance.
What you are looking for here is the *ratio* of light background to foreground. Right now, you're looks like a 1:4 or 1:3. A 1:1 would mean your flashed subject and the background would be the same brightness. This gives a very natural looking effect that is nice for portraits, but a little bland for sports. You are looking for something around a 1:2 or 1:1.5. This will pop out the intended subject from the background, but not look overflashed.
Does that help?
perroneford@ptfphoto.com
www.morffed.com
As far as raising the iso goes, I think I understand what you mean. I would raise the iso and if I let in more ambient by either opening the apeture or raising the shutter speed say by 1 full stop I would want to lower the flash power by 1 stop or maybe only 2/3 stop to get the correct ratio your talking about.
Am I making sense?
Nikon 18-105mm,Nikon 18-200mm,Sigma 24-70mm f2.8, Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8
http://LouRusso.SmugMug.com
The last mountain bike race I shot was done with fill flash off-camera on a light stand. It really helped pop the photos without an unnatural in-your-face flash look. I think I even have some BTS shots. I'll try to get that posted.
Edit to add/reiterate: Once you bring up the ambient, you'll have to deal with the sync-speed of your camera to avoid motion blur where you don't want it. That either means shooting angles where you can pan shots at sync speed or slower, OR turning on high-speed/FP sync and coping with the loss of power at higher shutter speeds. With a bright enough ambient and flash for fill, you can't rely on the flash to freeze motion as you were doing in the shots above.