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Backpacking the AT: Bearsden to Harpers Ferry, Antietam
For Veteran's Day, my wife and I got together a big group of our friends for the last backpacking trip of 2012 (this is my third backpacking Journeys thread).
Our route consisted of two days of backpacking, followed by visiting Antietam Battlefield on Veteran's Day.
We drove out Friday night to Bearsden Hostel, shuttled a car to the Harpers Ferry visitor's center, and stayed in their campground.
The next morning we stopped at the hostel to fill up on water
and enjoyed the views from the rock ledge directly across the AT from the connector trail. (I think Bearsden Rocks are a bit further south, judging by mileage markers we saw later)
It was a chilly morning, but by the time we had gone a mile, we were all sweating and ready to take off lots of layers.
I was fascinated by the textures we saw along the trail
The section we did before lunch was the tail end of the AT section known as the "rollercoaster", so named for its' undulating profile. It did afford some nice views:
Mostly, however, it was wooded.
Lunch was a welcome respite.
Towards the end of the day I was dragging, and skipped a few more overlook side-paths. The rest of the group came in ahead of me to the AT shelter, and Kula was very excited that I finally showed up!
We all collapsed when we got in. Ten loooong miles.
Another hiker breezed in after we had all been sitting in a stupor for 10 minutes. We checked his map because there was no way that was JUST ten miles, and we wanted to see how far tomorrow's hike would be.
After another 3/4 mile round trip to gather water, we decided we were too exhausted to set up our tents, so we took over the shelter. We offered to the other group to share, but they didn't seem too keen. The morning broke clear and bright. Sore and stiff, we hated it for coming so early.
We ate breakfast and went round again to the spring for water, then set off for the day. Long gentle downhill stretches were a welcome change from the steep ascents and descents of Saturday.
I was in the zone and didn't remember to stop for pictures until we'd practically reached our destination.
Once we got close to Harpers Ferry we started to see civil war earthworks on Loudon Heights. We hiked down next to this... road, we'll call it. It's now a very straight ditch.
We worked our way down Loudon Heights to the bridge on Rt. 340.
And then into town. I caught a bus to the visitor's center before getting into town (very picturesque!) so didn't get any photos. Shuttling the cars and drivers took until well after dark. Some of the group split for home, and those that had Veteran's Day off from work stayed on at the Antietam Creek Campground (we were one of two campsites taken)
The next morning we filtered water from the Potomac, as they'd already winterized the pumps for the season.
We struck camp and headed up to the Battlefield. For those of you who aren't aware, National Parks have free admission on Veteran's Day. I highly encourage visiting your local park or battlefield.
It was a bit blustery and overcast, so we opted for a driving tour after the video.
It's so pretty - it's hard to imagine 23,000 Americans died here in a single day, September 17, 1862.
Clara Barton, founder of the Red Cross, cared for the wounded of both sides in the farmhouses dotted throughout the fields.
The graveyard had plenty of 1860's graves, but of family members who sickened and died during the war.
The Sunken Lane was a holding point for both sides at different times during the day.
Though the visit was sobering, the weather was chilly and damp, it was still early afternoon so we decided to stop by a winery or two on our way home.
Hiddencroft Vineyards
Well, thanks for scrolling through another one of my trips! I hope you've enjoyed the pictures.
Our route consisted of two days of backpacking, followed by visiting Antietam Battlefield on Veteran's Day.
We drove out Friday night to Bearsden Hostel, shuttled a car to the Harpers Ferry visitor's center, and stayed in their campground.
The next morning we stopped at the hostel to fill up on water
and enjoyed the views from the rock ledge directly across the AT from the connector trail. (I think Bearsden Rocks are a bit further south, judging by mileage markers we saw later)
It was a chilly morning, but by the time we had gone a mile, we were all sweating and ready to take off lots of layers.
I was fascinated by the textures we saw along the trail
The section we did before lunch was the tail end of the AT section known as the "rollercoaster", so named for its' undulating profile. It did afford some nice views:
Mostly, however, it was wooded.
Lunch was a welcome respite.
Towards the end of the day I was dragging, and skipped a few more overlook side-paths. The rest of the group came in ahead of me to the AT shelter, and Kula was very excited that I finally showed up!
We all collapsed when we got in. Ten loooong miles.
Another hiker breezed in after we had all been sitting in a stupor for 10 minutes. We checked his map because there was no way that was JUST ten miles, and we wanted to see how far tomorrow's hike would be.
After another 3/4 mile round trip to gather water, we decided we were too exhausted to set up our tents, so we took over the shelter. We offered to the other group to share, but they didn't seem too keen. The morning broke clear and bright. Sore and stiff, we hated it for coming so early.
We ate breakfast and went round again to the spring for water, then set off for the day. Long gentle downhill stretches were a welcome change from the steep ascents and descents of Saturday.
I was in the zone and didn't remember to stop for pictures until we'd practically reached our destination.
Once we got close to Harpers Ferry we started to see civil war earthworks on Loudon Heights. We hiked down next to this... road, we'll call it. It's now a very straight ditch.
We worked our way down Loudon Heights to the bridge on Rt. 340.
And then into town. I caught a bus to the visitor's center before getting into town (very picturesque!) so didn't get any photos. Shuttling the cars and drivers took until well after dark. Some of the group split for home, and those that had Veteran's Day off from work stayed on at the Antietam Creek Campground (we were one of two campsites taken)
The next morning we filtered water from the Potomac, as they'd already winterized the pumps for the season.
We struck camp and headed up to the Battlefield. For those of you who aren't aware, National Parks have free admission on Veteran's Day. I highly encourage visiting your local park or battlefield.
It was a bit blustery and overcast, so we opted for a driving tour after the video.
It's so pretty - it's hard to imagine 23,000 Americans died here in a single day, September 17, 1862.
Clara Barton, founder of the Red Cross, cared for the wounded of both sides in the farmhouses dotted throughout the fields.
The graveyard had plenty of 1860's graves, but of family members who sickened and died during the war.
The Sunken Lane was a holding point for both sides at different times during the day.
Though the visit was sobering, the weather was chilly and damp, it was still early afternoon so we decided to stop by a winery or two on our way home.
Hiddencroft Vineyards
Well, thanks for scrolling through another one of my trips! I hope you've enjoyed the pictures.
________________________________________________
Jake
Jake
0
Comments
In 2005 I visited the region for the first time - I was surprised at how profoundly affected I was when visiting the battlefields... sobering indeed.
Thanks Eric for the kind words about my photos.
I too was quite moved by my first battlefield visit. Standing there in the fields where so many soldiers fell somehow makes it real to me in a way that no documentary can. Antietam is one of the most evocative for me, although I still want to go to Gettysburg. Growing up in the southwest, it's so odd to now be living virtually on top of battlements - there are earthworks around the southeastern portion of D.C. that still remain from that period. I don't think they ever saw much action though.
Jake
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