Discussion: flattering lighting/poses (Weediner, Hackbone et al - chime in!)

divamum

Interesting shoot last week - the client was both noticeably overweight, and over-55, and admitted from the outset they were having confidence/self-esteem issues about both (and very anxious about the shoot).

They wanted fairly traditional corporate/performer headshot looks and weather confined us to indoors, so using location elements wasn't an option.

Dramatic lighting to add modeling shadows and minimize weight... emphasises skin texture. Nice soft, bright frontal lighting minimizes skin texture, but typically leaves much of the body in light and can add rather than subtract pounds. Which results in directly conflicting approaches - I was a little at a loss to know how to "split the difference". :dunno (fwiw, in the event we had a great time and the client is very happy with the shots, but I feel like *I* could have done better with some specific technical ideas, and thus want to extend my skillset for the future)

In any case I thought it might be an interesting discussion point: how do YOU choose the most flattering lighting for subjects? Most of us are not blessed with camera-perfect clients, so I'm sure discussion can benefit everybody. Additionally... what are YOUR favorite lighting/posing tricks to flatter:

• short necks (particularly where the head might look like it's recessed into the shoulder in the 3/4 pose which usually flatters)
• "anti-aging" (eg minimizing wrinkles and skin texture)
• prominent foreheads
• prominent noses
• other "issues" you've encountered and flattered with angles/lights

The floor is open (include before/afters if you're so inclined - picture worth 1000 words!)

Bryce Wilson

divamum wrote: »

how do YOU choose the most flattering lighting for subjects? Most of us are not blessed with camera-perfect clients, so I'm sure discussion can benefit everybody. Additionally... what are YOUR favorite lighting/posing tricks to flatter:

• short necks (particularly where the head might look like it's recessed into the shoulder in the 3/4 pose which usually flatters)
• "anti-aging" (eg minimizing wrinkles and skin texture)
• prominent foreheads
• prominent noses
• other "issues" you've encountered and flattered with angles/lights

The floor is open (include before/afters if you're so inclined - picture worth 1000 words!)

Wouldn't the lighting and posing approach vary depending on the gender of the subject?

reyvee61

This is a tough situation but I do know that shooting from a slightly elevated angle can be helpful. I've used a step stool and had the subject look up at me.
This seems to stretch the face a bit taught and is also good for hiding necklines.

divamum

Wouldn't the lighting and posing approach vary depending on the gender of the subject?

Sure. So let's talk about both

This is a tough situation but I do know that shooting from a slightly elevated angle can be helpful. I've used a step stool and had the subject look up at me.

Absolutely - stepstool is one of the key pieces of gear in any photoshoot, IMO. Shooting from above is a good starting point, although it can create as well as solve some problems - if you go too far above, you wind up with a whole different set of posing issues...........

divamum

Here's the kind of things I'm talking about - and how helpful that somebody on pinterest (which I don't really follow!) compiled them all! SOme really good stuff here....

http://pinterest.com/hulahoop/pose-me-pretty/

anonymouscuban

Diva... for your particular situation, I would have tried using a large light, like a huge soft box but flagging it to control how much light hit her torso. At least in my head, that makes sense.

divamum

I used the largest modifier I have, which is my 45" Photek. I just couldn't get the light as directional as I wanted to flatter her shape without heavily overemphasising skin texture. Flagging probably would have been a good idea; I need to get some black card to use as needed.

Bryce Wilson

Black sheets, tablecloth, etc. draped over reflector's work just fine...

For gals that have bad skin and wrinkle issues, and for those of us that hate post work, (at least me) I have found that older gals look really good with a modified clamshell scheme (Reflector at chest level pointing up) and a piece of panty hose stretched over the lens held in place with a strong rubber band.

Back before this digital thingy, it worked pretty darn good. Using a good base makeup prior to the rest of the make up helps a bunch too.

Big noses and foreheads, and this is hard for me to say because I hate post work, Portrait Professional is a god send. That piece of software amazes me.

divamum

Modified clamshell was what I used (and we had a GREAT mua, thank goodness - it saves me HOURS of pp!!) My style won't work with that kind of lens diffusion, however; it's great if you're going for a vintage-y, Hollywood look, but I think with the "look" i go for it might be kinda out of place. It certainly works in some contexts, though!!

divamum

anonymouscuban wrote: »

Diva... for your particular situation, I would have tried using a large light, like a huge soft box but flagging it to control how much light hit her torso. At least in my head, that makes sense.

I used the largest modifier I have, which is my 45" Photek.

You know, thinking this through.... I'm wondering if I might not have done better with a smaller source, but placed as close to the face as possible. Very soft on the skin, but with less spill. Just thinking out loud here................

reyvee61

I think those are some excellent pose examples that you shared from Pinterest

bmoreshooter

Lens selection can make a difference also. Wide lenses at close distances will make the subject wider.

anonymouscuban

bmoreshooter wrote: »

Lens selection can make a difference also. Wide lenses at close distances will make the subject wider.

Not necessarily. It all depends on the angle of attack. Not advocating the use of wide angle for portraiture, but sometimes, you can use lens distortion in your favor.

Gary752

I watched a Sue Bryce workshop on Creative Live a while back on Glamour Photography, and I remember her saying to elong the neck you have them push their chin forward and down. Not only does it elong the neck, but it also gives them larger eyes, when shooting at eye level. BTW, she shoots strictly all natural light, with the exception of a reflector. I beleive you can still purchase her workshop on Creative Live. The last time she did a workshop, they discounted all her available workshops from $149.00 to $99.00 if anyone is interested.

GaryB

Hackbone

Noses and turkey necks look better from above. If there is a belly involved get them to lean forward and get the chin up some and a slightly higher camera angle but not too high of an angle. With large bodies try to hide them behind something, pillows, chair back etc.

With bald guys like me or broad foreheads it helps to knock some of the light down with a scrim in front of the light to cut down on the intensity of the light hitting those areas.

Broad faces can be narrowed with side lighing or even a profile look. Can hair be able to frame the face more?

The panty hose is a good trick. I used to burn a cigarette size hole a little off center then burn smaller holes around it with a match head. Great diffusion technique. Just as good as a Hassey Vari whatever it was called lens.

Really wild is Prep H for bags under the eyes. I've not tried that one but have heard alot of others do it.

Bryce Wilson

divamum wrote: »

My style won't work with that kind of lens diffusion, however; it's great if you're going for a vintage-y, Hollywood look, but I think with the "look" i go for it might be kinda out of place. It certainly works in some contexts, though!!

I kind of have to disagree. I still use pantyhose with non vintage high school seniors that have bad skin/acne issues and it saves a whole bunch of healing brush work.

anonymouscuban

Its scares me a little that both Bryce and Chuck have pantyhose so readily available. My legs are too harry for them.

Bryce Wilson

anonymouscuban wrote: »

Its scares me a little that both Bryce and Chuck have pantyhose so readily available. My legs are too harry for them.

How lucky are you? You get the "textured stocking look" without having to pay extra!

divamum

anonymouscuban wrote: »

Its scares me a little that both Bryce and Chuck have pantyhose so readily available. My legs are too harry for them.

I kind of have to disagree. I still use pantyhose with non vintage high school seniors that have bad skin/acne issues and it saves a whole bunch of healing brush work.

Can you post a couple where you used it? I'd love to see. I was imagining it from the work you've posted previously, but maybe I've guessed wrong on where you used it

Really wild is Prep H for bags under the eyes. I've not tried that one but have heard alot of others do it.

It does work. Even better these days, however, are the dedicated anti-puffiness products out there. Modern chemistry has some great tricks!!

Btw, huge Sue Bryce fan here, Gary - love her work. Some GREAT tips I've picked up from her seminars!! That said, I think one needs her *eye* to make some of her techniques work; I'm still finding my way through some of them and not sure I always succeed in execution. Which is why I started this thread! So many different techniques we can use to improve what we deliver to clients

Gary752

I too learned a lot from watching her workshops. I think it is a combination of using natural light, the placement of hands, her resetting the pose when she doesn't get what she is looking for, and how she talks to her clients to make them feel good about themselves. I just watched another workshop done by Roberto Valensuela (sp?) and learned a lot from him as well. I'm beginning to spend more time watching workshops on Creative Live, and buying the ones that I may want to watch again in the future. Another good one to watch is Bambi Cantrell.

GaryB