Want to replace my 8 YO Rebel XT

dickdick Registered Users Posts: 36 Big grins
edited October 11, 2013 in Cameras
All:

This camera has been a trusty friend for the first 8 years with my kids. I purchased this camera specifically for taking pictures of the kids.

Details:

Body: Rebel XT
Lens: Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens Review
Use: Family photos, kids sports, shots of scenery both close and distant while hiking and riding in the Rockies.

The XT owes me nothing and would like to replace with a camera of similar capabilities. I am sure the technology has moved a long way in the last 8 years so I welcome feedback on new features and functions that keep me in the same price range.

The 24-85 is a great lens as well but I would like to have a little more ability to capture shots of the kids out on the field so I need to be able to zoom a bit more. I still want to have the ability to shoot family photos indoors for special events and holidays.

Also, considering the Canon Loyalty Program to replace my equipment at a reasonable price.

My questions:

1.) Which body?
2.) Do I keep the current lens and get a new one or trade in the old lens on a new one through the CLP?
3.) Any tips for using the CLP?

Thanks,

Rich
_______________________
Rich

Comments

  • gbeargbear Registered Users Posts: 59 Big grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    What are you dissatisfied with in your recent shots ? What improvements would you like to see in your results? The only thing I can see you may want is a longer zoom.

    I would suggest you start by reviewing a few hundred shots made in the past 6 months. Keep written notes. Look at a shot "do I like this ? If I don't like it, why ? How could it be improved ? Do I want to improve it?

    You give no real information about why you want a new camera. (I have no idea what "The XT owes me nothing" means, and no idea of what the statement means to you.)

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with simply wanting a new camera because you want one. I have spent thousands and thousands over the years on just that. Some of them have delighted me; some have been a waste of money.

    If you have SPECIFIC changes in your results from analyzing images; that is one thing.

    If you just want a new camera - follow your heart and buy what you would like to try ! !

    Over the years I have personally found that I like at least a 4/3 size sensor, do not like to use indoor flash, and for me a MUST is a fully flexible LCD - like the ones Canon uses. I do not really care about movie functions at all. For me a slow multiple image capability is useful and important - I am mostly interested in expressions, and have found faces change very, very quickly, so I have established a pattern of having each shutter press expose at least 3 images. If the camera is designed for sports two bad things happen - (1) the shots are so close together in time that there is not enough variation in expression, and (2) many cameras make a terrible clatter that is off-putting to the subject.

    I prefer 3 to 5 images per shutter press; 1/2 second apart is perfect for me, and quiet operation is very important to me.

    I have described what I am happy with not to suggest it for you, but to demonstrate that a serious analysis of why and what I shoot, and what I am happy with for a result, has determined the equipment I use. FYi - as you may guess, I shoot a lot of images. (I am not young and when I used a Leica I used to buy TriX and Pan X in 100 foot rolls and load my own, usually developing 4 36 exp rolls at a time. Now in the happy days of digital and photoshop things are about the same. If I attend, say, a relative's wedding, I would expect to see at least 200 shutter presses with at least 500 images. These cull down - I would show maybe 20 to 30 images. I do not keep culled images and never discuss how many images I shoot. *incidentally, at weddings I do not cover what the pro shoots - instead I will make at least 10 shots of the pro in action (especially of him explaining to the subjects what he wants them to do. - so far, pros have been invariably fascinated by these - as well as pleased I do not compete with them for their money shots.*

    Once again, I do not have a suggestion that you should shoot like me. I simply describe what I am doing in my private shooting to demonstrate how I believe the purchase of a personal camera is determined by a painstaking and time-consuming analysis of what you want and the results you personally enjoy.

    Good luck and best wishes Bill Wilson (gbear).
  • puzzledpaulpuzzledpaul Registered Users Posts: 1,621 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    gbear wrote: »
    ... // ...

    If you just want a new camera - follow your heart and buy what you would like to try ! !

    ... // ...

    If the camera is designed for sports two bad things happen - (1) the shots are so close together in time that there is not enough variation in expression

    ... // ...

    No argument re pointers raised in original post concerning shot analysis / cam choice etc ... just a couple of comments.

    Following your heart is one thing, but having the funds to allow said journey is another :)

    I've recently bought another cam body (used) as the one I normally use has issues in the cold / winter (long story :) ).
    I eventually bought another of the same type because of the 3 'suitable' others available (without switching brand) ... 2 would've cost me approx 3x and one 6x what I paid.

    Whilst being aware of the benefits newer technology (esp higher iso + AF system performance) offer, cost - for many mortals / amateurs, like me - is invariably an issue.

    Re 2nd - some bodies have medium and high shutter rate settings + 'quieter' single shot modes ... but I suspect you already know this.


    Re op's query - if happy / no problems with current setup ... consider getting a (decent) longer (maybe 70 -200?) lens...

    pp
  • divamumdivamum Registered Users Posts: 9,021 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    The XT was my first dSLR. Yes, it is DEFINITELY time for you to upgrade - while I appreciate the boys trying to guide you to "why", having used that camera I can say without any worries that you don't really need a "why" - it's simply time. Any more modern body is going to be a drastic improvement in sensor, auto-focus accuracy/speed AND bells and whistles (this is not an anti-Rebel statement, btw - I kept my xsi as a backup and would use it with confidence if I ever needed to).

    Budget?

    You mention kids sports - that right there is probably going to push you to the xxD series, although the current Rebels offer a lot of bang for buck. But sports really tax a camera's autofocus and processing speed, and you may find your keeper rate is a lot better with one of the higher-end models. The 70d is the newest kid on the block (and getting rave reviews), but there are other options, depending on how much cash you have to spend on the purchase.

    CLP is definitely worth exploring if the model you want is offered at enough of a discount to make it worth your while. I've had multiple refurbs (purchased through Adorama rather than the Canon store, but same thing) and been 100% happy with all of them.

    If all of your sporting events are outside and you can live with F4, you could check out the 70-200L F4 (with or without IS): one of Canon's best lens bargains, IMO, with absolutely fantastic quality for a very reasonable price. I picked mine up used for under $500; I had to sell it to buy the 2.8 version, and STILL regret not having it in the bag. Small, light, stupidly sharp, and with the "sparkle" of Canon's finest L lenses.

    The 17-55is E-FS lens (for crop sensor cameras only), or the 24-105is might be possibiliites for a standard zoom - both well regarded. The L is actually available cheaper than the 17-55 these days, largely because there were a lot of bundle deals last year, and people bought the package and then sell the lens. If you look on the quality used market, you can often find the 24-105L for ~$700 (the 17-55 is usually around 900). If those are out of your price range, the Tamron 17-50 is a VERY capable lens, and extremely affordable ($400 new; $300 on the used market). One of my favorite lenses ever (and better than any of the 24-70's I've used on full frame - have NO IDEA why it seems so much easier to produce a really good 17-55 than 24-70, but my - anecdotal - experience is that it must be!)

    I'm sure Ziggy and others will chime in with more recommendations. Budget will really determine what folks suggest, so an indicator of how much you have to spend will improve the answers you get :)
  • jmphotocraftjmphotocraft Registered Users Posts: 2,987 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    What Diva said. I think a lot of people have "selective memory" about old camera bodies, and they think they are being sage by suggesting the camera doesn't matter. It does matter. Assuming you do your job, a better camera/lens will net you more keepers. Nothing is more frustrating than when you nail a shot, but your camera doesn't.

    Youth sports is my favorite subject, and I am darn good at it. Do everything you can to reach for the 70-200 f/4L. Sharpness, color, contrast, more speed and better backgrounds than a cheap f/5.6 lens, it has it all. You don't need IS for sports, but the optics in the IS version are very slightly better. If the IS version is out of the question, don't worry about it. A 70-200 can't be your only lens, but it is worth it. You need that 200mm for sports. If you can only afford one lens, there is the 18-200, but you will need to convince yourself it is "good enough".
    -Jack

    An "accurate" reproduction of a scene and a good photograph are often two different things.
  • NikonsandVstromsNikonsandVstroms Registered Users Posts: 990 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    Downside to the Tamron 17-50 is it's slow AF (compared to new USM lenses) but will be a great lens for landscapes/indoors.

    You can probably get away with a cheap-er zoom for sports shots, and depending how high that ranks in your needs that might be the route to take because a great telephoto zoom isn't cheap. But a good one that will do the job can be, especially if you go a generation or 2 back and find something with good optics but the AF wont be as good as standard (AF is important for sports but it might be a huge difference in price). If you want to go this route I'm sure a Canon shooter can chime in with the best bargain EOS tele zooms.

    And +1 on all the people saying upgrade, when I was in college I taught a ton of people how to use the XT so I have a bunch of hours on that camera and it'll be night and day with that VS a modern DSLR.
  • rainbowrainbow Registered Users Posts: 2,765 Major grins
    edited October 7, 2013
    One other thing of note: When upgrading, your file sizes will be much larger, so make sure your computer has the space and processing power to handle it without frustrating you.
  • dickdick Registered Users Posts: 36 Big grins
    edited October 8, 2013
    gbear wrote: »
    What are you dissatisfied with in your recent shots ? What improvements would you like to see in your results? The only thing I can see you may want is a longer zoom.

    Primarily a longer zoom is what I am looking for with my new setup
    gbear wrote: »
    I would suggest you start by reviewing a few hundred shots made in the past 6 months. Keep written notes. Look at a shot "do I like this ? If I don't like it, why ? How could it be improved ? Do I want to improve it?

    I am a type "A" but this may a bit more investment than I need for this hobby. (On the other hand, I spend countless hours working on the motorcycles to add lights and electronic gizmos so I understand the thought process)
    gbear wrote: »
    You give no real information about why you want a new camera. (I have no idea what "The XT owes me nothing" means, and no idea of what the statement means to you.)

    I am starting to get the occasional error message, the auto focus is not always functioning, and I have developed am intermittent dark spot on some shots. After getting a quote for cleaning and maybe repair from Canon I think it may be wise to invest in a new kit instead of pouring money into dated technology to eek out a couple more years.

    gbear wrote: »
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with simply wanting a new camera because you want one. I have spent thousands and thousands over the years on just that. Some of them have delighted me; some have been a waste of money.

    If you have SPECIFIC changes in your results from analyzing images; that is one thing.

    If you just want a new camera - follow your heart and buy what you would like to try ! !

    Over the years I have personally found that I like at least a 4/3 size sensor, do not like to use indoor flash, and for me a MUST is a fully flexible LCD - like the ones Canon uses. I do not really care about movie functions at all. For me a slow multiple image capability is useful and important - I am mostly interested in expressions, and have found faces change very, very quickly, so I have established a pattern of having each shutter press expose at least 3 images. If the camera is designed for sports two bad things happen - (1) the shots are so close together in time that there is not enough variation in expression, and (2) many cameras make a terrible clatter that is off-putting to the subject.

    Good point - I have a video camera for motion pictures so I really want a good solid camera with or without video. If video puts me in a more expensive camera I can certainly live without that.

    gbear wrote: »
    I prefer 3 to 5 images per shutter press; 1/2 second apart is perfect for me, and quiet operation is very important to me.

    I have described what I am happy with not to suggest it for you, but to demonstrate that a serious analysis of why and what I shoot, and what I am happy with for a result, has determined the equipment I use. FYi - as you may guess, I shoot a lot of images. (I am not young and when I used a Leica I used to buy TriX and Pan X in 100 foot rolls and load my own, usually developing 4 36 exp rolls at a time. Now in the happy days of digital and photoshop things are about the same. If I attend, say, a relative's wedding, I would expect to see at least 200 shutter presses with at least 500 images. These cull down - I would show maybe 20 to 30 images. I do not keep culled images and never discuss how many images I shoot. *incidentally, at weddings I do not cover what the pro shoots - instead I will make at least 10 shots of the pro in action (especially of him explaining to the subjects what he wants them to do. - so far, pros have been invariably fascinated by these - as well as pleased I do not compete with them for their money shots.*

    Once again, I do not have a suggestion that you should shoot like me. I simply describe what I am doing in my private shooting to demonstrate how I believe the purchase of a personal camera is determined by a painstaking and time-consuming analysis of what you want and the results you personally enjoy.

    Good luck and best wishes Bill Wilson (gbear).

    I appreciate the feedback and some of the ideas you presented are making me think a bit more about my options and wants.

    Cheers,

    Rich
    _______________________
    Rich
  • ziggy53ziggy53 Super Moderators Posts: 24,127 moderator
    edited October 8, 2013
    I still have 3 - XT/350D bodies, one of which is converted to IR (and the only one I use on a regular basis. The others I keep just to occasionally use for a tertiary backup.) While they have given me a lot of satisfaction I can certainly understand wanting to upgrade.

    I also have the Canon EF 24-85mm, f3.5-f4.5 USM. While the AF is fast and accurate, and color and contrast are very good and a step up from the "kit" lenses, sharpness and acuity prevent it from being a real contender on a modern, high pixel-count body.

    The Canon dRebel T3i/600D and T4i/650D both have an imager similar to that in the 60D and 7D bodies "and" they have an autofocus section similar to that in the 40D through 60D, with 9 - AF points that are all cross-type (compared to the earlier dRebels with 9 - AF points, but only the center being cross-type). This allows for selecting an outer AF point with cross-type AF accuracy and speed. I don't think that you'll find new copies of these bodies, but KEH.com generally has some very nice used copies which come with a 6 - month warranty.

    The 60D is a step up from the dRebel bodies in construction and it has a cast aluminum and machined chassis (vs stamped/formed/welded stainless sheet in the dRebel), with a brighter pentaprism (vs pentamirror in the dRebels) and a better shutter mechanism (more durable with greater actuations rating, 1/250th x-sync and 1/8000th setting.) You may still find the 60D new, but the 70D is shipping so supplies are very limited. KEH also generally has some used 60D bodies as well.

    The dRebel T5i/700D and the more advanced 70D are current, but more expensive and have more features dedicated to video and the new STM/stepper-motor lenses.

    I too have the Canon EF-S 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM and I easily recommend this lens for its sharpness, even wide open, very fast and accurate focus and very usable stabilization, which helps a lot in low-light and indoor situations.

    Couple a dRebel T3i/600D or T4i/650D body, or alternately a 60D body, with the 17-55mm, f2.8 IS USM zoom, and you have an excellent, single lens solution for many family and event situations. Later you can add a super-wide zoom for vista landscapes, and a tele-zoom for extra reach, and then maybe a fast aperture, short-telephoto prime for portraiture (like the EF 100mm, f2), and you'll have an excellent kit, capable of professional results.

    Do remember to add an external flash and flash modifier for best results indoors and for fill light outdoors. An external flash which has an AF assist light is a tremendous benefit in improving AF speed and accuracy indoors.

    I do recommend the Phase One, CaptureOne Pro for Canon RAW image processing, as I find the RAW color rendering more accurate, with better noise signature and noise reduction for high-ISO images, compared to Adobe ACR (used in Lightroom and Photoshop.)
    ziggy53
    Moderator of the Cameras and Accessories forums
  • Brett1000Brett1000 Registered Users Posts: 819 Major grins
    edited October 11, 2013
    dick wrote: »
    All:

    This camera has been a trusty friend for the first 8 years with my kids. I purchased this camera specifically for taking pictures of the kids.

    Details:

    Body: Rebel XT
    Lens: Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens Review
    Use: Family photos, kids sports, shots of scenery both close and distant while hiking and riding in the Rockies.

    The XT owes me nothing and would like to replace with a camera of similar capabilities. I am sure the technology has moved a long way in the last 8 years so I welcome feedback on new features and functions that keep me in the same price range.

    The 24-85 is a great lens as well but I would like to have a little more ability to capture shots of the kids out on the field so I need to be able to zoom a bit more. I still want to have the ability to shoot family photos indoors for special events and holidays.

    Also, considering the Canon Loyalty Program to replace my equipment at a reasonable price.

    My questions:

    1.) Which body?
    2.) Do I keep the current lens and get a new one or trade in the old lens on a new one through the CLP?
    3.) Any tips for using the CLP?

    Thanks,

    Rich

    Give Canon a call and see what's available on the CLP program but lately the CLP prices have been the same as refurbished. Depending on the budget check out the new 70D or the older 60D - around $550 refurbished which leaves more room in the budget for lens upgrade
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