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Flash recommendation?
photodad1
Registered Users Posts: 566 Major grins
I am looking to purchase a flash system and I'm looking for recommendations. I use a Canon 5DMarkIII and would like to find a setup that is portable and easy to setup and use. I am mainly looking to take portraits.
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"Portable", for me, means that I can transport it with my vehicle. I vary my configuration according to my anticipated needs.
At the very least, I bring 3 - flashes to a portrait session. This can be any combination of monolights or compact flashes that are appropriate to the venue and lighting design of the session.
For instance, a single head-shot or a single head-and-shoulders can be accomplished with compact flashes, indoors or outdoors. (The exact number and placement of flashes and the exact type of modifiers will still vary, however.) An environmental portrait can require much more for lighting (or not), as can a group portrait. For environmental and group lighting I prefer a set of monolights and large modifiers.
Starting out, and considering one and two shot indoor portraits, I think that compact flashes work nicely.
The next consideration is the amount of flash automation you might require. If you want full automation, and integration with the camera body's flash control system, then you need compact flashes with E-TTL II (for a modern Canon system). For this purpose I suggest that Canon 5xx and 6xx series flashes are very nice, as are the Sigma DG Super flashes. From the Canon 580EX forward, and from the Sigma 530 DG Super forward, should work with a modern Canon body and provide full automation in a wireless, optical flash system.
If you decide that manual flash control is all that's required, or even desired, then any number of older compact flashes work nicely. I use old Sunpak 383 Super flashes, Sunpak 611 handle-bracket flashes, Vivitar 285HV and Vivitar 283 flashes, and they all work nicely.
(Of course, many of the Canon and Sigma flashes also have manual flash control, so they can be either automated or manual, making them very versatile.)
If you intend to shoot in more public venues, and with the possibility of other cameras present, then the addition of a radio wireless flash control system is indicated. The exact type of radio slave system depends again on your desire for flash automation or simple trigger.
If you should wish to use a manual flash system, and that's what I often desire to use, then the addition of a flash meter helps tremendously in setting up the flashes. I use an ancient Gossen Luna-Pro F meter for this purpose, which is a null-meter readout and extremely fast to use (once you get used to it).
For flash modifiers I have a number of different types, plus I like using ceilings and walls as possible.
What has become a primary tool is the Photek Softlighter II - 60" (with 8mm removable shaft). I store this with the diffusion panel attached, so it deploys as fast as an umbrella. I use this, more often than not, as the "key" light. With its large, double-diffused light qualities, and easy setup, it's about as perfect a light as one could ask for. It works with both monolight heads and compact flashes, although it's not designed for long use with a modeling light and certainly not for video "hot" light applications. A radio slave is a very good idea with a Softlighter as the flash sleeve prevents most optical slaves from working properly.
I also have a pair of 36" x 36" softboxes to use for the key light, as required or as desired. One of them may also be used as a fill light, if I want a square catch light, for instance. Stacking the softboxes vertically can light a full-length portrait, while using them horizontally gives more wrap-around light and feathering control.
I have numerous other light modifiers, from large and small convertible umbrellas, another smaller softbox, and then a bunch of DIY "scoop" modifiers (specifically for hot-shoe flashes) and bounce cards (again, specific to hot-shoe flashes).
You'll need light stands, and I prefer 10', air-cushioned, black stands. While the 10' size is more than you need for household use, it provides a larger stance, which is more stable for the larger, and heavier, lights and modifiers.
To use hot-shoe flashes on a conventional light stand you need an umbrella bracket. I prefer a bunch of these (which also hold the umbrella/SoftLighter):
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/50067-REG/SP_Studio_Systems_SPBRACKS.html
http://www.adorama.com/LTUSH.html
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
If you are looking for a flash a little cheaper, check out the SRs Stobie 130 at: http://scottrobertla.com/scott-robert-studio/srs-strobie-130/ At $169.00 retail, on sale right now for $139.00 you can't go wrong. Only drawback is these are manual only flashes, not TTL.
Features:
Compact Size
GN128- pro quality power!
Full to 1/64 (7 stops)
Recycle time < 4 sec max with fresh batteries
Scott Robert Flash Guide Calculator- quickly compute flash exposure
Slave mode- will trigger when is “sees” another flash (S1 or S2 if using pre-flash)
NEW FEATURE- PC Sync Input
NEW FEATURE- Improved Button Control
White bounce card
Diffuser filter for wide angle coverage
Includes: mini flash stand, protective pouch
Then you can add his Tiny Trigger set for $295.00 retail, on sale right now for $229.00. Link for these is: http://scottrobertla.com/scott-robert-studio/srs-radio-trigger-system/ With this set you get one transmitter and two receivers, and I believe he states they are good to 300 feet. Also if you order the Tiny Trigger for Cannon, it has focus assist built in. He states on his website that: "Every set includes a free download of Scott Robert’s world renowned “Master Lighting Guide to Flash Photography” ($95 value) which is an interactive PDF with live links, diagrams, audio, video and written text on how to manually control your small portable flash for ultimate control and accuracy. The perfect system for the first time off camera light user or the seasoned professional."
If I remember right, he stated on Creative Live that you can buy 2 of his flashes and a trigger set for less than what one of the newer flashes for Cannon or Nikon costs. Only thing you would need is light stands and modifiers as needed.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams