Auto-ISO?
Who here uses the AUTO-ISO on your full-frame camera?
I've been toying with the idea of using auto-ISO, but how reliable is it?
The fact that the new(er)-affordable cameras have excellent high-iso capabilities, D600/700/800, 5D2/3 etc., is it worth while using the auto-iso? I haven't seen any mentions of it on the boards, is why I ask:dunno:D
I've been toying with the idea of using auto-ISO, but how reliable is it?
The fact that the new(er)-affordable cameras have excellent high-iso capabilities, D600/700/800, 5D2/3 etc., is it worth while using the auto-iso? I haven't seen any mentions of it on the boards, is why I ask:dunno:D
-Mike Jin
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
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Supposed to be even MORE fabulous on the 5dIII
Am not impressed with it on the 5dII - I gather that when shooting manual you are limited to 400, which is kind of a waste of time really.
Not sure about the Nikon offerings.
close to shooting in program....not for me.....Have I done it...ues, hated the results.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
Actually, it's da bomb if you need specific aperture and shutter speeds for other reasons (ie you want to blur out a background AND catch frozen motion). It's also fantastic if you're in rapidly changing lighting but need those shutter/ap parameters to stay constant.
I can see I won't be using it on the 5dII, but I love it on the 7d!! My only complaint - which hopefully Canon will address for future bodies - is that there's no exposure comp to override it easily; you'd have to change something else to do that.
Also, I do NOT like it when shooting with a flash - takes too much control away.
"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take" - Wayne Gretzky
I don't like Canon's implementation of the Auto ISO, on the 7D or 5DII bodies. I have no clue as to their newer offerings. As stated, in manual your stuck with ISO 400 if I remember correctly. They also use the matrix of adjusting ISO based on your aperture to 1/125 of the lens in use. This works OK for wide angle lenses, but not so much for longer glass. The 135 f/2 in particular for me, and I'm pretty steady.
My D3s on the other hand lets you set your Max ISO AND lowest shutter speed!
This works great for me when shooting in a very dynamic environment where I need all my concentration on the action and/or composition when shooting quickly, or when the scene EV changes dramatically. With the D3s, for most images I don't worry even up the the native ISO of 12,800. I will limit the Max ISO as needed depending on what I'm shooting and what the images are destined for.
I see that you have a D800 that I'm guessing allows the same. Just decide what your Max ISO that your comfortable with for the particular shots that your taking, then set the minimum shutter speed and off you go!
I use it a lot, but not all the time. Like anything else, I use it when it's advantageous for me.
Oh, BTW... I would highly recommend that you NOT use Auto ISO when using flash, even for my D3s. Just too many variables and you'll constantly be chasing your tail.
Hope that helps!
Shoot a lot,
Have Fun!
I bet that many of you who are considering auto-ISO are doing so because you shoot in fast-changing conditions, conditions where your shutter speed and aperture are already at the edge of the envelope. Heck, I'll sometimes shoot an entire theater / stage performance without touching my aperture ONCE. Just wide open on my f/2.8 zooms for 2-3 thousand images in a row. And yet I'd LOVE the ability to change my ISO without having to hit a button first. On a Canon it's not so bad, since you can get it with your right hand relatively easily, but on a Nikon it's a bit tougher because you gotta find a button with your left hand.
So there's no way I could trust auto exposure in such an extremely dynamic situation such as stage, (pitch-black background, intense spotlight on subject) ...not unless I put all my eggs in one basket and used spot metering VERY carefully. (Which I have done, on occasion, since I shoot Nikon and have spot metering linked to my focus points...)
Anyways, my point is that while auto-ISO can be useful sometimes, it isn't nearly as useful as simply being able to control my ISO full-time would be. It'd be a dream to be able to switch to a menu bank or something where my aperture and ISO controls just completely switch, so I could dial my ISO any time I like.
=Matt=
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If I am in a controlled setting, I will get out of auto ISO. Depends on the situation like the use of any tool.
First shot in a new environment is usually ISO Auto just to find out what the camera thinks. Then I over ride to suit.
Indoors available light, handheld, the auto shot is telling me where the edges of the envelope are. I often then go one or two bumps higher ISO to keep a viable shutter speed. I know that I will be shooting wide open or nearly so, and I use the ISO to keep my shutter speed high enough. I don't want the camera to cost me a shutter speed to gain a lower ISO, which it may do when there is a hint more light.
Outdoors with real light, the auto shot is telling me how much quality I can afford (how low I can run the ISO and still shoot).
I used to have the EV equivalent of perfect pitch; I could look at a scene and call out the exposure settings. That was for film. For digital, I ask the camera for advice that I can take or leave as I see fit.
Except when using flash...then it doesn't work.
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Very handy when you want auto exposure with specific objectives. When shooting sports, I use Aperture Priority and set Auto ISO for the slowest shutter speed I'm willing to use. When there is enough light, the ISO will be low and the shutter speed high. As the light fails, shutter speed will not fall below the minimum I set and ISO will rise as necessary (up to optional max).
Chooka chooka hoo la ley
Looka looka koo la ley
I think you can do that with your Nikon bodies. Custom setting d7 "Show ISO/Easy ISO". But I guess that doesn't help if you want full manual exposure.
Chooka chooka hoo la ley
Looka looka koo la ley
Pentax's higher end cameras have what they call Sv on their mode dial, next to Av and Tv. It does what it sounds like, puts you in ISO-priority mode. You can then program one of the other command dials to aperture, shutter, or EV, IIRC.
Yeah, I know. Pentax.
I assume that would malso ake a big difference in your ISO values?
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
Those exposure modes have an impact on overall exposure, which, in Auto-ISO mode, would impact the ISO value chosen. Whether the overall exposure is correct for the scene depends, of course, on the individual scene.
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
My new camera, the D7000, allows me to change the ISO fairly simply, I just press the ISO button in the back of the camera and use the command wheel to set it at the speed I want.
I do tend to keep the ISO to a slow number, 100, 200 or 400, pushing it to over 2000 if I have the need to take a photo in low light with not flash. My D7000 allows me to do this quickly with no problems.
Just my 2 cents (I can not afford more!)
Joe
Using the correct metering mode would also affect ISO, and I guess that's where it could get a bit more complicated!
I will be testing out the auto-iso, as an assistant/3rd, during a wedding this saturday and post with my findings... I will probably limit one body for available light and another for flash on the hotshoe.
D800
16/2.8, f1.4G primes, f2.8 trio, 105/200 macro, SB900.
It never gets easier, you just get better.
Simple work-around that works great for sports: use Av + Auto-ISO + custom function to set min shutter speed.
EC may not work in M + Auto-ISO, but it does in Av + Auto-ISO.
Most of the (quite legitimate) complaining about Canon's implementation of Auto-ISO isn't from folks using 1D4 or 1Dx.
The only drawback to this setup is if you are switching from shooting the game to "environmental" stuff going on around the game where you don't need the high shutter speed. However, as I understand it, on the 1Dx, you have buttons to let you quickly switch to another config (I shoot a 1D4, not the 1Dx).
Jay
Thx. Honestly I only tried it because I could. I use straight manual now as the fields now I'm shooting on are consistent enough to do so..
Same here on the D7000 and the D600.
The command dial option is not available in manual mode though.
I like to have control of the ISO, and tend to shoot in aperture priority except for low light conditions where you want it to look like low light and I shoot in manual.
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and so lots of colorful dragons, dancing, martial arts and a beauty pageant...
See how well it works with a D3
I had it on 7d, moved to 5d mk 2, missed it a lot. Got it again on the 5D mk 3. On Canon is easy to change to manual Iso nearest on the fly. Auto ISO give you the ability to control speed and apreture which is kind of more impotant in low light and if you have to shoot fast. Those who have discovered the benefits are missing out a lot.
Maybe I'm missing something, but I thought control of ISO through a command dial (while holding the ISO button) was standard on all Nikon bodies. It works on mine in any mode (including Manual).
Are you saying (on D600 and 7000) you have to go into the menus to change ISO when in Manual mode? Or are you talking about 'easy ISO' feature?
Chooka chooka hoo la ley
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The option I was referring to is the "EASY ISO" setting which will allow adjustment with a command dial without having to press the button on the back of the camera. One handed adjustment in otherwords. It works in either shutter or aperture priority.
Sorry for the confusion!
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OK, got it.
Chooka chooka hoo la ley
Looka looka koo la ley
that just does not seem correct... but maybe it is... ... I doubt very seriously if I will be using it again...