Hi
Another problem. For some reason I am unable to set an ISO 100 on my 5D Mk11.
It goes from A(automatic) to ISO 200. I have tried different lenses and is the same.
Thanks again,
Bob
I don't own 5D II but when I set my 5D III to Highlight Tone Priority, the lowest ISO I am able to set will be 200.
Almost certainly HTP (Highlight Tone Priority) is set to "On". HTP does help protect the highlights, at the expense of a little extra noise (which is not much at ISO 200).
In bright sun, it may still be preferable to have ISO 100 and "L"/(ISO 50) available.
To turn off HTP:
Menu Button - Orange/Custom Functions (after the Wrenches and before the green Star) - C.Fn II: Image
Option - "II-3: Image Highlight tone priority"
Select - "0: Disable"
Also see page 177 of your User Manual, or in this PDF:
Almost certainly HTP (Highlight Tone Priority) is set to "On". HTP does help protect the highlights, at the expense of a little extra noise (which is not much at ISO 200).
In bright sun, it may still be preferable to have ISO 100 and "L"/(ISO 50) available.
To turn off HTP:
Menu Button - Orange/Custom Functions (after the Wrenches and before the green Star) - C.Fn II: Image
Option - "II-3: Image Highlight tone priority"
Select - "0: Disable"
Also see page 177 of your User Manual, or in this PDF:
Yes Ziggy and PP thanks ever so much for replying. A couple of days ago I did change the HTP and obviously that is causing it. One learns something new every day in this game. I am always indebted to you guys on DGrin.
Cheers
Bob
I always enjoy the variety of opinions on the the web, where there are posters who are certain there is one, and only one, best way to accomplish some specific task task. Like proper exposure.
I have always felt true professionals know many ways to accomplish a task, and many reasons to choose one way over another at any given situation.
Manual, Av, Tv, or even horrors, Tv with Auto ISO, or P. In the end, it is the final image that folks look at, not the technique it was captured with.
Kind of like Art Morris was suggesting in that link, i think.
BOB, did turning off Highlight Tone priority solve your issue?
I always enjoy the variety of opinions on the the web, where there are posters who are certain there is one, and only one, best way to accomplish some specific task task. Like proper exposure.
I have always felt true professionals know many ways to accomplish a task, and many reasons to choose one way over another at any given situation.
Manual, Av, Tv, or even horrors, Tv with Auto ISO, or P. In the end, it is the final image that folks look at, not the technique it was captured with.
Kind of like Art Morris was suggesting in that link, i think.
BOB, did turning off Highlight Tone priority solve your issue?
Yes Pathfinder turning it off solved the problem. The reason I enabled it was because I read it in this months issue of Canon's magazine 'PhotoPlus'.
Thanks again. As I have said many times I do not know how I would have survived this photography hobby which I totally love in my old age if it wasn't for guys like yourself on Dgrin. I have just bought the 100-400L IS for rallying, motocross and wildlife. What an improvement on the Sigma 50-500 in every respect.
I have had the all clear of cancer after removing right kidney and part of right lung so I am pleased about that.
Thanks again.
Bob
Yes Pathfinder turning it off solved the problem. The reason I enabled it was because I read it in this months issue of Canon's magazine 'PhotoPlus'.
Thanks again. As I have said many times I do not know how I would have survived this photography hobby which I totally love in my old age if it wasn't for guys like yourself on Dgrin. I have just bought the 100-400L IS for rallying, motocross and wildlife. What an improvement on the Sigma 50-500 in every respect.
I have had the all clear of cancer after removing right kidney and part of right lung so I am pleased about that.
Thanks again.
Bob
Very glad to hear your health issues have improved. Keep taking photos and posting. Enjoy!!!!
I was unaware of your health issues, but I am happy to hear the positive outlook, Bob.
Put your 100-400 lens to good use! You might even give Tv with Auto ISO a shot too. Or just stick to Manual mode.
Thanks Pathfinder I have the Scottish Rally on Saturday and will certainly give Auto ISO a go. I have always used TV mode and have tried to keep the ISO as low as possible.
Cheers
Bob
Here's my take on using Auto / Program versus manual. It depends. You should know what shooting solution you are looking for...and if Auto / Program or Av, or Tv meets those demands, then that's the best way to go. I only shoot manual when I can't find a solution otherwise.
I read once, and I can't remember who the $10K wedding photogrpaher was, that he sets his camera to P, for professional, and goes with it. And, I'm not saying that he said he never shoots manual.
Knowing your camera and what you want to do with it is the basis for choosing your settings. I shoot a lot of stuff in P or A...D700...and am very pleased with the results. And, I've been shooting DSLR's for the past 9 or 10 years, both as a pro and as a hobbiest. That's not to say that I don't use manual...because I do...there are shooting situations that demand manual, lest your camera try to select a shooting solution in mid gray, when that just won't work, or of course when you're wanting a very shallow depth of field.
Just FYI...
Remember, no one may want you to take pictures, but they all want to see them. Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
IIRC HTP is only available when shooting jpegs. Is this right? I almost always shoot manual and RAW, so I confess to not knowing much about the presets that are available when shooting jpeg. The reason I shoot manual is that most of my scenes (professional sports events) are very contrasty, but have fairly uniform overall light. Thus, any auto mode, no matter what metering I use, tends to jump all over the place. Very occasionally I use aperture priority with either center-weighted average or partial metering mode, when there are distinct areas of shadow and sun on the playing field and I can't switch quickly enough to catch the action. That said, I know some sports shooters that don't shoot manual very often. Whatever works...
My method for keeping highlights from blowing out is to expose so that the brightest highlights are just within range of the sensor. (I use the highlight alert function on the LCD for this.) With RAW files, if I expose such that the highlights are either just under the blowout point, or 1/3 stop above, I am golden. Usually this results in an overall underexposure, which I can bring up in the post so long at it is fairly low ISO (e.g. day games, where highlights are the biggest problem). In night games, I usually will expose so that the brightest points are just above the blowout. Again, with RAW files is is usually possible to recover the highlights. And with the much higher ISO required for night games, I don't want to be pulling up underexposed photos; even with a 1Dx, shadow noise will appear.
The other reason I rarely shoot in any auto mode other than aperture priority is that I want control over DOF. This is essential for almost all of my photos. In sports I usually shoot wide open for isolation and to reduce background clutter. However, when I want large DOF (e.g. catching a player on the field *and* the fans celebrating behind him) I also want to be able to control this.
When I first picked up a camera a few years ago, I asked a pro photog friend for advice. He told me to put the camera in full manual mode and shoot my first 50,000 shots before starting to use any other mode. The idea was to really learn how to tell the camera what image I wanted it to take and not allow it to make the choice. With this exercise behind me, I am just far more comfortable shooting manual; and I know how to program an auto mode (metering, bias, ISO, etc.) so that I can get reasonable exposures most of the time. I think the manual thing just scares some people. I know my first 10K-20K shots were highly variable. But eventually I learned to set the camera--and do so very quickly--and found my comfort zone; so much so that it now feels really strange not to shoot manual.
IIRC HTP is only available when shooting jpegs. Is this right? I almost always shoot manual and RAW, so I confess to not knowing much about the presets that are available when shooting jpeg. The reason I shoot manual is that most of my scenes (professional sports events) are very contrasty, but have fairly uniform overall light. Thus, any auto mode, no matter what metering I use, tends to jump all over the place. Very occasionally I use aperture priority with either center-weighted average or partial metering mode, when there are distinct areas of shadow and sun on the playing field and I can't switch quickly enough to catch the action. That said, I know some sports shooters that don't shoot manual very often. Whatever works...
My method for keeping highlights from blowing out is to expose so that the brightest highlights are just within range of the sensor. (I use the highlight alert function on the LCD for this.) With RAW files, if I expose such that the highlights are either just under the blowout point, or 1/3 stop above, I am golden. Usually this results in an overall underexposure, which I can bring up in the post so long at it is fairly low ISO (e.g. day games, where highlights are the biggest problem). In night games, I usually will expose so that the brightest points are just above the blowout. Again, with RAW files is is usually possible to recover the highlights. And with the much higher ISO required for night games, I don't want to be pulling up underexposed photos; even with a 1Dx, shadow noise will appear.
The other reason I rarely shoot in any auto mode other than aperture priority is that I want control over DOF. This is essential for almost all of my photos. In sports I usually shoot wide open for isolation and to reduce background clutter. However, when I want large DOF (e.g. catching a player on the field *and* the fans celebrating behind him) I also want to be able to control this.
When I first picked up a camera a few years ago, I asked a pro photog friend for advice. He told me to put the camera in full manual mode and shoot my first 50,000 shots before starting to use any other mode. The idea was to really learn how to tell the camera what image I wanted it to take and not allow it to make the choice. With this exercise behind me, I am just far more comfortable shooting manual; and I know how to program an auto mode (metering, bias, ISO, etc.) so that I can get reasonable exposures most of the time. I think the manual thing just scares some people. I know my first 10K-20K shots were highly variable. But eventually I learned to set the camera--and do so very quickly--and found my comfort zone; so much so that it now feels really strange not to shoot manual.
....just my experience...
Very interesting indeed Ed and jhefti. In the past I have found that I get my best rally and motocross shots using TV mode and I usually set the ISO pending the light situation. I have tried Auto ISO and have found sometimes the ISO drops really low resulting in quite under exposed shots. When I have used Manual mode I find each time I move, the settings need to be changed as just half a body turn can change everything either under or over exposed. With AV I have found that I have problems getting a fast shutter speed and If I turn up the ISO to the correct shutter speed noise can appear. I have been using 7D and an F4 70-200L but I am now using 100 - 400L IS.
Thanks again.
Bob
Bob
Hi Bob, I had the identical issue with my 7D, as well as another issue with my 450D. On both occasions I used the Canon technical support via their website. Each issue was resolved for me by return email - very good service, almost as good as asking Dgrin members
I've also heard these apocryphal "P" mode is for professionals. Can't say I believe it
"P" mode as "Professional" is an inside joke.
P-Mode stands for "Program"-Mode, and the mode dates back to the Canon A-1. The Canon AE-1 Program was the model that made the mode popular and that camera was used by enthusiasts and professionals alike.
P-Mode may be suitable for many applications, including professional applications. It's just important to understand the qualities and limitations of P-Mode in "your"* camera, to know whether, and when, the mode is appropriate for "your"* tasks.
*("Your" is used in the ubiquitous sense, and not limited to any individual.)
Comments
best is manual
semi-auto ( av or tv ) is also good , but not auto
/ɯoɔ˙ƃnɯƃnɯs˙ʇlɟsɐq//:dʇʇɥ
No argument re 'auto', but whether 'best' is, in fact best ... each to their own
... as discussed here
http://www.birdphotographers.net/forums/showthread.php/82981-Manual-vs-Av-and-Other-Modes
pp
Flickr
In bright sun, it may still be preferable to have ISO 100 and "L"/(ISO 50) available.
To turn off HTP:
Option - "II-3: Image Highlight tone priority"
Select - "0: Disable"
Also see page 177 of your User Manual, or in this PDF:
http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Owners-Manuals/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-II-Manual.pdf
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Cheers
Bob
Cheers
Bob
I have always felt true professionals know many ways to accomplish a task, and many reasons to choose one way over another at any given situation.
Manual, Av, Tv, or even horrors, Tv with Auto ISO, or P. In the end, it is the final image that folks look at, not the technique it was captured with.
Kind of like Art Morris was suggesting in that link, i think.
BOB, did turning off Highlight Tone priority solve your issue?
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Thanks again. As I have said many times I do not know how I would have survived this photography hobby which I totally love in my old age if it wasn't for guys like yourself on Dgrin. I have just bought the 100-400L IS for rallying, motocross and wildlife. What an improvement on the Sigma 50-500 in every respect.
I have had the all clear of cancer after removing right kidney and part of right lung so I am pleased about that.
Thanks again.
Bob
Put your 100-400 lens to good use! You might even give Tv with Auto ISO a shot too. Or just stick to Manual mode.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Very glad to hear your health issues have improved. Keep taking photos and posting. Enjoy!!!!
Sam
Good news indeed - may you have many more years of photography ahead of you, Bob.
pp
Flickr
Cheers
Bob
Cheers
Bob
Cheers
Bob
I read once, and I can't remember who the $10K wedding photogrpaher was, that he sets his camera to P, for professional, and goes with it. And, I'm not saying that he said he never shoots manual.
Knowing your camera and what you want to do with it is the basis for choosing your settings. I shoot a lot of stuff in P or A...D700...and am very pleased with the results. And, I've been shooting DSLR's for the past 9 or 10 years, both as a pro and as a hobbiest. That's not to say that I don't use manual...because I do...there are shooting situations that demand manual, lest your camera try to select a shooting solution in mid gray, when that just won't work, or of course when you're wanting a very shallow depth of field.
Just FYI...
Educate yourself like you'll live forever and live like you'll die tomorrow.
Ed
My method for keeping highlights from blowing out is to expose so that the brightest highlights are just within range of the sensor. (I use the highlight alert function on the LCD for this.) With RAW files, if I expose such that the highlights are either just under the blowout point, or 1/3 stop above, I am golden. Usually this results in an overall underexposure, which I can bring up in the post so long at it is fairly low ISO (e.g. day games, where highlights are the biggest problem). In night games, I usually will expose so that the brightest points are just above the blowout. Again, with RAW files is is usually possible to recover the highlights. And with the much higher ISO required for night games, I don't want to be pulling up underexposed photos; even with a 1Dx, shadow noise will appear.
The other reason I rarely shoot in any auto mode other than aperture priority is that I want control over DOF. This is essential for almost all of my photos. In sports I usually shoot wide open for isolation and to reduce background clutter. However, when I want large DOF (e.g. catching a player on the field *and* the fans celebrating behind him) I also want to be able to control this.
When I first picked up a camera a few years ago, I asked a pro photog friend for advice. He told me to put the camera in full manual mode and shoot my first 50,000 shots before starting to use any other mode. The idea was to really learn how to tell the camera what image I wanted it to take and not allow it to make the choice. With this exercise behind me, I am just far more comfortable shooting manual; and I know how to program an auto mode (metering, bias, ISO, etc.) so that I can get reasonable exposures most of the time. I think the manual thing just scares some people. I know my first 10K-20K shots were highly variable. But eventually I learned to set the camera--and do so very quickly--and found my comfort zone; so much so that it now feels really strange not to shoot manual.
....just my experience...
Very interesting indeed Ed and jhefti. In the past I have found that I get my best rally and motocross shots using TV mode and I usually set the ISO pending the light situation. I have tried Auto ISO and have found sometimes the ISO drops really low resulting in quite under exposed shots. When I have used Manual mode I find each time I move, the settings need to be changed as just half a body turn can change everything either under or over exposed. With AV I have found that I have problems getting a fast shutter speed and If I turn up the ISO to the correct shutter speed noise can appear. I have been using 7D and an F4 70-200L but I am now using 100 - 400L IS.
Thanks again.
Bob
Bob
Regards, Richard.
I've also heard these apocryphal "P" mode is for professionals. Can't say I believe it
"P" mode as "Professional" is an inside joke.
P-Mode stands for "Program"-Mode, and the mode dates back to the Canon A-1. The Canon AE-1 Program was the model that made the mode popular and that camera was used by enthusiasts and professionals alike.
P-Mode may be suitable for many applications, including professional applications. It's just important to understand the qualities and limitations of P-Mode in "your"* camera, to know whether, and when, the mode is appropriate for "your"* tasks.
*("Your" is used in the ubiquitous sense, and not limited to any individual.)
Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
Thanks Richard and Brett very much appreciated.
Bob