Advice please: NFL Football
I lucked into a ticket to this weekend's Pats-Bucs game, same seats as last year when all I had was my Canon S1-IS. These were the best shots I got from that game.
The difference this year? I'll be bringing my new 20D and 70-200 f/4L, and it's a day game with sun expected (although it will be around 35 degrees).
Any tips would be appreciated, for example I assume I should use AF Servo. I generally shoot in Av, any problems there? The sun should be behind my left shoulder. Should I shoot RAW (I usually do) or just jpeg since I'll have so many shots?
I've been thinking of getting a 1.4x converter, do you think I'll need it? The shots above are probably around 320mm equivalent, and that's what I get with the 200mm on the 20D... I didn't really want to spend $300 on a 1.4x, but I think I could use the reach?
Any problem camera or lens-wise being out in 30 degree weather for 4 hours?
The difference this year? I'll be bringing my new 20D and 70-200 f/4L, and it's a day game with sun expected (although it will be around 35 degrees).
Any tips would be appreciated, for example I assume I should use AF Servo. I generally shoot in Av, any problems there? The sun should be behind my left shoulder. Should I shoot RAW (I usually do) or just jpeg since I'll have so many shots?
I've been thinking of getting a 1.4x converter, do you think I'll need it? The shots above are probably around 320mm equivalent, and that's what I get with the 200mm on the 20D... I didn't really want to spend $300 on a 1.4x, but I think I could use the reach?
Any problem camera or lens-wise being out in 30 degree weather for 4 hours?
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Comments
Reach would be good, but remember, you're already at f/4... you're gonna lose major speed with a TC on that thing, especially the 2x. I use my Sigma 100-300 f/4 with a 1.4x and it is acceptably fast for sports ONLY in perfectly bright light. Even then, I like to move in and just use the 300 as is at f/4.
Save your money on the TC at this point. buy faster glASS first.
How much memory do you have? RAW is always better if you're just playing for yourself. If I'm shooting sports for my own kicks, RAW. If I'm shooting sports for someone else who wants results, JPG.
Anything else?
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That's awesome that they'll let you bring in a lens like that without a press pass.
Reason: University of Alabama (Bryant Denny Stadium) has a rule that you can bring a dSLR into the stadium for the college football games but the lens can't be longer than 6 inches.
shove the 70-200 in your bag and drape the dslr and kitty lens over your neck, they'll never hassle you.
So, AF Servo? Or pre-focus like the pros? Or hyperfocal and leave it alone? Or doesn't it matter much since it will be bright and I'm assuming that I'll be using high zoom and small to mid aperture = large DOF?
I really would want to control my shutter speed more than my DOF
I would only go to Av if I really want to control my DOF. Like sideline shots of individuals where a shallow DOF might be desired.
Most good action shots of football I have seen have a fair amount of DOF, the action around the ball often needs to be in focus.
And Shoot a lot keep the button pressed.
I am jealous of your opportunity,I wish you luck and I will be giving you moral support with my NFL Sunday Ticket.
Tim
I would either shoot Av mode (wide-open) and aim for shutter speeds of 1/500 or more. Adjust ISO accordingly. Or shoot in full manual mode -- aim at the grass and choose f/4, an ISO and a shutter speed to get a correct exposure. I do not advocate shooting football in Tv mode. If this was a night game then shooting M is the only alternative, but in daylight you have the option of Av mode.
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QB always makes great shoots...for passes and hand offs, dont for get the celebration dance, and I always shoot in manual mode
If you use a TC it will slow the focus down I cant remeber if I used my TC for football...I think I did but I sort of had to be smarter about what shots I intended to get (no moving the camera at last minute thinking I would get the shot in focus).
Tip: keep your batteries in a pocket close to your body.....it will help them not drain so fast, or maybe a hand warmer, but I dont really know if that would be a good idea or not. I have shot in the cold before, but not the way cold so I dont really know.
And if I dont make anysense blame the finals.
Even though you don't know what a DOF preview button does
It will be a blast, if I get anything close to what you and Bill post I'll be very happy. And I can't help but do better than last year at the very least!
* Big glass (300 - no extender)
* Fast glass (2.8)
* Shoot w/wide open aperature
* No extender (slows autofocus)
* AI Servo
* Manual
* Adjust ISO to keep the shutter speed up
* Check histogram regularly to control your highlights and adjust to changing light conditions.
* 8 frames per second.
I think that's it. I know the pros do things differently. In particular, they don't use the fast frame mode. But they're not shooting from the stands and their anticipation better.
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Anyone shooting from the stands Pro or not should be proud and happy to get shots as good as yours, they are crisp, clear and contain all the action needed for the play.
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I'll be limited to 200mm (320 equivalent) and f/4, but it will be sunny for most of the game so maybe that will help. Now when you say "to keep your shutter speed up", what range are you looking for? Bill had said 1/500 or more, do you guys agree?
Joe, I'm no pro but do you have any suggestions other than what has already been mentioned?
uh..those are the Bills.
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Thanks!
I try to get it as fast as I can, because I want to freeze the action. Several times over focal length, if I can. As the light dims, this gets harder to achieve.
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If you are using the f/4 lens I would not use a T/C or you will end up with slow focusing and blurry images for sure.
I would also do the best you can to keep the shutter speed up, with an f/4 from that distance depth of field is going to be a lost cause anyway, it would be better to have sharp images.
I would also use A/F or Continuos focus mode to keep track of the action as it changes.
As far as Pre-Focus, I have only Pre-Focused cameras that were mounted and triggered via remote.
You can always rent a 400 f/2.8 ... wrap it and dress it up like a baby in a blanket and try to sneak it in.... (Just Kidding).
Good luck,
Joe
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Hmmmmm.
:jose
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