Different B/W conversion
I recently watched a workshop on Creative Live with Yervant, and he shared a different way of converting to B/W in PS. I decided to give it a try, and this was the result. If you have any tips/tricks to further refine it, feel free to share them so I can learn to do it properly. If anyone is interested in the steps used, let me know and I will share them here.
GaryB
GaryB
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
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GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
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So this stuff gets a little tough to figure out. Understanding historgrams and their data helps a ton. However, once you understand the concept of these points on a linear bar, you can create certain curve designs that make the image more dynamic. This resource may help you out a bit too: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/photoshop-curves.htm
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See how dragging that point brings up the highlights on the part of her face that hit the sun? Curves controls exactly what part of the image you want exposed and how you want to expose it.
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Moving the black point upward causes a shift in exposure to the shadow point. See how the curve bends upward? This affected the exposure of light from the black point to the shadow point. It causes a cool effect where the blacks become muted, giving it a filmic look.
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I added another point to show that you can make the details even finer. I don't want the blacks that muted, so adding an extra point between the back point and shadow point allowed me to bring down the shadows a tad while still muting a small portion of blacks closer to the black point.
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So after using curves, I decided that you need to brighten that skin. Looks like this was shot under harsh light (next time shoot this under shade when shooting in harsh conditions). We can take the dodge tool to brighten the midtones in her face. Make sure you duplicate the photo layer, and experiment. I dodged her face at 15% exposure (selected the midtones). Then I burned the shadows around her forhead at 5% (very minimal). As a result, her face stands out much more.
BW Version using Curves:
Color Version after using Curves:
^ Color version needs the highlights toned down, but you get the idea.
you are never going to overcome the weaknesses in the original
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
I agree it could have been shot better. As I mentioned in my post, he must have shot this in harsh sunlight not in shade. There is not much range to work with on the face, but my point was more about tackling the editing part. There are ways to improve the image. I don't see it as a throw-away. But each to one's own right?
Qarik: First, I'm new to Photoshop and I'm trying to learn it. I'm not going to learn PS if I only edit perfectly exposed images. There comes a time when you do mess up, and that one photo is the one that the customer loves, and you have to do your best to try and save it. I don't post here to get ooooh's and aaaah's, I post here because this is supposed to be a community of people willing to help teach the newbies. If you don't want to help teach, that's your prerogative, then just ignore all of my threads and don't respond.
DIVA: See what I mean?
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
Thank you Mike! I appreciate the time you spent in explaining your process. As I said in a post to Qairk, if I edit only perfectly exposed images, I will never learn Photoshop.
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
I actually have to disagree with you here. Keep shooting and editing. Don't edit the same image over and over again. Rather, experiment outside, see what works best to achieve the best edits. This is actually how I learned to shoot better. I realized which images were harder to edit and which ones were easier. As a result, my workflow is a ton faster, and I shoot loads better than I did months ago.
In short, listen to the critiques, don't take negativity to heart, experiment, and edit. You'll learn, and we will be here to guide you through the process.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com
to be frank..still not good at all. is it better than original..yeah I will give you that.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
http://www.danielkimphotography.com