Best Lenses for Canon 5D3?

photodad1photodad1 Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
edited April 10, 2013 in Cameras
I apologize if this thread is already out there, however, I searched and didn't find one. I will be purchasing the Canon 5D3 very soon and looking for lens suggestions. I shoot high school sports, family portraits and landscapes. I know I need the 70-200mm f2.8 L but I'm not sure between the 24-70mm II or the 16-35mm II?

Comments

  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,127 moderator
    edited March 29, 2013
    I recommend getting the EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM II first. It's good for group portraits and some landscapes. An EF 17-40mm, f4L USM is very nice for vista landscapes, and it's a bargain and true value, if you don't need the f2.8 aperture.

    If you plan to do any individual portraits too I highly recommend the EF 135mm, f2L USM as well. It's got that wonderful "magic" of smooth tonality coupled with blistering sharpness on a FF body. Rent one if you need convincing.

    Edit: I also moved this to the Cameras forum, which is where you'll find lots more lens questions.
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    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • kdogkdog Administrators Posts: 11,681 moderator
    edited March 29, 2013
    For the applications you listed, I don't see the 24-70 making much sense for you. You're paying a huge premium for that F2.8 which, correct me if I'm wrong, you don't have an application for. Instead, you could pick up the 24-105 F4 IS and the 16-35mm for the price of the 24-70 alone. Heck, you'd probably do just fine with the 17-40 F4 for landscapes.

    Personally, I have all three of the lenses you listed. I went with the 16-35 over the 17-40 for night photography and indoor events which are both applications where F2.8 is very useful. And the 24-70 is for indoor events as well. When I shoot shorter in the studio, I usually just pick up the 24-105. It's extremely sharp at the smaller apertures I tend to favor with studio lights. Oh, and you're definitely not going to use F2.8 on group shoots. An F4 lens is more than fast enough.
  • photodad1photodad1 Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
    edited March 29, 2013
    kdog wrote: »
    For the applications you listed, I don't see the 24-70 making much sense for you. You're paying a huge premium for that F2.8 which, correct me if I'm wrong, you don't have an application for. Instead, you could pick up the 24-105 F4 IS and the 16-35mm for the price of the 24-70 alone. Heck, you'd probably do just fine with the 17-40 F4 for landscapes.

    Personally, I have all three of the lenses you listed. I went with the 16-35 over the 17-40 for night photography and indoor events which are both applications where F2.8 is very useful. And the 24-70 is for indoor events as well. When I shoot shorter in the studio, I usually just pick up the 24-105. It's extremely sharp at the smaller apertures I tend to favor with studio lights. Oh, and you're definitely not going to use F2.8 on group shoots. An F4 lens is more than fast enough.

    What lens do you recommend for outdoor family portraits?
  • kdogkdog Administrators Posts: 11,681 moderator
    edited March 30, 2013
    photodad1 wrote: »
    What lens do you recommend for outdoor family portraits?

    I think the 24-105 would be perfect in just about every case. Don't get me wrong, the 24-70 MKII is a killer lens, but wicked expensive and the 24-105 is absolutely sharp enough for portraits especially when stopped down a bit. Plus you get the flexibility of being able to shoot up to 105mm.

    Mind you I'm predicating all this on you saying that you had to choose between the 24-70 OR the 16-35. You can cover the range you need within your budget now, and give up very little.
  • David_S85David_S85 Administrators Posts: 13,245 moderator
    edited March 30, 2013
    To compliment my mkIII, I'm also packing the 16-35 mkII for night photos (awesome light stars with that), a 24-105 - which is I think the most useful walk-around lens they make, and also a 70-200. In my case I use the 70-200 mostly outdoors and chose the f/4 L IS since I didn't need the bulk or the speed of the 2.8.

    You are correct in going with the f/2.8 version of the 70-200 for sports. It's the bees knees for low light. You will love that lens.

    Canon often does package rebates for all these listed here, saving $400-600 more. One is going on now through March 30th in the US.
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  • photodad1photodad1 Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
    edited March 30, 2013
    What prime lens do you recommend for outdoor group and individual portraits?
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,127 moderator
    edited March 30, 2013
    photodad1 wrote: »
    What prime lens do you recommend for outdoor group and individual portraits?

    Those are completely different needs. Typically you need a fairly wide-angle lens for group portraits, while an individual or a 2-shot portrait looks much better with a moderate telephoto (head-shot or head-and-shoulders) or standard/normal focal length (3/4 or full-length).
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  • holzphotoholzphoto Registered Users Posts: 385 Major grins
    edited March 30, 2013
    i'd get the 16-35mm ii, 50 1.4 (or 1.2 L if you can swing it) and 70-200 2.8 L II.

    you could get the 17-40 f/4 L & 70-200 f/4 L IS if you don't need the 2.8 aperture or wont' be shooting in low light or will be using off camera lighting.
  • photodad1photodad1 Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
    edited March 30, 2013
    Thanks everyone!
  • naknak Registered Users Posts: 79 Big grins
    edited April 3, 2013
    I second the idea of the 135mm f/2.0L on a full frame. Great portrait and candid lens. I just returned a 5D3 rental and it makes the 135 even more magical than it is on the 5D2.

    The lens is sharp, handles well, fast to focus, bright, and delivers background blur that is very appealing.

    The hidden benefit of using it over a zoom is that you can't screw up the perspective with a prime. You pick perspective when you mount the lens. Framing with a zoom means that you delegate perspective to whatever you get from where you are standing. With a prime like the 135, it means that you crop if you are a bit too far away, but you keep your chosen perspective. It means stepping back when too close, and that can be impossible and you wind up with really tight images. But the 135 always means I'm shooting the perspective I want when I'm shooting people.
  • Brett1000Brett1000 Registered Users Posts: 819 Major grins
    edited April 5, 2013
    photodad1 wrote: »
    I apologize if this thread is already out there, however, I searched and didn't find one. I will be purchasing the Canon 5D3 very soon and looking for lens suggestions. I shoot high school sports, family portraits and landscapes. I know I need the 70-200mm f2.8 L but I'm not sure between the 24-70mm II or the 16-35mm II?

    the 24-70 2.8 gets my vote but I would also get some primes for portraits
  • bloomphotogbloomphotog Registered Users Posts: 582 Major grins
    edited April 5, 2013
    70-200 2.8, 16-35, and the 50 1.2...that's a great do it all kit, add the 85 1.2 if you can swing it. And yes the 50 1.2 is worth it. The 24-70 a great lens technically, but it's far from the best portrait lens for anything but f/11 studio work. Plan your scenes, anticipate the lens you'll need, and don't rely of the convenience of a 24-70. You'll always get a better shot by putting in the hard work.
  • Soul Gaze PhotographySoul Gaze Photography Registered Users Posts: 263 Major grins
    edited April 6, 2013
    I've had great luck with my 5D3 and 50 1.4 and my 17-40 f4, but find the 17-40 to be a bit soft in comparison and I really miss the low light of the 50 when using it. I've seriously been wanting the 135 f2 for portraits and have found rave reviews online.
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  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited April 8, 2013
    The 135 f2 makes great images on any camera, and is particularly special on FF. Can't say enough good things about it.... I've just added the 70-200 2.8 IS II to my bag (gulp) and that's pretty phenomenal, too - offers similar sharpness to the 135 (seriously), but with added convenience AND IS. I can't say it "replaces" the 135 (that lens is sooo special), but it sure rocks it in its own right.
  • photodad1photodad1 Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
    edited April 8, 2013
    Best 5D3 Lenses
    divamum wrote: »
    The 135 f2 makes great images on any camera, and is particularly special on FF. Can't say enough good things about it.... I've just added the 70-200 2.8 IS II to my bag (gulp) and that's pretty phenomenal, too - offers similar sharpness to the 135 (seriously), but with added convenience AND IS. I can't say it "replaces" the 135 (that lens is sooo special), but it sure rocks it in its own right.

    What lens do you recommend for taking a portrait of four people? How many people does the 135 cover?
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited April 8, 2013
    photodad1 wrote: »
    What lens do you recommend for taking a portrait of four people? How many people does the 135 cover?

    Depends on how far away you stand... :D

    Seriously, it probably is not the right lens for groups, something I typically don't shoot that much. But when I do, I go for the 24-70 (I have a Mk I) thumb.gif
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,127 moderator
    edited April 8, 2013
    divamum wrote: »
    ... But when I do, I go for the 24-70 (I have a Mk I) thumb.gif

    15524779-Ti.gif A standard zoom works nicely for a small group portrait. For a Canon FF body, that would indicate a Canon EF 24-70mm, f2.8L USM or similar. (For a Canon crop 1.6x/APS-C body the EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM is a great choice.)

    For an environmental group portrait you might even go wider (slightly).

    It partly depends on the group arrangement and photographic intent, but the wider end of a standard zoom is generally a good starting point.
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • naknak Registered Users Posts: 79 Big grins
    edited April 9, 2013
    When it got said "depends how far away you stand" the unsaid part is be aware of focal length.

    If by portraiture you mean "shots of people" then any focal length will do. But the term often implies a certain perspective that makes for a more flattering shot. And if that's the case, you want to step back and zoom in. Or step back and use a prime lens.

    The accepted wisdom I've read is the 85-135 is where the magic is. I personally shoot 135mm and love it. I used to shoot at 100mm and it looks way better than 50mm, back when two primes were all I had.

    How much is too much?
    I read once of a portrait done with at 200mm (f/2.8) in a big enough studio of a single person. The photographer wanted the flattened perspective to better flatter the subject. They normally shot with a shorter lens.

    When is it too little?
    I'll shoot 70mm when crowded and as low as 50mm when under duress. It's problem solving time when I find myself having to drop below 50mm.
  • Brett1000Brett1000 Registered Users Posts: 819 Major grins
    edited April 10, 2013
    nak wrote: »
    When it got said "depends how far away you stand" the unsaid part is be aware of focal length.

    If by portraiture you mean "shots of people" then any focal length will do. But the term often implies a certain perspective that makes for a more flattering shot. And if that's the case, you want to step back and zoom in. Or step back and use a prime lens.

    The accepted wisdom I've read is the 85-135 is where the magic is. I personally shoot 135mm and love it. I used to shoot at 100mm and it looks way better than 50mm, back when two primes were all I had.

    How much is too much?
    I read once of a portrait done with at 200mm (f/2.8) in a big enough studio of a single person. The photographer wanted the flattened perspective to better flatter the subject. They normally shot with a shorter lens.

    When is it too little?
    I'll shoot 70mm when crowded and as low as 50mm when under duress. It's problem solving time when I find myself having to drop below 50mm.


    I agree, for shooting people distance is important because of the more flattering perspective created by the longer distances thus the longer focal lengths
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