About to pull the trigger...

DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
edited February 13, 2013 in People
So I'm a hair's breadth away from pulling the trigger and buying a sekonic 478dr, the one with the touch screen that can control your pocket wizards. It would be my first light meter and will hopefully remove a lot of the guesswork and 20 pics to dial in the lighting. Someone around here, Charles I think, said something about the mark of a true professional is being able to get the shot on the first frame (forgive me if that is a mid-quote or wrong attribution).

Anyway, anyone going to talk me out of it?
Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com

Comments

  • anonymouscubananonymouscuban Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 4,586 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    My wife gave me a sekonic 358 for my birthday last month. I can honestly say I haven't been more excited and happy with a piece of gear for a long time. I considered one for a long time. Each time, I put it off to buy something different. I think because I read so often that a meter is not needed today. Now that I have one, I couldn't disagree more.

    Sure you can manage without one. And sure there are people out there that can create spectacular work while not using a meter, but I think most people will benefit tremendously from one. It seriously takes so much of the guess work out of lighting and allows for easier reproducible results.
    "I'm not yelling. I'm Cuban. That's how we talk."

    Moderator of the People and Go Figure forums

    My Smug Site
  • BrettDeutschBrettDeutsch Registered Users Posts: 365 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    If you're using strobes and pocket wizards, a light meter is a no-brainer. Not only does it take the guess work out, but it lets you understand your lighting much better.
    Deutsch Photography: Actor & Executive Headshot Photographer | NY Wedding, Mitzvah and Corporate Event Photographer | Family & Child Portrait Studio
  • anonymouscubananonymouscuban Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 4,586 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    BrettDeutsch wrote: »
    If you're using strobes and pocket wizards, a light meter is a no-brainer. Not only does it take the guess work out, but it lets you understand your lighting much better.

    That is the truth. I have a much better understand of lighting and how certain things affect it than I ever have before.
    "I'm not yelling. I'm Cuban. That's how we talk."

    Moderator of the People and Go Figure forums

    My Smug Site
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Sold! I was thinking that might be true. Maybe in 20 years ill be able to look at a scene and know its about f/5.6 like Hobby or McNally, but until then I'm going to try the light meter. Thanks for the input guys!
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    One Sekonic 478dr on it's way! Now I can hardly wait for it.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    You can also fine tune a light meter to your camera. Not all d3's or mkiii's respond exactly the same. You can even plus or minus on the meter.
    Charles
    www.cameraone.biz
  • Bryce WilsonBryce Wilson Registered Users Posts: 1,586 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Congrats Dread...

    Can't imagine doing a studio shoot with strobes and not having a meter.

    I have used a L-358 for about 9 years. It works remotely with my pocket wizzards and it is a dream if you use it and the features it provides.

    One thing you want to check though, as Charles stated, is the readings you get from your meter and how it relates to the camera you are using. It was spot on with my medium format film camera. With my D100 the 358 is about a complete stop off. With my D-700 it is about a half a stop off. Once you figure out the proper adjustments to use with each camera, you are golden.
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Hackbone wrote: »
    You can also fine tune a light meter to your camera. Not all d3's or mkiii's respond exactly the same. You can even plus or minus on the meter.
    Bryce Wilson wrote: »
    Congrats Dread...

    Can't imagine doing a studio shoot with strobes and not having a meter.

    I have used a L-358 for about 9 years. It works remotely with my pocket wizzards and it is a dream if you use it and the features it provides.

    One thing you want to check though, as Charles stated, is the readings you get from your meter and how it relates to the camera you are using. It was spot on with my medium format film camera. With my D100 the 358 is about a complete stop off. With my D-700 it is about a half a stop off. Once you figure out the proper adjustments to use with each camera, you are golden.

    I imagine there are directions on matching the meter to your camera body? Do I need the spot viewfinder to accomplish this?
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • Bryce WilsonBryce Wilson Registered Users Posts: 1,586 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Dreadnote wrote: »
    I imagine there are directions on matching the meter to your camera body? Do I need the spot viewfinder to accomplish this?

    http://www.sekonic.com/Support/FAQs/Calibrating-your-flash-meter.aspx
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Bryce Wilson wrote: »
    http://www.sekonic.com/Support/FAQs/Calibrating-your-flash-meter.aspx

    Hrmm...so assuming I use a target with black white and neutral gray, am I to evaluate the image based on the histogram? Not sure i can see a 1/10 stop shift away from "perfect" on the back of the camera.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • Bryce WilsonBryce Wilson Registered Users Posts: 1,586 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Although the way I went about it some time ago was rather tedious, today, with the tools I have available, I would go about it this way.

    If you have Lightroom, set up so you shoot tethered. When you take the image of the "card" you're going to use, take the image into develop and use the exposure slider to give you the results you feel you should have. The exposure adjustment would give you pretty close to the exact difference between what you want and what the meter is reading. Remember when using a flat subject like a test card, don't have the dome out like you would for a person or 3-D subject.

    Keep in mind, this is a bit subjective. Each person may have a slightly different opinion of what is correct exposure.
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 9, 2013
    Bryce Wilson wrote: »
    Although the way I went about it some time ago was rather tedious, today, with the tools I have available, I would go about it this way.

    If you have Lightroom, set up so you shoot tethered. When you take the image of the "card" you're going to use, take the image into develop and use the exposure slider to give you the results you feel you should have. The exposure adjustment would give you pretty close to the exact difference between what you want and what the meter is reading. Remember when using a flat subject like a test card, don't have the dome out like you would for a person or 3-D subject.

    Keep in mind, this is a bit subjective. Each person may have a slightly different opinion of what is correct exposure.

    Fair enough. Thanks for the pointers. I was thinking along the same lines. I figured that 18% gray should fall dead smack in the middle of the histogram.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 10, 2013
    You guys got me thinking, so I was reading some more about the particular meter I ordered and it turns out that it comes with profiling software. You just shoot a frame of an x-rite target and let the software calculate the dynamic range of your camera body and then upload the profile to the meter. Can store info on several bodies that you can switch back and forth if your are shooting more than one body on a particular shoot.

    Heh, now I'm really excited. wings.gif
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • HackboneHackbone Registered Users Posts: 4,027 Major grins
    edited February 10, 2013
    The article is spot on. I play around a little bit this way. I use the meter to get a reading and put the file in photoshop and look at the reading for the highlights. I want my highlight reading to be about 245 so my highlights are never blown. Then I adjust my meter till I get the reading. The highlight reading is taken from the brightest part of the face.
    Charles
    www.cameraone.biz
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited February 11, 2013
    anonymouscuban wrote: »
    My wife gave me a sekonic 358 for my birthday last month. I can honestly say I haven't been more excited and happy with a piece of gear for a long time. I considered one for a long time. Each time, I put it off to buy something different. I think because I read so often that a meter is not needed today. Now that I have one, I couldn't disagree more.

    Sure you can manage without one. And sure there are people out there that can create spectacular work while not using a meter, but I think most people will benefit tremendously from one. It seriously takes so much of the guess work out of lighting and allows for easier reproducible results.

    can you elaborate? I just set TTL on strobes and then adjust to taste. Takes me maybe 3-4 shots. ne_nau.gif
    D700, D600
    14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
    85 and 50 1.4
    45 PC and sb910 x2
    http://www.danielkimphotography.com
  • anonymouscubananonymouscuban Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 4,586 Major grins
    edited February 11, 2013
    Qarik wrote: »
    can you elaborate? I just set TTL on strobes and then adjust to taste. Takes me maybe 3-4 shots. ne_nau.gif

    Well, what if your strobes don't have TTL? Like with monoblocs?
    "I'm not yelling. I'm Cuban. That's how we talk."

    Moderator of the People and Go Figure forums

    My Smug Site
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 12, 2013
    True that. I keep waiting for Paul C. Buff to announce TTL. Which reminds me. Paul does upgrade firmware from time to time. As it happens, last time I was on his site I noticed I was 2 versions behind on the firmware for my Einstein's. it's probably worth a look to see if your up to date.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
  • QarikQarik Registered Users Posts: 4,959 Major grins
    edited February 12, 2013
    anonymouscuban wrote: »
    Well, what if your strobes don't have TTL? Like with monoblocs?

    ok you got me
    D700, D600
    14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
    85 and 50 1.4
    45 PC and sb910 x2
    http://www.danielkimphotography.com
  • anonymouscubananonymouscuban Registered Users, Retired Mod Posts: 4,586 Major grins
    edited February 12, 2013
    Qarik wrote: »
    ok you got me

    But even with TTL, you're at the mercy of the system. TTL works great but sometimes, the light can be inconsistent from shot to shot and it doesn't work with every setup.
    "I'm not yelling. I'm Cuban. That's how we talk."

    Moderator of the People and Go Figure forums

    My Smug Site
  • DreadnoteDreadnote Registered Users Posts: 634 Major grins
    edited February 13, 2013
    So for what it's worth I ordered a $5 micro SD card with a regular size adaptor included and updated my Einstein to firmware e640 v31 (the latest one) and it fixed the only real gripe I had about the Einsteins which was the fan noise. They are almost completely quiet now until you start to work them then the fan picks up. Of course now I have a new gripe which is that they need a micro SD card to update them instead of a mini usb, but all in all totally awesome.
    Sports, Dance, Portraits, Events... www.jasonhowardking.com
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