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Burning out the background

GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
edited February 13, 2013 in Finishing School
I photograph equines a lot and for the most part, they are in a fenced area and so I would like to burn out the background. I'm struggling with making the outline of the horse or whatever subject, look normal or natural. I need suggestions on best techniques or brush settings to do this, especially in areas where there are flying strands of mane and tail. I've seen other equine photographers do this with amazing detail and it is not at all obvious that the background was burned out. Thank you. :scratch

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    SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
    edited January 30, 2013
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    I photograph equines a lot and for the most part, they are in a fenced area and so I would like to burn out the background. I'm struggling with making the outline of the horse or whatever subject, look normal or natural. I need suggestions on best techniques or brush settings to do this, especially in areas where there are flying strands of mane and tail. I've seen other equine photographers do this with amazing detail and it is not at all obvious that the background was burned out. Thank you. headscratch.gif

    Post an image with a link to the original size and let people play with it and provide instructions on how they achieved their results.

    Also list the image processing software you own.

    Sam
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,696 moderator
    edited January 30, 2013
    I think this question really goes to how do you create a mask, to select the horse from the background?

    If you can create a good mask, altering the background is simply a matter of curves, or dodging and burning, or using blending modes to lighten, like Soft Light.

    Sharp edges are the easiest parts to mask, but hair, and dust, can be more difficult, since they require some more effort to create a selection, whether done with the Quick Mask tool, the Quick Selections tool ( a favorite of mine ) , or even the old faithful, the Pen tool. Sometimes you have to start with a channel mask, and then paint in areas of lesser contrast with the Quick Mask tool on the mask itself.

    Like Sam said, show us an image you are interested in with a link to a larger size image so folks can wrestle with it a bit.

    Lightroom 4 will do the masking for you "automagically", but some of us do not think the masking is still as good as can be done in Photoshop by a skilled user. One can "SEE"" the mask in Lightroom by hitting the "O" key when using the Brush tool in LR, - the mask will appear pink, and hitting the "O" a second time removes the pink overlay. Holding down the option key while painting with the Brush tool in Lightroom, will erase areas of the mask not wanted to be affected. This tip can really help one more finely delineate the areas acted upon by the Brush tool in LR. I use this trick fairly often in LR when I do not want to go out to PS for a more finely wrought mask.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited January 30, 2013
    Try this one. Here is one where I did burn out the background, but you can still see evidence in some places. Also, this was an easier one as there is really not a lot of mane flying:IMG_6318k-M.jpg

    This photo is one that I would love to correct and not have obvious "burn-out" spots showing in the mane, whiskers, etc.
    IMG_1172a-M.jpg

    I use Photoshop Elements 11. I love it and I really think it does everything I need it to do . . . maybe not? Thanks, gang.
    Carrie
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited January 30, 2013
    Here's another shot that I love, but the separation between background and subject is baaaaad. :(
    _MG_2038_edited-1%20copy-L.jpg
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    angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    I photograph equines a lot and for the most part, they are in a fenced area and so I would like to burn out the background. I'm struggling with making the outline of the horse or whatever subject, look normal or natural. I need suggestions on best techniques or brush settings to do this, especially in areas where there are flying strands of mane and tail. I've seen other equine photographers do this with amazing detail and it is not at all obvious that the background was burned out. Thank you. headscratch.gif


    Also do you mind posting a LINK to another persons work that you might like to emulate?
    tom wise
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    SamSam Registered Users Posts: 7,419 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    Please post a link to the original untouched image. :D

    Sam
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,696 moderator
    edited January 31, 2013
    When I first read this thread, I interpreted "burned out" backgrounds, to be very white or light grey, not a total black, under exposed, background soup.

    The trick to separate your horses from a totally black background is a bit of rim light, via a reflector or a speed light, that gives a nice bright edge before the blackness starts. This is done via lighting, not image editing. A pair of off camera flashes at about 45 degrees or so, behind the horse, should allow you to capture nice rim lighting at the edge of your horses image. Then the horse will stand out from the darkness behind it much more sharply and neatly.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    pathfinder wrote: »
    When I first read this thread, I interpreted "burned out" backgrounds, to be very white or light grey, not a total black, under exposed, background soup.

    The trick to separate your horses from a totally black background is a bit of rim light, via a reflector or a speed light, that gives a nice bright edge before the blackness starts. This is done via lighting, not image editing. A pair of off camera flashes at about 45 degrees or so, behind the horse, should allow you to capture nice rim lighting at the edge of your horses image. Then the horse will stand out from the darkness behind it much more sharply and neatly.

    That all sounds well and good to better than I was imagining...from what little info given by the Op. Still curious though~
    tom wise
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    Try this one from facebook. This would be a good example of what I'm trying to achieve:
    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=310265989080961&set=t.528877755&type=3&theater
    (I hope it shows up)
    angevin1 wrote: »
    Also do you mind posting a LINK to another persons work that you might like to emulate?
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    I understand what you're getting at, but I typically photograph horses in their natural habitat with lots of movement, so what you're suggesting is almost impossible. But thank you. :)
    pathfinder wrote: »
    When I first read this thread, I interpreted "burned out" backgrounds, to be very white or light grey, not a total black, under exposed, background soup.

    The trick to separate your horses from a totally black background is a bit of rim light, via a reflector or a speed light, that gives a nice bright edge before the blackness starts. This is done via lighting, not image editing. A pair of off camera flashes at about 45 degrees or so, behind the horse, should allow you to capture nice rim lighting at the edge of your horses image. Then the horse will stand out from the darkness behind it much more sharply and neatly.
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited January 31, 2013
    Sorry to give the wrong impression or too little info, what I meant by burnt background was a background in which you would use the burn tool to black out. I didn't mean blown out, as in white or grey, sorry.

    angevin1 wrote: »
    That all sounds well and good to better than I was imagining...from what little info given by the Op. Still curious though~
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    angevin1angevin1 Registered Users Posts: 3,403 Major grins
    edited February 1, 2013
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    (I hope it shows up)
    it doesn't.
    tom wise
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,696 moderator
    edited February 1, 2013
    Joel Grimes does lovely portraits ( of people ) shot with cross lighting that are then cut out and composited on a different background, which is frequently a much darker HDR image. You can see his rim lighting effect in several of the images on this page - http://joelgrimes.com/GalleryMain.asp?GalleryID=40196&AKey=P7FJP8B4

    And a rim lighting effect with a dark background of the fellow with his arms crossed over his chest - http://joelgrimes.com/GalleryMain.asp?GalleryID=74657&AKey=P7FJP8B4

    Is this the kind of seperation you are wanting, Goofbckt? The cross lighting was shot in the studio with the initial exposure for the portrait.

    Joel is quite adept at using Photoshop for compositing his images, and I am not aware of Elements ability to do these kinds of selections as easily. Maybe other Element users will offer their suggestions.
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    PeanoPeano Registered Users Posts: 268 Major grins
    edited February 4, 2013
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    I use Photoshop Elements 11. I love it and I really think it does everything I need it to do . . . maybe not? Thanks, gang.
    Carrie

    You might check your technique in using the refine edge feature. Perhaps also give Topaz Remask a trial (free).
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited February 7, 2013
    Thanks for this, I appreciate it. :)
    Peano wrote: »
    You might check your technique in using the refine edge feature. Perhaps also give Topaz Remask a trial (free).
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    GoofBcktGoofBckt Registered Users Posts: 481 Major grins
    edited February 7, 2013
    I just finally watched this vid and this is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you again so much! clap.gif
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    Thanks for this, I appreciate it. :)
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    pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,696 moderator
    edited February 12, 2013
    Here is a pretty good demonstration of "Taming the Refine Edge Command" to better capture fine hair detail for extraction

    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
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    ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 23,810 moderator
    edited February 13, 2013
    pathfinder wrote: »
    Here is a pretty good demonstration of "Taming the Refine Edge Command" to better capture fine hair detail for extraction

    thumb.gif That's really excellent!
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
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    DonFischerDonFischer Registered Users Posts: 128 Major grins
    edited February 13, 2013
    GoofBckt wrote: »
    Try this one. Here is one where I did burn out the background, but you can still see evidence in some places. Also, this was an easier one as there is really not a lot of mane flying:IMG_6318k-M.jpg

    This photo is one that I would love to correct and not have obvious "burn-out" spots showing in the mane, whiskers, etc.
    IMG_1172a-M.jpg

    I use Photoshop Elements 11. I love it and I really think it does everything I need it to do . . . maybe not? Thanks, gang.
    Carrie

    Look at that little wedge over the foals nose! Wanna know what I think? I'd be glad to get photo's only half as good as those! One of the things I noticed over the years watching these forums is that photographer's seem to concern themselves mostly with taking photo's for other photographer's. When an interest turns to work, I quit!
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