My latest Himlayan TimeLpase

tsk1979

Over 600 pics
Tokina 11-16 wide open and MSU deflickr plugin means no flicker!

This time I decided not to shoot JPG, but shoot RAW(12 big compressed NEF). I am glad I did that, because the video has come out a lot crisper.
Watch in full HD for "effect"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUj4MTlOKI4

rhituraj

Beautiful!

kdog

Nice!!

tsk1979

Thanks! It turned out better from my last effort. I guess, always shoot in RAW, even if for a small time lapse. Too bad Nikon has no S-RAW!

bnickeson

Nicely done! And a beautiful part of the world as well.

Here's a tip on timelapses: instead of opening the lens wide open, stop down to what you would normally shoot landscapes at (f/11, f/14, etc.). Then press and hold the DOF preview button to close the aperture. While it is closed, press the lens release button and very slightly turn the lens to disengage the contacts. This will keep the lens aperture closed during the timelapse so there is no aperture flicker. You won't need a deflicker program either as long as you're shooting all manual. It might take a couple tries to find out where the sweet spot is for turning the lens as you disengage the contacts, but once you figure it out it's worth it.

kdog

bnickeson wrote: »

Nicely done! And a beautiful part of the world as well.

Here's a tip on timelapses: instead of opening the lens wide open, stop down to what you would normally shoot landscapes at (f/11, f/14, etc.). Then press and hold the DOF preview button to close the aperture. While it is closed, press the lens release button and very slightly turn the lens to disengage the contacts. This will keep the lens aperture closed during the timelapse so there is no aperture flicker. You won't need a deflicker program either as long as you're shooting all manual. It might take a couple tries to find out where the sweet spot is for turning the lens as you disengage the contacts, but once you figure it out it's worth it.

Sorry to be dense, but I don't understand this. If you're shooting all manual, what's the point of going through all this rigamarole?

tsk1979

kdog wrote: »

Sorry to be dense, but I don't understand this. If you're shooting all manual, what's the point of going through all this rigamarole?

bnickeson wrote: »

Nicely done! And a beautiful part of the world as well.

Here's a tip on timelapses: instead of opening the lens wide open, stop down to what you would normally shoot landscapes at (f/11, f/14, etc.). Then press and hold the DOF preview button to close the aperture. While it is closed, press the lens release button and very slightly turn the lens to disengage the contacts. This will keep the lens aperture closed during the timelapse so there is no aperture flicker. You won't need a deflicker program either as long as you're shooting all manual. It might take a couple tries to find out where the sweet spot is for turning the lens as you disengage the contacts, but once you figure it out it's worth it.

Thanks for the tip. I shot wide open because I wanted to avoid doing this
However, short shutter speed means I got some shutter flicker.

@kdog, flicker is the bane of timelapses, if you look at my first work(on same youtube page), you will see a perceptible flicker in the night sequence(Again, in Himalayas)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9_03AOM1Sc&feature=youtu.be

bnickeson

kdog wrote: »

Sorry to be dense, but I don't understand this. If you're shooting all manual, what's the point of going through all this rigamarole?

There's another source of flicker in timelapses that gets worse as you get smaller apertures. It's called aperture flicker. Basically, at small apertures the opening to let light in can be as small as a millimeter or two. At that size, when the aperture closes down with every actuation, there can be minuscule differences in the radius of aperture once it closes. Those small differences can affect the exposure of the image by up to about 1/3 stop at the smallest apertures. By locking down the aperture into it's closed position, you've basically turned your lens into a manual lens and the aperture is set at one fixed opening size without the possibility of any variations.

This little video can give you an idea of how...uhh...violent...an actuation can be and you can see how the actual aperture size can possibly vary a bit between exposures. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfruya5lNow

kdog

tsk1979 wrote: »

@kdog, flicker is the bane of timelapses, if you look at my first work(on same youtube page), you will see a perceptible flicker in the night sequence(Again, in Himalayas)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9_03AOM1Sc&feature=youtu.be

Yeah, I can see that. Interesting.

I made my first little timelapse a couple of weeks ago. I don't see any flicker in it, but it is shot wide open. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLj-Mg0j0Do

kdog

bnickeson wrote: »

There's another source of flicker in timelapses that gets worse as you get smaller apertures. It's called aperture flicker. Basically, at small apertures the opening to let light in can be as small as a millimeter or two. At that size, when the aperture closes down with every actuation, there can be minuscule differences in the radius of aperture once it closes. Those small differences can affect the exposure of the image by up to about 1/3 stop at the smallest apertures. By locking down the aperture into it's closed position, you've basically turned your lens into a manual lens and the aperture is set at one fixed opening size without the possibility of any variations.

This little video can give you an idea of how...uhh...violent...an actuation can be and you can see how the actual aperture size can possibly vary a bit between exposures. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfruya5lNow

Thanks for the explaination, Brett. Very interesting.

karloznz

Lovely work - I recently attended an exhibition of New Zealand artist who has done a whole series of Tim elapsed work and you are well on your way compared to his work - The music really helps here is a link about the exhibition.

http://www.pataka.org.nz/2013/03/joseph-michael-dark-cloud-white-light/

Earache

tsk1979 wrote: »

Over 600 pics
Tokina 11-16 wide open and MSU deflickr plugin means no flicker!

This time I decided not to shoot JPG, but shoot RAW(12 big compressed NEF). I am glad I did that, because the video has come out a lot crisper.
Watch in full HD for "effect"

kdog wrote: »

I made my first little timelapse a couple of weeks ago. I don't see any flicker in it, but it is shot wide open. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLj-Mg0j0Do

Great work to both of you! Very fun to watch!

tsk1979

Wow Kdog. Thats wonderful.

Thanks everyone for liking it

@Karloz that is quite a nice video. Hope to brush up my video editing skills on the way. I am currently learning how to do pan and zoom in post process.

mstrozewski

Do you have plans to create more and turn it into a short video?

tsk1979

mstrozewski wrote: »

Do you have plans to create more and turn it into a short video?

This is my first quality piece. I intend to shoot some more segments over the coming months, and stitch them together.
However, I am wondering, how to get something like this on the smugmug facebook page