Need some advice...I have been thinking
Having just been a photomacrographer since this summer with my FZ-20/Nikon 6T, I have learned an immense amount, both in the field and on this forum. I have posted many images that I thought were pretty good (visit my webpage to get examples). However, as I am sure affects all of us, I want to do better.
When I compare my photographs with some of the best around on the web, I notice that mine don’t seem to have the level of detail as those taken with a DSLR, analagous to my pics being a normal TV signal and the DSLR’s being HDTV. I can see the hairs on the flies on my pics, but I cannot the different shading on the hairs, so to speak, as I can see on some of the pics taken with a DSLR. Thus purchasing a DSLR such as the Canon 20d/100mm 2.8 is an option.
However, I have done much research on the web and have come across these points that muddy up my purchasing waters.
1) There are other fantastic pics taken by P&S cameras( Mark Plonsky for one). Perhaps it is not so much the camera but more the artist/experience?
2) I have only been using the built-in flash and not external. Perhaps a flash bracket/external flash will help my FZ-20 immensely?
3) I have read that the P&S cameras give more perceived DOF indirectly due to the smaller sensor array. However, will I be able to reproduce the FZ-20’s DOF just by going with lower aperture sizes? i.e., could I just use f22 on a DSLR to be able to get the DOF that I get with f8 on the FZ-20? Losing DOF is a major concern with me if moving to a DSLR.
4) I also don’t use a tripod with my FZ-20. Are most of the best macro shots (as far as detail, not composition) taken with a tripod? I do have a monopod, but don’t use it as much as I should.
5) When I take my macro shots, I am usually hiking through heavy brush, thus don’t much like the idea of a heavy camera/external flash/longer lens as well as a tripod. Those of you that have a DSLR, are these valid concerns, or do you just get used to the added “cumbersomeness”?
Considering that will be doing almost exclusively macro shooting, what would I gain by going the DSLR route? Will I in fact, once the learning curve is over, see better detail/crispness in my shots? Will my DOF I am used to diminish? …will I still be able to feed my kids (I can see how all the DSLR gadgets can get addicting)?
In other words, besides greater lens/lighting options for a DSLR, would I see see a greater image quality if I moved up to a DSLR once I got over the learning curve?
Ken Nelson
Panasonic FZ-30
http://www.perceptions.smugmug.com/gallery/717675
When I compare my photographs with some of the best around on the web, I notice that mine don’t seem to have the level of detail as those taken with a DSLR, analagous to my pics being a normal TV signal and the DSLR’s being HDTV. I can see the hairs on the flies on my pics, but I cannot the different shading on the hairs, so to speak, as I can see on some of the pics taken with a DSLR. Thus purchasing a DSLR such as the Canon 20d/100mm 2.8 is an option.
However, I have done much research on the web and have come across these points that muddy up my purchasing waters.
1) There are other fantastic pics taken by P&S cameras( Mark Plonsky for one). Perhaps it is not so much the camera but more the artist/experience?
2) I have only been using the built-in flash and not external. Perhaps a flash bracket/external flash will help my FZ-20 immensely?
3) I have read that the P&S cameras give more perceived DOF indirectly due to the smaller sensor array. However, will I be able to reproduce the FZ-20’s DOF just by going with lower aperture sizes? i.e., could I just use f22 on a DSLR to be able to get the DOF that I get with f8 on the FZ-20? Losing DOF is a major concern with me if moving to a DSLR.
4) I also don’t use a tripod with my FZ-20. Are most of the best macro shots (as far as detail, not composition) taken with a tripod? I do have a monopod, but don’t use it as much as I should.
5) When I take my macro shots, I am usually hiking through heavy brush, thus don’t much like the idea of a heavy camera/external flash/longer lens as well as a tripod. Those of you that have a DSLR, are these valid concerns, or do you just get used to the added “cumbersomeness”?
Considering that will be doing almost exclusively macro shooting, what would I gain by going the DSLR route? Will I in fact, once the learning curve is over, see better detail/crispness in my shots? Will my DOF I am used to diminish? …will I still be able to feed my kids (I can see how all the DSLR gadgets can get addicting)?
In other words, besides greater lens/lighting options for a DSLR, would I see see a greater image quality if I moved up to a DSLR once I got over the learning curve?
Ken Nelson
Panasonic FZ-30
http://www.perceptions.smugmug.com/gallery/717675
0
Comments
The lens changing will drive you crazy if you are like me but all worth it for the vast improvement on control. I could never use my old 35mm SLR this well as by the time i got the results back ..i had forgotten what i did.
tristansphotography.com (motorsports)
Canon 20D | 10-22 | 17-85 IS | 50/1.4 | 70-300 IS | 100/2.8 macro
Sony F717 | Hoya R72
I'm guessing you are looking for a small depth of field, so that only a small part of the object is in focus. To do this, you don't want to go to f22. You want a very wide aperture, or low f-stop number.
Even without being a macro guy, I know that the best shots use a tripod, period. With regard to lugging all that equipment around, I'd say that if you want to take the best pictures, you have to pay the price.
In my opinion, buying a tripond and a DSLR with a macro lens like a 105mm f/2.5 would help you a lot. Hope it helps.
http://cusac.smugmug.com
J: Hi Ken. You indeed have a great macro gallery! Looks like you are a fast learner, and have the basics down pat (focus, angles, exposure, etc).
H: And you're right, it's your equipment that's failing you. Assuming that all of the camera/software settings are set up to produce and maintain the highest quality files (max resolution, max quality, lightest compression, etc), then you need to make a camera change.
J: If you stick with an integrated lens camera (aka Point & Shoot), then I'd suggest one that doesn't have as large a focal length range. There are simply too many design compromises made with the "ultra-zoom" lenses to maintain the highest quality image across the entire focal length, and they'll just start to produce mush (especially at the longer end). You're much better off with a lens that goes out to about 200mm (equiv), then add a stronger diopter lens in front.
H: I use a Sony F717 for my macros (goes out to 190mm equiv), and several different close-up lenses. If you visit my galleries, I indicate which lens was used for each photo:
http://www.pbase.com/jekyll_and_hyde/galleries
J: I also have been shooting macros with my Sony H1 (432mm equiv), but notice that the detail is not quite as good as the 717's images' (due primarily to the lens being too long).
H: Another thing I noticed while over at your gallery is that the FZ20 produces a lot of noise (relative to other cameras @ a particular ISO). Some of the artifacts apparent on the website images are no doubt due to JPEG compression, but the noise is definitely contributing to the image degradation.
J: I think that cameras such as the Sony F717, F828, and Mark Plonsky's Canon G-series are much better suited to close up photography. You might give one a try if your budget is tight. Depending upon your intended display method, these cameras may prove adequate (I've seen Mark's prints firsthand from his G-series, and they are beautiful. My own enlarge to 13x19 with no problem)
H: As to DSLR recommendations, I'll leave that to the knowledgeable experts here. Just keep in mind that no matter what system you go with, there'll be compromises. The main reason I haven't switched to a DSLR is that I would lose the LCD display. Coupled with the swivel lens of the 717, it allows me to shoot from angles (and with a spontaneity) impossible with either an OVF or EVF (even if equipped with an angle finder).
J: Each person's interests, methods, and workflow are different, so just be sure to match your equipment to yours.
H: An external flash would help immensely. More important though is to diffuse the flash. Adding a diffuser to your on-camera flash would provide a marked improvement to your images. I built some homemade mini softboxes for both my on-camera flash(es) and for my Sunpak 383. They're cheap and fairly easy to build.
For the Sunpak 383:
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=7868
For the built-in flash on my H1:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=14294263
J: There are also several diffusers commercially available. Lumiquest makes a screen to diffuse the onboard flash, as well as their great bouncers/softboxes for off-camera flashes. The LightSphere II would be another option.
H: Just be sure not to let any light from the diffuser hit the front element of lens directly, or else you'll get light scatter, and lose contrast and color.
J: This could be a good thing, or a bad thing depending upon your tastes and style. Unfortunately, shooting at f22 will drop your light levels considerably, and upping your ISO...
H: If you're using flash only, with no ambient light fill, then there would be no problem using f22 or smaller to maintain the deep DOF.
J: I don't use a tripod either (since I shoot primarily with flash). I'm sure you realize that resorting to using one will take away a lot of the photo ops you've encountered thus far (in regards to insect photography). It will also limit the angles you can shoot from.
H: I do use a tripod most of the time when I'm shooting at macro ratios beyond 3x though. Maintaining focus at those magnifications is incredibly hard when shooting handheld. The choice is up to you though. If your stlye evolves to shooting in ambient light only, then a tripod will help quite a bit (using one won't improve your current shooting though, since flash is the predominant light source, and there is little ghosting evident in your pics).
J: ! You'll probably still be able to keep the kids, but they may not be able to go to college!!
H: Seriously though, a 20D with the 100mm f2.8 Macro and some extension tubes (along with an inexpensive external manual flash) would get you going.
J: Hope this helps some (from another macro addict).
H: You are certainly holding up your end of the bargain. Good luck in your quest for better equipment.
J&H