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Ok, received my SRs Strobie 130 flashes, and Tiny Triggers this past week. I called my friend up and asked if I could borrow her daughters for a few shots, and they agreed to sit for one, since it was hot and muggy, so I rushed to set up 2 flashes, and fired off a quick shot. This is what I got. One thing I noticed is I need to get the flashes a bit higher, and I should have maybe added a 3rd for a hair light. I was rushed so I didn't have time to try other options, so when it cools off a bit and can get them out again, I'll try other options, including any tips/suggestions made here.
ISO 100 - f4 - 1/320 - Flash Power was 1/64 @ 3ft
Ok, let me know what I did wrong, and what to do to fix it the next time.
GaryB
ISO 100 - f4 - 1/320 - Flash Power was 1/64 @ 3ft
Ok, let me know what I did wrong, and what to do to fix it the next time.
GaryB
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
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You have already mentioned the shortcomings and your light needs to be encompass all the subjects, or at least the important parts. Too much falloff at the top.
Also, when practicing, find someone that will let you actually practice and not do quick hitters. You don't learn much and don't have anything to study afterwords. If nothing else take stuffed animals and practice on them. Work on different light angles to make the light interesting and dramatic.
Do this:
1) start with one strobe
2) get a shoot through umbrella (say 40 inches)
3) start with one person
4) practice shooting inside
Start by reading everything this guys writes here:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
He will start at the level you need right now.
14-24 24-70 70-200mm (vr2)
85 and 50 1.4
45 PC and sb910 x2
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The young lady in pink, just above her t shirt there are odd cross shadows or is that an article of clothing underneath. If they are shadows you never want cross lighting shadows. That tends to mean both lights are at the same power to create identical patterns......this tends to cancel out lighting effects.
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Maybe. When I exceed synch speed with my nikons using AB's I get a black bar at the bottom, but never at the top and bottom. Curious if it is different with this setup.
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A) get some sort of modifier (umbrella, softbox, PLM)
learn with one light, then through in a kicker/fill, then throw in a rim if you need it/want it
C) practice practice practice
GaryB
“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
www.cameraone.biz
Link to my Smugmug site